WoodsWagon

Same issue I have, I had seen that you got quite excited when it seemed to go away when you made a VSS, but kept my mouth shut because mine does it and I have a stock VSS hooked up to it. The only code mine throws is a Code 51, which is for the neutral position switch. It only shows up when you drive the car with the green connectors together, it isn't a stored code. I have a feeling that the lack of a neutral switch has a lot to do with the occasional stalling when coming up to a stop. The computer doesn't realize that it has to fuel the engine after being in coast/decel mode with no fuel when you push in the clutch. This causes the engine to stall out before the computer can open up the IAC and resume fuel injection. Or so goes my theory, and i see the car nearly stall and recover last minute all the time which seems to support it. The bogging when going past 3/4 throttle under 2krpms is annoying, though truthfully you woudn't get much more acceleration if the throttle was all the way open. I consider it a bit dangerous because I doubt that another driver would remember to lead it up with the throttle in an emergency situation. They would stomp, and it would sputter, and they would be creamed by the oncoming semi. I havent hooked up a clutch switch to the ECU to act as a neutral switch for the only reason that it's a PITA to fit in under that dash and there's allways a lot of mud/dirt on the floor. If you would be so kind as to do it on your Brat, I would be very interested in the results.

Do a compression test, or to check for a burned exhaust valve, hold your finger in front of the exhaust pipe loosely and see if it tends to be sucked in when it missfires.

This being from the guy who was all about tossing emmision controls in the woods and threatening to sue us for picking on him. He also confessed to running a honda off the road with one of his old V8 cars "harmlessly" The guy's a menace. He's loosing it. I'll keep an eye on the news for a maineiac going off.

I'd start a 4.5k, then let them talk you down. Foresters seem to go for more than legacys for some reason.

I finally got around to glueing the permanent magnets back into my winch motor and put it back together. All the magnets had been blown off the inside of the motor and one cracked in half when I rear-ended a ford ranger.:-\ I JB-welded the broken magnet back into one in the vice, and used 2-ton epoxy to glue all the magnets back into the motor housing. Took a bit of figuring to place the N's and S's in the right place, but it works mint again. It's like when you were little and lost your blankie, you just didn't feel secure untill you got it back. Now I'll have to take my car down through the back vally to the pit.

It's been bouncing around, and no one put the effort in to fix it right. Apparently it ran, but badly, and a shop had said that the timing belt had jumped a tooth. It's not that hard to do a T-belt on these, but it ended up going to the junkyard just because people were lazy. Sad thing was a friend of mine had talked to the guy about it and expressed interest in buying it about a week before it went to the J/Y. Probably could have picked it up for $150. Body's not bad, bit of rust in spots, but really clean for a 23 year old car.It's got dents in the rockers and the really rare fiberglass sill with gold turbo lettering got crunched on the passenger side by the loader. Oil pans have holes in them as does the gas tank from draining it.

95 heads fit fine. The roller rockers are nice. The 94 manifold will bolt right up to the head, they're the same. My last engine was running with a 92 head on one side and a 95 head on the other, and it ran great untill it burned another valve. The y-pipe is the same too. Here's a pic of a 95 head:

I've banana'd my drivers side radius rod that bad before. Replaced it with a used one in about 3/4's of an hour, and left the control arm as it was. Didn't seem to affect the control arm, the bushing took up most of the twist. You need a 19mm wrench, a 17mm wrench, and a 17mm socket w/ ratchet. It's easy to fix.

SPFI EA82 8,000 rpm's. You could hear the valves starting to float. Did it a few times. Still runs fine.

Total cost after everything was said and done with a breakdown?

Ok, so I did a bit of research. The car in the junkyard is an Automatic 50th anniversary edition which makes it one of *drumroll* 1,223 ever made. It has everything down to the gold key and the embrodiered floormats. Makes me feel kinda bad raping it for parts, and it only has 77k miles on it.

Nope, they're both cast iron blocks. I checked with a magnet. The R200 in the rear ISN'T a LSD. I was pissed. Other than the lsd, the zx was loaded. "bodysonic" seats, accelerometer, compass, auto climate control, electronically variable ride control, electric adjustable seat side bolsters, mirror T-tops, digi-dash... the list goes on. The alternator looks like it needs to be on the other side of the engine for the turbo vs the non-turbo engine, so I'll need the turbo brackets for that stuff. Plus the turbo engine mount is further forward on the block, so I'll need that. Oh, and the engine code is an VG30(ET)

So an 84 nissan 300zx turbo shows up in the junkyard. Sports car's aren't really my thing, and it would cost $300 to get the whole car, which I don't want. So I'm thinking to grab all the turbo manifolds, piping, and electricals and waiting for a nice SE-V6 hardbody pickup to come along. The 3l motor in the ZX and in the hardbody is the same basic block. It looks like the turbo would fit between the motor and the steering shaft in the pickup (I had one to compare to right next to it). The firewall would have to be modified to fit it in the pickup, but nothing the sledgehammer and a welder couldn't fix. The drivers side engine mount would definiately have to be moved. Can you even imagine the fun you could have with a turbo pickup? No weight on the back end, so endless burnouts, and 4wd for when you want to haul arse.

Easiest way to check is to pop off the distributor cap, note the position of the rotor, crank the car, and see if the rotor moved. If it hasn't, it's T-belt. You can take off the drivers side cover pretty easy to see what happened to the belt if that's what it is. PO's can lie about when they had maintenence done.

Done. The spedometer peggs, and I mean peggs on the odometer reset post at 7,900rpm's with the 3at spfi. You can hear the valves beginning to float at 8, a flutter here and there. This is on a dead cold engine/tranny. So 130 would be around 7,800 rpm. Doubt that the engine would breathe well enough to keep pulling there. This is my parts wagon shown here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79050 by the way, so I've got no worrys about damaging it. Engine seems to be in good shape, my old spfi engine floated closer to 7k. *edit* Read the bold print! There's you're answer for the free-speed! And it doesn't overheat, it's not really doing any work. Think for a moment before posting about how it will overheat. There's fan's mounted on the radiator that are powered by the car's battery anyway.

The main point is to fit big brakes inside the wheels. But konrad want's to run the 14" steelies in winter, so the dual pot outback brakes are a no go.

I'll be doing the allignment next week down at school. The car really handles good. I was worried that the caster might be afected by running the longer struts, but the steering wheel returns on it's own quick after throwing the car around. With the big tires the car holds hard corners a lot better, though you can still get it to understeer if you're laying into it. We got lucky with the used struts, they're in pretty good shape. The gas has escaped, but the damping action is still strong. The price was unbeatable too, direct trade for some used aluminum wheels. The main reason for the outback struts was the higher spring seat. The stock legacy spring seat rubbed on the inside edge of the tires in the back, so to run those rims without spacers it had to be lifted. It's not going offroad with those 45 series tires on. With the stock tires back on, it will have gained a couple inches of ground clearance in the center.

It's a 1989 GL touring wagon, which I told you about a page ago. Don't post "collect" arguing over how you came up with what you did. Russ got it right first. I'll switch the left front to the right front and finnish that one off soon.

Personally, i'd say samuri. You'd be amazed at the amount of stuff you can throw in the back if you take the rear seat out. A samuri can be beat, hard, plowed into rivers, over downed trees, rocks, be flipped, jumped, and hammered and drive away unscathed. However, the flipside is that they suck on the highway. The 1.3l does great in the woods, it's plenty peppy to shove the truck wherever you need it. At least the EFI one we had was. Watch your front tires, if you have big ones, and you jam them in the wheel well, the front birfield joints will blow. Oh, and the stock radio antenna tears off easily.

There is the bracket that the linkage pivots on. The two bolts that hold the rubber mount to the back of the main shifter plate also hold a bracket for that rubber bushing in the D/R handle. You need this bracket, as the loyale will not have it.

EJ22 swaps into an EJ18 pretty easy. Austin did that to his wagon right? That will help a bit on the hills. More than the cold air intake will. But untill then, pull off the intake silencer inside the pasenger side fender. It's a 10mm nut that holds it on, doesn't take much to pull it out of there. At the least the extra intake noise gives the butt-dyno horsepower figures a boost.

See the gas tank sticking out from where the spare tire goes? That's what it's running off of. The fuel pump is tucked in below it, and the return hose goes into the filler neck of the gas can. Works awesome once we got the pump to prime.

It's a GL. The fuel pump had sprung a leak, the rear brake lines had sprung leaks, and the whole car is a rustbucket. I bought it for $75, mostly because it has a clean title. It hasn't run in at least 3 years. Konrad and I rigged up a fuel system for it using a 2gallon can mounted under the hood and a spare SPFI fuel pump, and the engine runs great. Didn't even overheat while we were finishing off the tires. We put nails in the rear brake fittings to plug them off, so it has front brakes. I'll be dissasembling the car in the next few days. Konrad noticed sparks coming out of the muffler, turned out we cremated a mouse in it's nest. You have to put a car out in style. No sense just driving it to where you strip it and tearing it apart. You have to make some memories with the car first.

Russ is right, EA82 wagon. SPFI, 3at. It's on a steel plate, it just dug holes when it was straight dirt, and the piece of plywood broke and was just burning the edges of the tires. Steel wore nice and even.

That would be 99% tire smoke, 1% burning mouse nest, and 0% engine smoke.