WoodsWagon

I've seen an outback limited, 95-99 bodystyle, in the junkyard with 2 moonroofs. One over the rear seats, and one over the front, with glass that followed the contour of the hi-roof hump. This was a car with all the options checked off, but no front end left cause something clipped it good.

If the head has had one spark plug blown out of it, then one short helicoil blown out of it, then a longer helicoil put in, that longer helicoil WILL BLOW OUT. Each stage of the things you've blown out has taken a portion of the aluminum out of the hole. You're to the point that there ain't much to grab onto in the hole anymore, so putting in a longer helicoil will only buy you some time. Put an insert in, and it should be golden.

I just replaced the wires on my dad's 95 legacy. It was missing on hills and took longer to start. I replaced them with subaru wires. The new subaru wires looked the same as the ones that were on it, but they reduced the after dark wet-wire lightshow significantly, and eliminated the missfires. Car starts faster too. I'm running the older red wires on my EJ22. The older red subaru wires have the date of manufacture on them in white letters... 1989. And they still work great.

That's why you weld the rear diff. That way it doesn't matter so much if you're lifting a wheel. 4 wheel independent suspesion will always have limits for flex. That's why people run solid axles for real off road rigs. You want flex, but without putting a solid axle, you ain't getting it.

A CV on the way out will cause just the issues your describing. Replace it with a new one, not a reman, many of those are shoddily done and may not last. Replacing the gear oil won't solve any center diff problems, it's a sealed unit. Not that it's a bad idea to change the gear oil every now and again.

If this was a 2.2l, i'd tell you to use one of those thread inserts, not a helicoil, but more like a sleeve that comes with a tap that bores an oversized hole in, you thread the sleeve in, then there's an expander that you punch in that locks it in place. The 2.5l has the spark plugs down in the bottom of a hellhole, so I'd just replace the head with a used one.

I went magnet fishing today to try and find my hook and the spark plug socket. No luck, they're gone.

The old saying "nececity is the mother of invention" applied here, my old coupler was seizing, I had put penetrating oil on it and it loosened up a bit, but the seizing + years of abusive driving had trashed the splines in the coupler. I had a bit of play in the steering wheel, and that was the splines moving around. Not good, lucky we caught it before the wheel spun freely. The only other I had around was the seized one off my mom's outback. Put it in the vice, worked the joints around, and put it in the car. Knowing me, it will be in there a while untill it gets unbearable to turn.

So me and konrad put it in my loyale yesterday. For an engine that has a million stop and go miles behind it, it runs awesome. Car ripps again. Burns rubber even... I'll have to watch myself. No keeping the right foot planted for miles at a time anymore. Hell, it pulls up over 80 in third. Not bad for a free engine and one full day of work. We did some other things, replaced an axle, made some adapters so the RHD manifold would play with the LHD power steering lines, replaced a steering coupler and other bits here and there.

For those with 3" lift blocks under their EA82 crossmember, you can use the steering coupler (the 2 u-joints) out of an 95-99 outback. The splines seem to match up, it's about a 1/4" longer than ideal, so you have to loosen the rack bushings a bit to get it on. Once you have it slipped over the splines on the column and rack, tighten the rack bushings back up. Slide the coupler up and down between the column and rack to take any bind out of it, and tighten it down. This means you don't have to cut the stock coupler in half and weld in an extension. Just go to the J/Y and grab one, and it bolts in.

My EJ22 hits it at 6.75k, so you can go a bit past redline to shift.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77040 DON'T cross-forum post. If it's in the wanted section, it's good enough, don't also put it in the old gen. You also may need an axle if the hub flanges splines are trashed.

Heh, my axle broke today, turning around in the driveway. So I cut it a bit fine with the whole extraction and wheeling. It had been dieing for a couple months now, so it's time was due.

If you're trying to sell the parts, use the marketplace forum of the board. Other than that, welcome. Using good spelling and grammar is appreciated on this board.

Since it's leaking externally, you could throw a bottle of stop leak in and hope for the best. Don't go hog wild and clog the radiator though. You might want to put a shunt hose in instead of the heater core hoses to keep that from getting gummed up while the stop leak does it's thing.

Sounds like a good deal to me. I was given an EJ22, complete except for 2 injector plugs for free by a local shop when I went by to get the ol' GMC AG truck inspected (Brakes? Check. Brake lights? Check, Steering wheel? Check. Exhaust present? Check? Yeah it's there, but... Here's your sticker. Man I love the power of the Agricultural Plate). The engine was out of a postal legacy. One shop thought it had rod knock, the owner brought it to this shop for an engine to be put in, they had prebought. This shop listened to it, thought it wasn't rod knock, but weren't 100% sure what it was. I listened to it, thought it might be cracked flexplate. Either way, they had to pull the motor, so they threw the other, lower milage motor in it. This motor was sitting on the pallet, with the cracked flexplate, the postal driver didn't want it, so the shop gave it to me. As I drove home, I saw the postal legacy delivering the mail, they probably wondered why I waved.

Zap, it's a V6 truck, and the intake box looks a lot different than yours. It's one of those circular panel filter deals, and it has a molded plastic cone pulling from behind the headlight, not the best spot for a truck that was intended to be offroad capable. The water didn't even come up over the hood, at least when I blew mine there was a wave coming up the windshield... And who's throwing blame around? I watched from the bank as the owner of the truck blew his motor up in a pond of his chosing. It's obvious he f'd up and broke his own truck. There's no loose blame there. I just helped remedy the situation afterward. As for my hook, I did warn them it wasn't anchored very well, and the driver of the yota was ducking every time I hit the end. Mabe it's worse because we knew what would happen and did it anyways? The wagon has pulled an extended cab tacoma on 32's that was buried to the bumpers in thick mud out... with a chain. That was ugly. So it does work as an extraction tool for yota's. If I had all 4 cyl's, I could have pulled this yota out of the woods myself. The right way to do it would be to call in the friend with the 6x6 2.5 ton with the PTO winch, and pull the truck out and load it on the flatbed. Unfortunately, such a friend doesn't exist in this neck of the woods, so you're stuck with bouncing trucks off the end of a rope. Like Rummy sez, "you go offroading with the rig you have, not the rig you wish you had."

drive in a dusty or forest fire area, and you'll apreciate them.

I got called out to help a couple of my friends that had gotten an early 90's toyota stuck. I went out there, with my almost blown axle and 3cyl's, and pulled them out. The truck came out pretty easy, it wasn't that buried. They drove around the mudhole, I drove through where they got stuck. It was pretty slick stuff, had all 4 going and dollops of mud flying. They head into a pond where we sunk a cj7 years ago. The toyota was making good progress, got kinda stuck, but with rocking it was making it out the other side. The driver of the yota backed most of the way up in the pond, and made one hard run for the other side. I heard the engine sucking water noise from the bank as he redlined first in the water, then wham it was over. I knew this noise from when I killed my EA82. Toyota had placed the air intake right behind the left headlight, so when that goes under, water is funneled into the airbox. The filter was soaked, I wrung streams of water out of it, and when we pulled the rubber intake tract off, waterfalls of water came out. We used paper towels to try and sop up what was in the throttle body. We decided it was best to pull the plugs, so we drove back out in my wagon and picked up tools (about a half hour trip). We pulled the plugs (all were soaking wet), and cranked it over. Two revolutions, big gysers of water coming out, and Whack, it stopped. I turned it back by hand using the powersteering belt and I could hear what I assume to be the lower half of a rod making clinking noises as I turned it. We tried a few times to get it to spin over, but each time the broken rod would jam it with a wince-inducing WHACK. So we know the trucks not coming out under it's own power... So we hook the subie up. By getting the full ropes length of a run, I could hammer the end and drag the truck forward out of the pond about a foot. I got the front of the truck up out of the water before my hook ripped off my bumper, nailed the front of the truck, and ricochetted somewhere into the pond, taking the 2 class 8 bolts with it. SOAB! That was a nice hook! Reinforcements were called in, in the form of a 2.7l tacoma, which was untill today a pretty-boy truck. It's owner was a real champ, and he never complained about what must be a fair number of scratches in it's beautiful paint. With the tacoma bouncing off of the rope, and digging trenches, we got the yota out of the pond and turned around. The rear tow bar tore the frame on the tacoma, so we switched to using the front hook on the tacoma. At one point, the tacoma went 6 feet sideways on the end of the rope. Pretty cool to see a show truck having the everlivin snot beaten out of it. Oh yeah, I had also gotten my car stuck in the first mudhole, 4th time through, and I got it sunk, so we used the taco to pull it out. We hooked my car up to the dead toyota, and I hauled it around the pond, back through the first mudhole, and 2/3's of the way up the first hill before the 3cyl's bogged and stalled. We hooked the tacoma back up and had him reverse-haul the truck up the 2n'd long hill, which is also off-camber and rutted. Once we had the truck up that, we hooked it back up to the subie, and I made the haul out of the woods (about a mile and a half of trails) and out to the road. From there, the subie hauled the truck about 4 miles on the street to a local shop. Never shifted out of 2nd, and spend some time redlineing in 1st getting up hills. Luckily the CV held together. The hardest part was intersections, where the toyota put up more resistance while turning and would try to drag the back of my car sideways. So the truck needs a new engine, the tacoma needs the frame bent back down and reinforced, and I need to find my hook in the pond (mabe magnet fishing?). I worked my car real hard today, and it's still chuggin and clickin but rolling along under it's own power just as good as it did before. It's also coated in chunky thick mud. Only burned half a quart of oil during the whole adventure.

THere's only a sparse few of the EA82's still circulating on this coast. It's the rust that kills them. The only EA81's I've seen on this coast are brats, and one wagon hidden under a rosebush one town over. Older legacy's are more common, but the rust hole over the rear wheel well is killing those off to. The 95-99 bodystyle is everywhere.

Lander, wyoming is where I had to replace the bearings so I could make it back to NH. I got raped on the parts prices and it still hurts, but those bearings wouldn't have made it home. They made different noises depending on which side of the crown of the highway I rode on...

Wouldn't the turbo cars have the single headlights? The 4's were pretty much the DL's right? Might be an EJ swap

Eh, sorry about the post misplacement, I went to the new gen forum this morning and was wondering where my post went? So I musta put it in the wrong place last night. Mod's move it please. There was a bit of an odd smell, kinda like burning belt and a squeeking noise... I figured it was the A/C tensioner pully, but mabe it's the belt slipping on the water pump. The water pump is the only thing that hasn't been swapped on this car, so it might be worth a shot to take a look at.

As someone who is going through 2 years of college just to be a mechanic, I would tell your grandparents to BLEEP if they told that to me. I'm always of the opinion that I could be much worse of a person, so anyone who has expectations should settle for what they get. Mabe I'm a selfish prick? The forester x is a sweet deal. I've seen rust free beautiful Gen 1 wagons in junkyards in wyoming. You can find another if it strikes your fancy in a few years. The xt... eh. it's a dressed up EA82. If it's not a 6, I don't really see why you'd want it. You can always put your wrenching urges under the hood of the forester, it's a tad more expensive, but the psi under there amplifies any work you do to it. Take the deal and ditch those cars!

The local junkyard owner has a friend who was trying to get a subaru going, but was having a hard time. I helped supply some stuff like a radiator and whatnot, but he couldn't get it to work. So he left it off at the J/Y, and the owner asked me to take a crack at fixing it. It's an AWD auto sedan, so it's kinda worth it. Runs good, has decent power, but starts climbing into the red and pukeing coolant pretty quick. The rad was OK, the fans come on when they should, the upper hose is hot, the lower hose is cooler, neither seems to be collapsing and the system holds enough pressure so that you can feel it in the hoses. It's not bubbling into the resavaur tank, and the tank looks clean. You can't smell exhaust in the radiator or coolant in the exhaust. No CEL. If you rev the engine up with the cap off, coolant gushes out of the top of the rad, which i would assume means the water pump is working. Oh, and the thermostat has been pulled. Any ideas before I start diagnosing this pig?