WoodsWagon

I've seen the 3AT referenced as a M-41 tranny too, for what that's worth.

It was mostly the timing in my case. Someone had set it with the connectors dissconnected, and I had checked it with them disconnected. With them connected, the timing was way off, I dialed it back in, and it ran way better. Still a sackless POS, but at least it had some throttle response. The EJ22 running on 3cyls, with the dead cyl with a burned valve, had almost exactly the same performance as the EA82 did once I got it running good. Same top speed, same slow pulling through the gears to get it going, everything.

I've been playing around with a 71 Ford bronco, converted it from a wagon to a half-cab pickup body. Slowly turning from beat ranch truck to sweet looking rig. Out on the ranch in Wyoming. The old V8 in 4lo can really push the truck.

Forest green rustoleum, 50/50 with mineral spirits, put on with foam roller. bronco hood, 3 layers of paint removed with 6" wire wheel on a grinder, primed with rattle can paint, then wetsanded. First coat layed on, wetsanded, 2 more coats put on. It needs at least one more coat to get the last imperfections out, but it works well if you're patient. After: And yes, you can see the garage door reflecting in the paint, and no it hasn't been polished.

Pic of it being taken apart for un-rusty crossmember: Duct tape is to seal sunroof gasket. Anyone know if they make replacements?

Yeah, but when the squirrel's wheel is seized, it doesn't make much power anymore.

Put a good oil pressure gauge on it, the pumps are a problem, and when they let go, the engine's bearings bite it and a replacement engine is hard to come by.

Talk to the people who use them in airplanes. Only real use for a dry sump in a subaru engine. You're not going to get a subaru to corner or accelerate hard enough to need a dry sump. OH, and EA engines aren't worth dumping money into. They're plentiful and cheap, so when you blow it, swap another in. Talk to WJM about dumping money into them... He started flirting with the EJ's after the 3rd or 4th EA blew.

The body really isn't in that bad shape, so i'm thinking of "reasigning" the vin plates off of my junk wagon that I have a clear title to. The next question is whether to keep the EA82T or go for an EJ25? I kinda like the idea of a turbo... But I really don't have any love for the EA82 series engines, they're fine and all, but GUTLESS. I have a spare wiring harness out of a legacy in the shed, and a bunch of junk EJ25's that would work with a bore job, plus an AWD EJ tranny sitting in the yard. I'd have to use the turbo engine to get it home from WY, but then...

Governor gear fully apple cored, it spins without engaging the tranny gear at all. The tranny gear is a bit bunged up, but I think it's still servicable. It's a job that could have been done in half an hour, but they pulled the tranny and then lost the TC over a cheap and easy part. That's what happens when you don't diagnose things first.

new to me that is, 1986 turbo wagon, auto tranny sitting in the back, missing the last section of the exhaust, but otherwise complete. And hardly any rust, just one soft spot. Turbo is in good shape, but the torque converter is missing, so no go... No LSD either, that was a pity. But it does have a rear sway bar, rear disks, sunroof, trip computer, height adjustable seats, rear door release, digi-dash and rear headrests. It used to have air suspension, but someone put regular struts in at some point. Brand new tires on the H-alloys. Literaly brand new, 0 miles. They were put on in anticipation of the car being fixed, and it never was. The price was right though, $160 cash. The tranny wouldn't shift up, so I assume the governor gear is apple cored. Pity they lost the TC, and the input shaft has surface rust on it, other wise I'd drive it home. For now it will donate it's rear crossmember to my wagon and overwinter in Wyoming.

whoo, last time I saw one that bad, my hoses had ripped of the radiator. That was because of a disagreement between the oil pan and a rock. Done any rollback clutchdumps?

How is this non-soob offroading? I used my Soob to drag the damn yota out of the first hole and out of the woods, which is a lot more challenging than a plain old trailride. Some lady called the cops on us for towing it down the street. Didn't like the looks of the whole situation. Lucky I was moving by then and they didn't run across us. I know the NewIpswich police chief knows who I am and my wagon, and he doesn't really like me. Found out from the police notes: "reported illegal towing on river road"

The salvage yards out here are being dinks, they won't let me scout the yard, and they say they'll take a look and never do. WTF? how is that a way to make money? Soo... there's a 89 T-wagon for sale in Saratoga, about 3 hours away. For the $160 I'm tempted to take the cummins and the trailer down and pick it up, strip it and junk it, but I'm not sure i'll have the will to cut the good chunks out of the body for patching mine. Says it has a good T-motor in it, bad tranny.

Most of the HVAC guys have a portable recovery system. Look one of the local guys up in the phone book, give them a call, and they'll probably suck it out for free. I'm friends with a HVAC tech down the street, and he has the setup for sucking R12 and R134A out of cars, plus he has a pair of vicegrips with a needle in them for recovering out of sealed systems. He said that back in the old days, he used to dump 4-500 lb commercial R12 systems to the atmosphere "we used to just crack a fitting and stand back, course if we'd known how much it would be worth now, we wouda saved it." So in the scheme of things you dumping the small amount isn't the worst thing in the world, but if you can avoid it, it's the right thing to do. CFC's are really stable molecules, and they act as a catalyst, so it's not like each bit you dump destroys only and equal amount. Saying that it's all gonna end up there anyway so you might as well dump it now is a cop out. It's kinda the same mentality of dumping your used oil out in the back yard, hey it came from the ground to start with, why not return it.

Dogbone is on and tight, it's an EJ22 one Tranny mounts are good and on tight, I forget what I grabbed them off of but they are still bonded on both surfaces Engine mounts are good, and not crooked like some other's EJ22 ones are. Radius rod bushings are a mix of the best ones I had, so some cracking but mostly good. Right hand side has some washers in with the bushings to push that wheel forward to correct for the bent body at the radius rod mount. Rods are straight. Allignment is within stock spec's, I've checked it at school. Wheel hop woudn't be a problem if the suspension stayed where it belonged. I'm not complaining about wheel hop. I'm complaining about the suspension forcing it's self all the way out, which leads to wheel spin and hop. The suspension is reacting in a wierd way to the torque applied by the front axles, and extending to it's maximum travel. When there isn't torque applied by the axles (when their broken), and it's in RWD, the front stays level, so it's not an acceleration problem, it's a torque loading problem.

I'll have to take pics when I get home. It's not something that people understand untill they see it, then they're mystified. I get plenty of grip in RWD, so it's not an over-power issue.

Heh, I wish I could. I'm working for another year and a half out of this body. I'm getting good with the MIG, so patching the rust isn't horrible, just a PITA. Plus the car was given to me by a relative, so there's a bit of obligation there. And I'm the second owner of the car... how often do you get to say that? Every one of the battle scars in the car was put there by me.. it was pristine when I got it. There's character there that's hard to replace. Stuff like the subframe in the back is too complicated to weld up, so when it rusts out, it's easier to replace than fix. It's easy to pack a stripped subframe in the back of the Outback to bring home, not so easy to buy a cheap wagon and drive/ fix it the whole way home. When I do get a western car, it's going to be a 3-door. I'll EJ+AWD it and keep it out of the woods.

It's not that i'm pushing the limits of acceleration. You'd have to drive like there was an egg under the accelerator pedal NOT to burn the tires... it sucks.

It's not torque steer, that's when 1 axle is longer than the other and the difference in the CV angles tends to make the car pull to one side when accelerating. Ball joints are new, struts are OK, springs are stockers but good. When accelerating, the front struts extend to their maximum travel, leaving the suspension in maxed out position, so that the camber is so: \--/ The tires are riding on their ouside edges at that point and have no traction, so they spin. The only suspension difference is that the strut extensions are an inch longer than the radius rod and crossmember extensions.

So we made it... left at 8AM eastern on wednesday, arived 3:13 AM western today. So that's 45? hours to get here. Only ran over one coyote, and the car worked flawlessly. Held 80 fine in top gear (auto), and would easily excede that when passing (while parents were asleep of course...) Returned milage varying from 24.3- 29.8 mpg, so pretty darn good for the 2.5l Had some insane rain coming through illinois, a semi passed us at full speed while I was having a hard time seeing the lines with the wipers on max at 45. 10mins later, semi is in center median,trying to reverse out of the steep wet grass, 100 feet down the road there's a Chevy silverado crew cab with the bed crushed to half size, the windows blown out, and the front stuffed into the gaurdrail... I hope the semi driver gets absolutely screwed for that one. Same sort of rain, but only for 10mins coming into cheyenneWY around midnight. Other than that, the trip went awsome. Now it's off to scrounge the wyoming junkyards for EA82 rust free parts. I need a rear crossmember in a bad way, mines dropping pieces off it's so rusty.

Leaving today, heading on rt80 most of the way. In white 98 outback with bad piston slap. If it holds together, I'll post in wyo, if not, I'll be looking for friendly garages to put it back together in.

EA82 wagon, 4" PK lift, 30" tires, EJ22. The problem is that the front end lifts up to the point the suspension is at full droop whenever I accelerate in the lower gears. It's a problem to the point that if I try and accelerate hard, the front end will get really squirilly, spinning one side, then the other and generally really hard to control, and this is on dry pavement. The problem is gone when the car is in RWD with a snapped front axle, so it's not a soft rear spring/ weight transfer issue. The issue has something to do with the interaction of the front suspension with the torque from the front axles, but I can't fathom it. It's fun for screwing around and spinning the tires, but it sucks when you have to pull out into a busy street and your spending all your time trying to keep the car under control.

AHEM. I live on the east coast and my loyale has an ej22 in it so they DO exist on the east coast. However, it is a lot of work and fiddling around and not for the easily discouraged, but man o man is the power nice. You will be able to cremate the front tires at will, and the ej22 harness can be easily adapted to run an ej25 at a later date when you get even more power hungry.

We've got a 98 outback with piston slap. #4 cyl only, but it clacks away quite loudly. It lessens a bit when warmed up, but is still audible inside the car with the windows up. I bought the car with blown headgaskets, so couldn't run it enough to warm it up. Replaced the heagaskets, wished I had replaced the pistons too while I was in there. POS design detail in my opinion. Hate the 2.5's for the crappy pistons and headgaskets and difficult head design, love them for the power boost.