WoodsWagon

Pull harder on the lever, sometimes it can be stiff. Worst case, you can take off the lower dash panel and try lubricating the linkage. But yeah, pull harder. Use both hands kneeling next to the car, if it hasn't been used in years it can be jammed good.

The ruber boot at the throttle end of the cable can break apart and get up into where the cable sits on the pully, holding it tighter and around 3k rpms's. So check your rubber at the end of the cable, and make sure the throttle pully is unobstructed.

That's with a 3at too... I'm working on getting a video up of one of the other burns, but the photo gallery is being a PITA. It say's it's uploaded, but the video doesn't appear and my available space doesn't decrese. It's an AVI file, 2.9mb.

The heater resistor is bolted to the side of the airduct's behind the fan motor. If you take off the underdash panel on the passenger side, you will see the fan motor sticking out from the air box. The resistor is the black cube held on with a couple of small screws and one of the 3 fan motor bolts that is behind the fan motor. It has a bundle of wires coming out of it.

I don't think the DOHC heads will fit that well between the EA81 framerails. SOHC heads yes...

As nipper said, and as I have said and been attacked for in the past, if you can only afford 2 new tires, put them on the same side of the car. This way the front and rear differentials take up the difference and the center diff (which is the one that burns up) sees nothing. The only exception to this with subaru AWD is if you have a rear LSD(limited slip differential). In that case, you have to buy tires in sets of 4, no iffs, ands or buts. Makes a good case for rotating your tires every 6k miles.

And has a thread about it already, posted quite a while ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69536

Nearly every subaru I saw in England had a dual range AWD transmission. It is normal AWD, with a viscous center differential, but it has a hi/lo range selector lever next to the handbrake. It's a setup that's been used from 1990-at least 2005 was the newest impresa wagon I saw with it. The ones out of the 1.8 turbo EA18 cars are worthless, we've already goth them here.

and tore off the exhaust and toppled the carrier bearing over on the driveshalft. It was on dirt too, I shudder to think what rock would have done. I was making my way up a hill with pits dug into it to stop vehicles from driving through (it's a Class 6 road, legaly I can drive darn near anything through it, it's still a public way, just unmaintained.), and my spotter wasn't really looking at my clearances too well, so as I dropped into one of the pits, I high-centered. I folded the carrier bearing over far enough that it's outer ring was jammed into the bolts that hold the rear driveshaft on. Made interesting noises that I could hear over the brutally loud exhaust. We used a prybar I had to bend the carrier back far enough, and wired the exhaust up out of the way. So now I think I should tie the carrier bearing blocks in with the auto tranny crossmember to give them some rigidity. Crushing that thing over was way too easy. Anyone else done this before?

Not quite true...this is a 74 wagon with one. They are pretty distinctive compressors, so they're easy to spot in the junkyard. Your stock compressor will burn out and seize with much heavy use on just straigt air unless you feed it oil pretty often.

You also have a rear O2 sensor, which the computer uses to monitor the cat's efficiency. If the front one's gone bad, it's likely that the rear O2 sensor wasn't far behind. I'd replace it before dropping the big bucks on the cat. Don't condemn a cat just based on the the computer's codes. The 420 code can get thrown by a bunch of issues, from a leak at the header gaskets to bad o2 sensors or a bad cat.

If your only thinking of giving it another try, don't bother. Get a light truck with a decent frame under it and be happy with that. A truck will take more abuse and stupidity than a car and will probably be just as reliable. I'm not saying don't buy a subaru, but if you're going in to it with a bad attitude of being burned once, I woudn't buy one.

The 5spd DR tranny will hold a good amount of power, just don't abuse it when it's RWD or it will blow. I'd say that the EA 5spd and the EJ 5spd are comparable strength wise HOWEVER, the clutch is not. EA clutches suck, the pressure plate is weak and there is no aftermarket support. On top of that, having to use FWD all the time will lead to a lot of tire smokage, axle snapping and wheel hop. Which is fun at first but gets old soon. Put an EJ AWD 5spd in with the EJ22 turbo. You'll be much happier than the automatic, and loosing the low range is a small price to pay for a street car. You could put in a EJ tranny with the 4.11 rear diff and make up for it a bit that way. Look for a regular EJ standard tranny, you don't need one out of a turbo legacy. Make sure you get the flywheel with the tranny.

I did this to my mom's 98 outback which has severe piston slap on cyl 4, right under the knock sensor. It helped a lot, but when I pulled a knock sensor off of another block I had and put it on hers in the origional location, it worked properly. No code, better millage, and none of the pulling timing BS it was doing with the old knock sensor. So piston slap doesn't set off the knock sensor unless the sensor is BAD. If you need to relocate it, it's because the sensor is bad. Use relocation only as a method to get by untill you replace the sensor with a new one. Without the sensor located on the block in the proper place, you have NO KNOCK PROTECTION so run at least 89 octane and don't haul trailers. I could hear the engine audibly detonating at 1/2 throttle on an uphill with an empty U-haul trailer behind it with the relocated knock sensor. Replaced it with a good sensor, no more detonation even at full throttle. Threw in a bottle of octane boost just to be safe.

There's still paint on that A-bar. This is rust: You see hardly any early 90's subarus on the roads now.

adresses? It looks to be at least a 5 hour drive for me to hunts pond. Don't know where the PAP's are, but interested.

If it's a SPFI, unplug it. The engine will run like poo, but the PCM's limp mode works well enough to keep it running. If it's plugged in, it won't go into limp mode and it won't run.

The drop blocks are separtate blocks about 3/4" thick cast bits. You need the longer bolts to go with them if you put them in, plus the steering coupler.

Check the 1" rubber hose that hooks to the Idle air control motor from under the main air intake pipe. If that's off, it will start but not run, and it's under the main intake hose so it's easy to forget.

I was using a foam roller, not a brush, and the paint was thin enough that the bubbles left by the roller popped on their own within a couple minutes. You wetsand with 600, then higher, you'll see that the water beads up on the paint when it's cured, then lies flat on it when it's sanded properly. Here's a good thread with pictures: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57181

This is a 95 legacy brighton wagon with ONLY Outback struts in it. The springs are stock legacy springs, and all other parts of the suspension are stock legacy. The tires and wheels are stock size Outback stuff. The wagon next to it is a stock 98 outback. Note the difference in clearance between the crossmembers, that's because the Outback has the crossmember drop blocks to keep the axle angles good.

Plugs can sometimes be hard to remove if the ring gasket/washer gets stuck to the head and the plug has to thread out through it. Did you look at each of the old plugs to see if the washer was on each of them? If you left the washers behind, you could have double-stacked them when you put the new plugs in. If the washers are stuck, a long thin flat head screwdriver is the tool to use. Slip it in next to the washer and give it a twist, the washer will usually pop off.

On bigger trucks I have had the differential lock up as pieces get stuck in the ring gear. Subi diffs seem to jam and pop rather than lock solid, so as it goes there will be rough going for a bit, like WHAM cruch ping ping ping crunch bang style noises, but it should clear up after a bit. If you really don't care, just keep your foot in it as it starts to go. That way the power should help completely shred it. What you don't want is a half- shredded diff. They suck.

Yeah, there's nothing there in the way of strength for rollover protection. Just enough metal to trap you in the cab and sardine can you as it does roll. We have a rollbar that's going on soon. It needs some cleanup, a bit of welding and chopping, but it should help. It sits on the bedrails, so it's no better a rollbar than the average CJ rollbar, but it should help support the cab some. The key is to not roll. It's a classic, and getting rare, so rolling one is a waste. I put a duraspark II ignition into it, wow what a difference. Before, when you started it up, and it took some doing, you would have to wait untill it was warmed up to even free-rev it. Now, you start it and it's good to go driving right off the bat. Cool thing about V8's is how low you can lug them without stalling.

My 86 GL 3-door had no computor. It was a carb, and it wasn't a feedback one. The bracket for the computer was there, but the wiring wasn't. It ran great.