WoodsWagon

I've now run across 4 burned exhaust valves in EJ22's Konrad/soo's 1995 EJ22 My 1992 EJ22 twice Here's one of them: Customer at a local shop's 92 EJ22 I did a search and turned up: 94 EJ22 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59287 All the valve's ive seen have big pie-slice chunks missing out of them, with slag tails going off the back, just like someone took a cutting torch to the valve.

That relocation pic looks exactly like how I have my mom's outback set up. Her's has bad piston slap, and it was tripping the knock sensor off, and pulling the timing back to 15degrees.

The rust is controll able. It's got a hole through the drivers side rear side of the rocker, which lead to a hole under the rocker up by the divers door. And some flaking at the rear floorpan seams. I've already redone the rear quarters a few years ago, and they are still holding. I woudn't call it a safety hazard yet, the steering is bound up, but it won't come dissconected, just takes more effort at different points in a turn. I don't think the subframe will shift further if I keep it on the street. The reason it's moved a half inch back is because I must have caught it on a rock. There's still 4 bolts holding it in on the left side. And it's not the subframe that's torn (I would be worried then, I've seen the pics of them folded in the middle), it's the floorpan where the subframe attaches in the front. I've been using it for a 50 mile daily round trip commute for a few months now like this. The brakes are in top notch shape, so that makes up for a bit. It'll be nice again when I'm finished overhaulling it. Might even take it back out to wyoming.

It's overhaul time for my loyale. The exhaust is falling off, and it comes apart faster than I can weld it toghether, the engine is running on 3cyl's (burned valve), The shifter's pivot plate sheared off between the 5spd lever and the d/r 4wd lever, so the 4wd is guesswork and I have to hold the shifter up all the time so it doesn't bounce off of the driveshaft. The front right axel is clicking badly The steering column is bent at the bottom, and now the coupler u-joints are starting to seize, causing the steering wheel force to be notchy and unpredictable. The winch needs it's motor magnets glued back in for it to work. The rust holes are expanding rapidly The rear subframe has torn the body and shifted back 1/2" on the left side The radio's keep alive power wire got sheared off, so you have no presets or clock anymore. It's come to the amount of annoyances that it's hard work to keep the car on the road. The steering is probably the most important, then the rear subframe. Then the engine and exhaust. Luckily I finished this semester of school last tuesday, so I have some time to tear it down. I want 2 more years out of this car, then I can get something from the west with NO RUST and move into it.

any non-pushbutton tranny. you could swap to a dual range box and center console, it's a huge improvement in my opinion, though a bit of work. You could probably swap over to a dual range stalk and linkage and leave the 4wd shifter off... It should hide under the shifter boot fine.

The shifter is held on with a roll pin, so I'm not sure that an aftermarket knob will work. The pushbutton wiring goes down inside the shifter boot, then comes back into the interior and has a connector under the carpet biside the passenger seat. You could move it if you wanted to, but I think you would have to use another shifter stalk to put a knob on.

Up-optioned it some more today. I picked up a subaru CD player out of a 1994 legacy GT at the junkyard for $10. Cleaned the nicotine film off of the face of it, and plugged it into the headunit in the Brighton. Works fine. Bolts into place too. The face sticks out about 1/8" beyond the radio face, but the trim panel fits perfectly. The only modification I had to make was hooking up the illumination light wires. I had to remove the pins from the 94 legacy connector, then clip the connector body to the CD player. I pulled the pins out of the 95 legacy wiring harness connector and slid them into the 94 connector body while it was clipped into the CD player. The pins hold the wires in pretty good, but the crimped end sticks out, so there is the potential for a short. I figured that the radio, CD player, and wiring harness doesn't move much back there, so it should be fine.

Then you should not go to the dealer. If you sit in the drivers seat, right by your left knee on the dash there is a little 2"X4" cover with a spot to pull it down with your finger. The cover should pop open, and you will see a trapezoidal 16 hole connector inside it. That's your OBDII connector. Any shop worth it's salt will have a scan tool that will hook up to it.

How about you drive it down here, I help you strip it, and I'll give you a ride home? I live 40min's west of nashua. I could use a number of parts, and I can trade the shell for more subaru parts when I'm done with it. I'll pay you the hundred and supply pizza for lunch.

It really should have an infinity reading for when you never hit 60. I was going more for the 60' time and the 1/8 mile.

If you look at the passenger side rear of the transmission, you should see a rod coming in up high. This rod attaches to a rod in the transmission. If you follow the rod inside the transmission forward, you will see it comes back out of the transmission about 6" forward. There is a ball-joint, and a rod that goes to the front of the transmission, up to a lever by the dipstick tube. This is what selects hi and lo range. The 4wd is selected back where the rod goes through the rear of the transmission. How does the lever inside the car feel when you shift it? It should be fairly solid, not loosy-goosy. 4wd should click in with about 2" of lever travel, and 4lo in about 4" of travel.

Awesome. Go out and drive it some and see how it does. It'll make you feel better.

Take some video's of the engine as it blows.

You have the parts, now toss them at it! See where geting professional diagnostics gets you? How much did that pump cost? Though you could consider it a preventative maintenence thing. The spfi shouldn't have a vacuum controled pressure regulator.... I'd try the injector for the heatsoak reason I said in one of my other posts. After that, the computer.

I was running 30x9.5's on my loyale with a Pushbutton tranny! Talk about hammering my way through obsticals. I fixed that problem with a D/R and an EJ22. 30's aren't a problem. You just have to get good at changing clutches. I don't have anyone to wheel with anymore. I often prefer cruising the backwoods alone. I had some friends that I could call in when I got stuck, but they don't have real trucks anymore.

Both my dad's 95 2.2 and my mom's 98 2.5 do this. They shut off after a little bit. Had me worried the first time I noticed. Not sure why it does this, but it's just the way it works.

Totally. The worst is that most of the west-coasters don't appreciate what they have. So it's our duty as east coasters to take the cars away from them to a place where they will be appreciated.

You will also need an 8mm socket to take off the 3 solenoid cover bolts. The two nuts come off, the starter slides back, and you pull it out. Make sure you undo the battery cables first. The starter cables have enough current carrying capacity to weld things like your wedding ring to a ground if you screw up.

My loyale has that coating under the paint on the lower section of the car, and TaDa, it's rusting away. Every spring I have to patch more. And BDG, it was crackpot B.S. like "buzzing steel" that got you banned in the first place. Just go away. Please. Sorry paul. I guess I was a little too general in saying all of them dissapeared in a puff of rust. I just haven't seen any rust-free old subies in my 100 mile radius. It was an eye opener when I scouted some of the junkyards in wyoming. There was subarus from the mid 70's that had NO rust. My uncle who lives out there had forgot how bad our northeast rust was, so he had a harsh reminder when we did a bunch of work on my car.

I've got one of those 1/4 mile programs on my laptop, based off of vehicle speed sensor. Not the most accurate, but gives an idea. The outback turns out this: Outback Wednesday, May 09, 2007 9:01:22 PM 60' Time ........................ 002.593 sec 0 to 60 MPH ..................... 000.000 sec 1/8 Mile ET ..................... 011.385 sec 1/8 Mile Speed .................. 053.241 mph 1000' Time ...................... 016.129 sec 1/4 Mile ET ..................... 021.050 sec 1/4 Mile Speed .................. 044.739 mph It's not street racing if no one else is there and you're staying close to the speed limit, which was 50. I let off when I got up to 50. So that explains the 44mph trap speed.

This is what happens to subies on the east coast: This is why there are hardly any EA82's kicking around, and EA81's rare as hens teeth. This happens to ALL the subaru's pre legacy, in exactly the same spots.

Sure you didn't bend the dust shields behind the rotors while you were working on them? They can be close enough to rub only when your turning. More of a scrape scrape than a grinding usually.

Around my neck of the country, we'd be verry supicious of the brake lines after sitting for any longer than 6 months. But out there you guys don't have that rust thing, so it should probably be fine.

Fix the hole in the exhaust. It's probably in the piping coming off the cat, so the cat itself may be fine, the metal is just rusted out. Use a Mig welder to tack it back toghether

Pursue the tray option at your local junkyard. lots cheaper.