WoodsWagon

I would be estatic if an insurance company offered me $1800 for my 92 loyale. I seriously doubt that one in the northeast would be valued above $1000, no matter what the condition.

Well, the block I picked up yesterday turns pretty smoothly, so I may be lucky. I'll pull the heads off and return them to the guy, he wants them so he can send them out to the machine shop and have a set on hand for the next car that comes in with blown head gaskets.

Yes, it works, but you'd be stupid to do all the work and not replace the frickin axle. Seriously, by the time your done beating the old axle out of the bearings and popping the balljoint and all that, you would want to put a new axle in and never deal with it again.

Dibs on parts!!!

I'm picking up another EJ25 tommorow morning, for 25 bucks. The valves on the drivers side were closed so that side should be good. The passengers side may be done, none of the plugs were rusty, so there's hope. The engine was left without a throttle body and injectors, so there was pletny of ways for water to get in, there's even a puddle in the intake. You can't loose for 25 bucks.

They actually weren't a bad idea, it was just that people would figure the auto belt was all they needed and not put on the lap belt, which was seperate. When they crashed, they would "submarine" under the shoulder belt, which sucked for their neck, and they would bury their lower body into the dash. As long as you don't stick your head out the window and then open the door, the belts aren't a problem. There is a pocket at the front edge of the rear seat , down by the floor, that has an allen wrench in it that is for cranking the belts back. Each B-pilar has an acess hole at the bottom for cranking the belts back. If you pull the trim panel off of the b-pillar, you can unplug the belts motor. Then just use the "emergeny" release button and pretend you're hooking up a 2 point harness each time you get in.

I've got 2 apart on my garage floor, a 97 DOHC EJ25 out of an outback, and a SOHC EJ25 out of a forrester. The DOHC has badly rusted and pitted cyl walls, the SOHC had a piston that blew the ringlands off. AND, previously unknown, it has huge gouges in one cyl wall. Like gouges you can feel through the paper towl you're using to wipe down the cyl's with ATF. No big deal I think, I'll use one half of each block and see how it goes. Then I get bit by the thrust bearings, one is on the third main, the other is on the rear main. How many POS EJ25's does it take to build one good one? I've got a sea of EJ22 + EJ25 parts I'll see about collecting another EJ25. There's enough with blown headgaskets kicking around.

Moosens, if you come, I'll give you those trim panels and the seats to take home with you.

I second this. Way cheaper, and on an older car like yours, you should be familiar with getting parts from a scrapyard.

A 1995 2.2l out of an auto transmission legacy is what you want if you want everything to bolt right up. Older ones will work, but you would need to figure out how you're running the EGR system.

The shocks are about $50 apice new, so I'd buy them.

At a local junkyard. I've gotten way to used to my regular junkyard, with $50 engines. I asked the lady behind the counter how much it was for curiosity's sake, and when she told me I was literaly and she laughed. That's just a tad outside my price range.

what do you mean by "the belts are missing"?

All the non-turbo Ej22's.

I would have gone with a lock-rite front and a welded rear myself, but it looks like it will turn out to be a kickarse rig.

Am I the only one who enjoys busting the front tires loose with the EJ22? Though stock size tires would be rediculous I would think. It would be hard to keep them hooked up at all.

Give it a shot, and take pictures. It's pretty easy swapping them back and forth if you have air tools and a spring compressor. Even with NH rust it's not bad.

Which would make the 2wd shock a cheap way for other people to get a bit of lift.

sonofa****, so I should have bought 2wd shocks. Do you think the parts store will take back the shock I put the spring on? $60 is a lot to swallow for an inch.

OK. That takes the doubt of whether I should have bought 2wd's in stead of 4wd's. I'll run it for a bit like this, the chop them later. I kinda like it high, even though I know it will ride like poo. I've got a cuttoff wheel, so chopping them on-car will be no problem.

If I used 2wd shocks, could you run the accord springs without cutting them? The spring seat is lower on the 2wd's right?

So I put one on a new shock and put it in the back of my loyale wagon. It's gone from being saggy in the rear to cranked way up. From prior experience, it's going even higher when I put the other side together. I'd like some downtravel left on the suspension, so should I cut the springs a bit of leave them as is and hope they settle? The loyale already has a PK 4/4 lift in it and 235/75r15's on it, and it looks like an AA lift now with how far the suspension is cranked.

If you can. take the tire and wheel to someone who has a wheel balancer that is equipped to measure road force variation. It has a big roller that presses on the tire while it rotates. That will tell you if you have shifted belts or not.

Ho ho ho, carnage indeed. You see your first picture? On my old 3-door, you had a full view of the ground up to the tipi top of your rust line. You could reach up through the rocker an touch where the metal came toghether for the rear 1/4 windows. THAT ISN"T RUST What I do is start with a blunt flathead screwdriver. Poke the rust on the outside. Poke it till it isn't there anymore, then use a wire wheel around the hole to clean down to bare metal. Weld a patch over it, primer it and paint it. (bondo if your obsessive) For the inside, the easist would be a sandblaster, then some good paint, like POR-15.

tire balace only has to do with wear and vibration, not steering pulls. If it goes away when you put it on the back, leave it there.