WoodsWagon

yes, and it will raise the suspension about an inch and a half. Even with the stock legacy springs.

I use an Actron Super scantool. It works well, it's simple, and it lets you watch the sensor outputs, which is handy. It also has adapters to let you do OBD1 cars. The other scantool I have is a ProScan adapter that hooks between a PC and the car. It does all the regular functions, but it can also graph the sensors outputs, give you estimated 1/4mile times, and dyno charts based on the weight of the vehicle and the speed sensor. It was cheaper than the Actron, but it doesn't play nice with some cars, like a 2006 Nissan Titan.

Kinda fuzzy....

The oil pump is turned directly by the crank, so you'd have to mount a remote one to be able to reverse it's direction.

Judging by the way one of mine cracked last summer, cast iron. Great write up, however this doesn't apply to any car in the rust belt. Upgrade to a 3lb sledge, use lots of penetrating oil. Heat both pinchbolts way up before attempting to remove. Ball joint may or may not come out of the spindle, you might have better luck getting the tapered part out of the control arm.

Don't just bondo or fiberglass over that. You need patches welded in. Messing around with the wheel wells and the coilover mounting points is not a good thing to be doing. Remember, this is an EA82 wagon, so the entire weight of the car is supported by the wheel well. That is structural. And yes, the rear coilovers can punch up through and put the car in instant low rider. Connie, you should also take a screwdriver to the body right where the front of the rear subframe attaches, right at the back of the floor pans. This area: If you fix it, weld it. See if you can borrow or rent a mig welding setup. Mig welding has to be the most forgiving setup for beginners. If something goes wrong, you just let go of the trigger and everything stops. It's really easy to learn, and you can fix the car a lot better than you ever could with rivits and bondo. I used to use the same technique to fix my rust. Now I'm tearing those patches off as the rust spreads and welding in replacement patches. Make the leap to welding, you won't regret it.

Do what you want, but you may need to add oil and change plugs more often because of this. Using engine braking is making the engine suck as hard as it can, pulling the most vaccum in the intake manifold. This also pulls the most vacuum in the cyl's, which tends to pull oil past the rings. This also pulls the oil past the intake valve stem seals. With the injectors shut off by the ECM, you're not going to have any firing going on in the cyl's, so fouling the plugs with the oil sucked in is more likely. Big trucks= diesels. These use engine compression to slow the truck. No throttle plate means no vacuum. Car's use a throttle plate, so they are using the engines ability to pull vacuum to slow it down. The way Jake brakes work is by popping off the exhaust valves right at TDC on the comp stroke, which dumps all the stored energy in the compressed air.

Sue happy people like you have helped turn this country into a bunch of liability fearing pusses that can't let anyone have any fun anymore. I'm sure you'd be the first to sue if you cut you finger while pulling parts off a car in a U-pull it junkyard, which is exacly why most junkyards won't let anyone in back anymore. Tire pressure is a well known thing to check on your car. Low tire pressure (on any car) will impair handling, reduce gas millage, increase wear on the front differential, cause pulls while driving and braking, and increase the chance of rollovers (think corvair). As a car owner, it is your responsibility to keep the tires properly inflated. Frivolous Lawsuit!

The two 90's go on the drivers side of the coil pack, pointing downward. The wire then loops back up to the plastic holder brackets. Usually those wires are for the 2.5l, you don't see that on the 2.2l

I saw one of those under the hood of a 74 subie wagon, being used as an aftermarket AC system. Those compressors are BIG.

What do they do in neutral?

THe bolt spacing looks like it may use the engine crossmember bolts to attach to the body. If it can reach there, that's probably where it hooks to.

The rev limiter is at 6,750 rpms, or thereabout. As long as you're not bouncing it off the rev limiter, you're fine. I think wear goes up as a square of speed, so having it wound out all the time will shorten it's life, but winding it out during acceleration is fine. Combustion pressures may actually be higher when you're lugging it at WOT at low RPM's, which is harder on the headgasket if anything. If you like snapping the engine around it's rpm range, make sure the timing belt is within it's replacement schedule.

Your VC hasn't failed completely yet. This makes you a good test case. Leave the driveshaft out, and keep trying to drive it with it out. The wierd noises from the tranny is probably the VC slipping, so push it till it siezes and you should be fine. If it cooks open, then hook the drive shaft back up and you will have AWD again, just only one wheel will spin in low traction. Put it in gear with the shaft out, and lay into that mother! time how long it takes to seize.

It's the toothed ring pressed onto the axle that the ABS wheel speed sensor reads off of. The older ones have the tone ring bolted to the hub under the rotor.

There's a vacuum hose that runs over to a solenoid on the passenger side strut tower. the solenoid then has a hose that runs up to the MAP sensor right above it. Mabe you knocked off one of the vacuum hoses? The hoses running to the MAP solenoid T off of the hose running to the fuel pressure regulator, which could make it run rich at idle because it's not dropping the pressure down to match the manifold pressure.

I may just not be a carshow person, but I think there could have been a lot more for my $20. There was more of a show in the parking lot than the "show" it's self. There was literally nothing going on. A bunch of vendor tents, selling exhuasts and suspensions, some demo vehicles just sitting there, and persistant DJ-pop music. The only activity in the whole place was at the Childrens tent, run by our own Seahag76. She also brought 2 of the 3 subaru's older than mine to the show, a pair of wicked nice brats. The most entertaining part was the enterance, where 2 side by side lines of mostly manual transmission subies moved forward one carlength jump at a time up a steep incline. 3cy's and 30" tires? Kiss your clutch goodbye. Somebody wasn't thinking when they set the admission booths at the top of a hill. There were loads of subarus, but when 80% of them are street-modified wrx's and STI's, it kinda gets old. There's only so many combinations of WR blue, silver, rims, and front lip's that you can put together with mommy and daddy's money. I had the only loyale/GL car there, and mine is a POS. The best car I saw was a late 90's legacy wagon, bone stock, except with a RS hoodscoop... which you could see the intercooler through. 2.0 turbo out of a JDM wrxRA according to to owner. Sleepers are cool. In summary, I woudn't go again unless there were some activities planned. /end piss&moan

I'm going down. Look for a loyale that's obvously been wheeled hard. I'm missing the winch (it's rolling around in the back now), so the front looks fugly. The engine isn't fixed yet, so it sounds fugly. I'm going to replace the right front axle in the morning, so untill then it drives fugly. I just spent the afternoon welding up the rear so it doesn't tear out on the way down. Andyjo, i'm not sure they'll have a mudpit or hillclimb, but we can hope. It's today by the way.... so you have to be ready now to go, and I don't think you have time to do any lifting or snow tires.

Sounds a bit like a heat/dust shield scraping on the driveshaft. Check all the moving parts of the drivetrain for clearance from their shields.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73996 There's one.

This is the method we use at work when we sell a power steering flush. It's a machine with a new fluid bottle, an old fluid tank, and two pumps. You throw a hose in the resavaur, suck out the old fluid, fill it back up with new at the press of a button, start the car and move the steering lock to lock, then repeat. The cool part is that the fresh fluid and old fluid hoses are clear and run right next to each other, so you can compare the fluid color.

The steering coupler, which is the 2 u-joints that connect the steering rack and the steering column can start to seize. In my mothers 98 outback, it made the steering stiffer than normal and the biggest symptom was that the car would stay steered in a circle if you made slow circles in a flat parking lot. If you put the steering at full lock, you could idle the car in a circle without touching the wheel. The coupler is around a hundered bucks. I tried finding one in a junkyard, but it was seized too. It's fairly easy to take off, 2 10mm bolts, then you spread the clamps a bit and slide it up the column and off the rack splines, then down off the column splines. You can't really tell it's seized till you take it off.

With the ej18 swapped in, you can always easily switch to an EJ22 or an EJ25 if you find one for the right price. My EJ22 has almost exactly the same amount of performance as the EA82 did... and it's only running on 3-cylinders. Same top speed (95) same acceleration, same bogging and stalling on steep hillclimbs.

When it comes on when your holding it floored it's only telling you it will hold the lower gears higher into the engine's RPM range. This gives better acceleration. Nothing more than that.

I've done the test with a 1995 legacy, manual tranny. Put the front up on jackstands, put the e-brake on full, and let out the clutch. The engine spun the front wheels without much effort, however, if held at a constant throttle position, it would start to slow the engine, which meant the coupler was heating up and locking down. The viscous coupler has it's limitations. The viscous coupler is only on one of the spider gears because it only needs to be on one. For one output to be spinning faster than the other, the case of the differential, which is what half the plates are attached to, has to be moving at a different speed than the output shaft that the other half of the viscous coupler's plates are attached to. The center differential is no different than your average rear differential in operating principals. Some people say that the center diff becomes an open diff when the VC is overheated. However, I disagree with this because the diff always seems to go to torqe bind (which is full locked) after it's been towed with 2 wheels on the ground, driven with an undersized tire, or otherwise abused. If you overheat it to a point, it must either change the composition of the viscous fluid, or warp the plates to the point they bind, much like what happens when you cook the clutch pack in the auto's.