WoodsWagon

It's easy to flip a roo, I do it all the time. You hook a strap to the top of the B-pillar, hook it to the tow hook on your car, reverse till you take the slack out, then bounce off on the clutch and pull the roo right up. You have to bounce it to stop the wheels from just sliding.

I'd take the trim off of the inside of the pillar and see how bent it is on the inside. I'd say it was fixable.

I'd throw the EJ22 in. It's really an easy engine to replace, the hardest part is getting the bellhousing to slide apart if the dowel pins have corrosion on them. Throw some oil down the sparkplug holes of the replacement engine, and use a ratchet to turn it over a few times. Set aside a weekend and an engine lift and you'll have the legacy back on the road no problem.

The open diffs blow too. I cooked one mid-burnout, and the other popped hillclimbing in sand, but it had had a fair bit of burnout abuse before it popped. Took the teeth off of the spider gears on the second one, snapped the crosspin and grenaded the spider gears on the first one. The carrier cracked and bent in that one too, and the ring and pinion got trashed by the amount of metal running around inside the diff as I nursed it home.

The compressor has seized on my dad's 95 legacy, which runs R134a. I have a spare R12 compressor out of an earilier legacy. Could I put in the R12 compressor and run it with R134a in the system, or would I need to flush out the compressor.

I'd go with the EJ22, especially if if comes with a dual range tranny. The EJ22 has more torque, which I think you will feel more than the Hp advantage that the EJ20 has. And if your moving a legacy, you need torque.

I just ordered in GCK's for my EA82. At a hundered bucks a piece, they're really not that much more expensive than reman's. I go through axles like candy in the front, so I'm hoping the GCK's will hold up a lot better than the other's I've been using.

Did they break any windows? I do that all the time in the junkyard to get parts off the drivetrain, so when I saw that, I thought, oh he's just stripping it for parts. Then I started thinking, damn, the car's actually in pretty good shape, what's he parting it out for? Then I read your second post.

your axles won't make it to the show! look at those angles!

If I were to cough up the $55 and enter in the show, what class would I go in? My car runs on the street, but it ain't no street car, I rally it on the backroads, but it ain't no rally car, and I wouldn't take it on any track outside a 1/4 mile, It would understeer and roll like no other. If it won any prize, I would love to see the faces of the "tuners"!!! I took the car down to a dirtbike hillclimbing event in munson, and I parked a ways back in the parking lot, but while I was wandering in the pits, I overheard people saying "did you see that subaru in the parking lot?", so just parking in the normal visitors lot might be enough of a show for the car.

I know that other air-ride systems (like ford's) will get screwed up if you jack them up without turning the air ride off. Not sure about subaru's though. Do you hear air leaking out after the car has pumped it's self up and you shut the car off? How fast does it sink back down in the front?

If you're looking for torque, as i would assume in an off-roading rig, you can use a 2.5l flywheel, which is many pounds heavier than the 2.2l flywheel. Any subaru clutch disk should work, and any N/A pressure plate. The 2.5l pressure plate puts out an extra 30 or so pounds of clamping force, I'll have to look back at the FSM, but I think it was 220lbs vs. the 190 of the 2.2l.

2001 taco 3.4l 5spd. Putting used 31 mudders on it for $100 Looking into a Powertrax No-slip for the rear for $350 Roof and winshield are going on in the fall. I still wheel my sube, this will be a recovery and cleanup truck.

Yup. I'm running one 95 head on my 92 block with the 92 manifold and everything bolts up.

The end of the spedo cable has a spade like thing on it that engages with a shaft in the tranny, so no gear on the cable. I would think that the legacy cables would work, but I'd have to take a look at the one I have down back.

You have to leave the end of the axle in the wheel assembly... it holds the wheel bearings toghether. That is why you need to dissasemble the outer CV joint like the people above said. You only need to do this to one front axle. Leave the other completely in place, it won't cause any harm and makes it much easier to put things back toghether when you blow the rear end/driveshaft/tranny out of it. On the side that you removed the axle, it is perfectly fine to leave the splined shaft sticking out of the transmission exposed. Don't bother reinforcing anything. What's there is stronger than what is in the drivetrain. I've grenaded 2 diffs, 2driveshaft U-joints, and one nice low milage D/R tranny running RWD. It wasn't just the rear output that went, the whole tranny chewed its self to chunks. Granted, it had 135hp feeding one end and 215/75r15's fighting it on the other, but it's easy to demolish the drivetrain. Watch out for wheel-hop. I found hi-range was much better for burnouts than lo-range. Hi range let the wheels pick up some speed when you are smoking them, which makes the burnout easier to maintain. Push on the footbrake hard, set the handbrake, let off on footbrake. Rev up engine to 2.5krpm, let clutch out sharply (don't dump it, but don't slowly feed it out either). Rear right will break loose. Let rear right come up to speed (engine around 5.5krpm). Turn the steering wheel left a bit, start easing out on handbrake. Left rear should break loose. Keep vehicle moving forward slowly with the hanbrake. When finished traveling distance sideways, POWER OUT OF THE BURNOUT. Ease the handbrake out all the way and let the tires spin until the hook up. Letting up on the gas will increase your chances of blowing the diff. You better have a strong right hand. It took all I had to keep the wagon in check once the tires were fully warmed up. They were wide, grippy tires though. Oh, and don't do this on the public street;)

I think the compressor may be siezing. I found the belt with one of it's ends sticking out by the alternator. It had evidently stopped turning, and then smoked on the crank pully till it burned through. The idler pully moves fine, and the compressor pully spins fine, but the compressor its self is pretty stiff to turn. I'll put one of my spare belts on, then fire it up and watch to see what happens.

I don't leave for scotland until july 13, so I'm in. I'll buy ticks the day of the event. Keep an eye out for a lifted subaru wagon. I better get my hind in gear and replace that engine, fix that steering, patch that rust, and fix that winch.

Oh, and where in NH do you live? And if you were to ditch the car, how much would you want?

While the rust may look ugly, it doesn't look structural yet. Take a big screwdriver to the rear crossmember, and poke in the flat area up from where the lateral links connect. That's where my dad's car rusted through. Took a crossmember out of a newer outback, and it was easy to replace. If you can punch holes through, and you don't have mechanical aptitude, I'd sell the car. If you can't punch holes through, fix the brake lines and keep driving it. It shouldn't cost you more than a couple hundered bucks for both the rear brake lines and bleeding. Parts may include: Rear wheel cylinders, both rear flex hoses, brake tubing, flare nuts, and a union. Brake fluid too.

One of my friends uncles did that on a backroad in my town about 3 years ago. Highly modified WRX, 5 people on board, 3 bucked in. Estimated 60mph into a tree with the drivers door, shards of the CD he was changing at the time embedded in his hand. Coke was involved, and not the liquid kind. He died instanly, as did the rear right passenger, who wasn't bucked in and flew aross the car and died too. This is a road I have a hard time holding 45mph on. Other 3 people in the car had cut's and scrapes.

I've had to redo the lines on the back of my loyale, which isn't much different. The nice thing about subarus is that most of the brake and fuel lines are run inside the body. This protects them from rust. If you flip up the rear seat bottom (you know about that feature right?), the pull the black thin stickybacked stuff up off the floor below the seat bottom, you will see the brake lines. Which ever line rusted off, you want to use a flare union (NOT a compression union) to join your home-bent line to the good line inside the body. Bend the brake line to approxamitely match what was origional, and hook it back up. You may need to replace the flex line that runs out to the strut if the flare nut snaps off in the end. Use flare nut wrenches, Be patient, and you can easily repair it cheaply.

since we got the car going back in December. It rattles nonstop, real bad pistonslap. Runs well enough though. we run 89 in it just to be safe.

Uh, clean the snots out of it with alcohol before you reuse the caliper. PB+ brakefluid = seals in rest of brake system swelling a leaking.

wheel bearings. The fronts can growl for a while, but the rears don't last long once they start.