WoodsWagon

As long as your the cause it's all good. Mabe see if you could go to a baby supply store and play mix and match with the car seats. Mabe get two that face backward and one that faces forward or whatnot. Something so that you could fit 3 in. I "dealer installed" a car seat into an accord that had a separate base that the kid basket clipped into, seemed pretty compact. Mabe one of those in the middle, and a couple normal ones on the sides?

Depends on how many of the t-belt cover bolts have rusted heads. They can get stuck, or have the hex head rust off. Either way, they're a pain and I often get annoyed and just rip the cover off.

Oh my God!... Dumb Dog!

Using a medium pair of channel lock pliars works well too. Just take it slow, and don't tear the dust boot. It's not just subaru that uses that design, anyone who has E-brake integrated with the caliper does. Don't let the parts store sell you the tool that turns and pushes it in at the same time, it's not worth it.

Which engine are we talking about here? I know on the DOHC ones, there is a spot on the cam that you can get a wrench on. I went through my pile of standard wrenches and found one that could be lightly tapped on. Jam it against the head and pop the bolt off.

You don't have to take apart your wheel bearings. Take the axel nut off, and the flange and rotor slide off the splines. Undo the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the flange, and replace it. Bolt it back together, put the flange back on the axel splines, put the washer on with the OUT letters facing out, and put the nut on. Use a breaker bar, and do the one leg stand on it to tighten it down. Don't forget the cotter pin afterwards. Oh, and the caliper pistons need to be rotated clockwise as they are pushed in. Take your time and don't strip the E-brake adjuster inside the caliper.

Were you running rear wheel drive? It just seems like there isn't a lot of stress on that u-joint normally. How much of the tranny is broken? Is just the gaurd cup ripped off, or is there aluminum missing?

Answered my own question. On 1995 models the 20pin black connector is behind the passenger side kick panel. It's kinda tucked up into the harness behind the kickpanel and held on with some masking tape. Cruise control systems from later years work just fine with the 1995 cruise control. I plugged it in, cruise works great. Now to find a good spot to bolt it down on that side.

Where the F is that thing stored? I'm installing cruise into a 1995 legacy brighton. I've got the dash switch, wheels switch, vacuum pump, actuator, and both pedal switches installed. What I can't find is the black 20 pin connector that the CC ECU plugs into . All the other connectors were in the harness, so I would assume this one would be to. The two studs int he bottom of the steering column are there, so I assume that the CC ECU is mounted in the same spot as the Outback I took it out of. Has anyone else had experience finding this connector? Is it taped into the harness? Is it hidden behind something? Picture stolen from CO_97 on subaruoutback.org

If one is good, wouldn't two be better? You need to make sure that the subs are phased right with each other and with the door speakers. If you have them out of phase, they will cancle each other out.

If you're going to do streetracing, at least do it during the day so we can see the cars in the video's, not just taillights. BTW, you're going to get a new hole torn for posting streetracing videos.

And if you do have tourque bind, does it go away when you put the FWD fuse in?

You could. It would need an amp, the headunit doesn't put out enough wattage to move the air at low frequency's like a subwoofer would need. I was planning on putting 2 subs in the back, 1 each side, in where the pockets are. I still have the sheet of MDF in my shed for making the enclosuers. Remember that you need some volume in the box behind the speaker to get good sound, so using more than just the space in the pocket would be good.

The parts off of a WRX 2.0l turbo would be a much closer bolt on than the EA82t parts by miles.

Alright, here's how NH state inspection works. There's the regular safety inspection, then there is the NHOST plugin. This is a computer hooked up to the DMV that plugs into your OBDII port. The key must be on, and often the car needs to be running. The computer in your car tells the NHOST whether it's commanding the MIL on or not, and why. Pulling the bulb will not trick the inspection computer. The NHOST will fail a car without it's readiness moniters complete. These are self tests that the car's computer runs to check it's systems. The reason it will fail is that these moniters are being used as the emmisions testing. If they aren't complete, it isn't a valid test. Clearing codes also clears the monitors, so even if the check engine light isn't on, it will fail unless put through the driving conditions to pass the monitors. NH uses this system in place of the sniffers that other states use. It's cheaper, and we're all about being cheap in this state. The problem with 95 and 96 subarus is that they don't do their readieness moniters very fast. It often takes months to get it to finish it's own self tests. The NHOST won't fail a subaru if it's readiness moniters aren't complete, that's what the exception is for. Now, if you clear your codes, you will probably be able to drive for a bit before the MIL comes back on. If you get it inspected during this time, you can't be failed for not having completed the monitors. 97 and up subarus will fail though.

Or put a manual rack in. The EA82 manual racks really aren't bad. They handle nice.

Or you could fix it. ElectricMonk's description in this thread is good.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4189&highlight=air+ride+replacement

Highly unlikely, but it could be the rear diff. I was out "rotating" the tires one night, and I blew the rear diff. It would work pretty well under load from the engine, couple of skips here and there, but it would make god awful noises when I coasted. I drove it home with the E-brake on so it staid loaded. Worked untill the last hill, accidently coasted, crunch the diff was gone.

My local radio shack deny's that the part # is valid. ANyone know a cross referenced # I could use?

For the battery placement, you can use the space the gas tank takes up, and the smugglers hatch in the back. You could put a few in the back seat floor pans and box them off. You could compensate for the extra weight by putting accord spings in the back. It's a cool project. If you live in a windy spot, you could put up a self built windmill to do some charging.

Reviving an old thread, but I've been hitting the same rev limiter. I've been beating the bag out of my 92 legacy motor (it's running on 3 cyl's, why not?) and it bounces off the limiter around 6750. It's getting annoying. It's my engine, I should be able to abuse it as I please. I know there's probably nothing I can do about it, it just pisses me off that it's there.

I'd say you would save a fair bit. There are 2 u-joints, the ring and pinion, the carrier bearings (both of which run in 90 weight oil), and 4 cv joints. The weight isn't that much, but the frictional losses are. There is noticiable resistance when you're just hand spinning the wheels with the rear end lifted up. That resistance goes way up the faster the shafts are turning. I'd say that you would save noticeable amounts of fuel by dropping the two rear halfshafts. If mine weren't rusted solid to the stub axels in the back, I'd do it when I travel out to wyoming. How close togther are you doing the two cross country trips? Taking the same route? You could run a test, keep track of your milage with them in one way, and out the other.

I read a book once about a guy who had solar panels on his roof of his barn that he used to recharge his subaru wagon. The car ended up wrapped around a phone pole, but before then it worked well. For the life of me I can't remember the title or the author.

"Production of R12 or CFC-12 was halted by the clean air act on January 1, 1996. Today the remaining supplies are product which has been recovered and reclaimed back to a chemically pure state in accordance with ARI-700 standards. The ARI standard is basically a virgin specification. The supply of virgin product is limited as most of the virgin was depleted in the first and second years after production ceased." from: http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/cabs/usenv.html "In 2001, the United States consumed 97.1 quadrillion Btu (quads) of energy, representing 24% of total world primary energy consumption." This is why what our countries do matters. Think about that, 1/4 of the world's total energy use is being used by one country, with a comparably small population. This means that each person in the US has a much larger effect on what hapens to the environment than a person in the third world. http://static.teriin.org/opet/articles/art1.htm "In 1997, per capita energy consumption in India was 12.4 million Btu (British thermal unit), compared to 351.9 million Btu in the US and a world average of 64.8 million Btu." But we should stay to A/C, and not turn into an off-topic enviro issues fight.

What's involved with that? I'm putting in the control stalk for the rear wiper out of a 97 outback. The wiring for the rear wiper is in the car, and the squirter hose is run from front to back. I can get the washer tank and motor, the relay, and the control stalk cheap.