jseabolt

I made the plate out of piece of alumnium I found in the scrape metal bin at work. It was tough trying to cut this stuff on a bandsaw because the pneumatic clamps that holds it in place are so strong it tends to bend sheet metal. If I had a metal brake I could have made it out of a solid piece but trying to bend a piece of metal straight in a bench vice and a hammer is near impossible. So I decided to bend the tabs in my bench vice and epoxy them to the backside of the plate.

I use Novus plastic polish. I bought this years ago to polish the windows on my Jeep's softop. Funny. I've seen some cars with cloudy headlights and others without. What causes this? Material of the plastic? Would it matter if the car is garage kept or parked outside all the time? I've had my Baja since 2002 and it stays inside my garage most of the time if I'm not driving it. The headlights look as great as the day I bought it. Dad use to own a 2002 Jetta. He bought this car when it was about 2-3 years ago. Headlights were badly clouded. My wife's 2003 Nissan 350Z were clouded as well. The headlights on my 1996 Ford Explorer are not clouded. I believe this car spent most of it's life outside in the weather because the tires were dry rotted when I got it. So I'm not sure if sitting outside in the weather clouds headlights or not.

I hardwired my Sirius reciever in my 2003 Baja the other day. I removed the 6 disk CD changer and cubby hole. If I had done it different I would have moved the radio to the bottom and moved the plate between the radio and heater contol panel. That way I could see the artist and song better. This plate could also be used for a GPS, backup camera or cell phone holder. More photos: http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/Subaru/

Blew an inner CV joint boot on my Baja the other day. It blew that hi-temp CV joint grease all over the exhaust system. It wouldn't come off with engine degreaser or burn off so I had to wipe everything down with a diesel soak rag. A $15 fix but took me 6 hours to from start to finish". Where the Oxygen sensor failure was a $200/15 minute fix. I found a Subaru axle is allot easier to remove than on a 4 speed Yugo yet there is no pin to drive out on the Yugo. Just not enough clearance to pull the axle out of the transmission. The hard thing on the Subaru is getting that pin out. Too much crap in the way to get leverage on a hammer and punch. I finally remove the air intake system which gained me some clearance. I sure hope the other side doesn't crap out. I'm not sure how to get to the pin on that side. Perhaps remove the washer tank like I did to get to the spark plugs. The Chilton's manual which covers 2000 to 2006 Legacy, Forester and Bajas says "Earler modes" have this "spring pin" but later models do not. I drove the pin back in but it makes me wonder if this pin is really nessessary. If the later models do not use this pin then is there just not a hole there for a pin? Isn't it more common for the outers to blow than the inners?

Couldn't resist doing a little back yard drifting in the Soob. OK, maybe not the true definition of drifting but how many non Subarus can do this in slushy snow without getting stuck? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kV-Rm8k6xYw

Thanks. I thought about buying another hose just in case. Which one of these look like the crossover pipe? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=1066&ptset=A&searchfor=Heater+Hose

It's been three years since I bought my 2003 Baja so I think it's about time I replace the antifreeze. On my other cars, I've installed a flush tee in the heater hose going into the top of the engine and backwashed the coolant out the top of the radiator that way. But on a Boxer engine, I have no idea how the coolant is routed on this car. I suppose I could turn the heater valve off start the engine and let the coolant backup in the core and feel which hose is hot and which is cold to determine that way. One heater hose goes into the firewall on the driver's side and connects to a pipe which appears to feed into the intake manifold. The other hose exits the passener side and follows along the other hose but where it connects to the engine, I have no idea. It's buried somewhere. So which hose does the flush tee need to be installed? Also is there a drain on the radiator or do you have to disconnect the lower radiator hose? One thing I was thinking about trying was to backwash the old coolant out, then fill a jug of enough pure antifreeze which would give me a 50/50 mixture. Then connect one of those pumps that goes on the end of a drill and pump the new antifreeze into the motor while pushing the water out the top of the radiator. Then put the radiator cap back on. That way I wouldn't have to bleed the cooling system which is a real pain on one of my other cars. I normally use one of those Lisle coolant funnels on that car.

I don't think the difference in MAP sensors matters. I suppose the best question would be if you ordered a new intake pipe for a 2003 model, would a 2004 model have the same part number? Such as are the throttle bodies the same bore? Did Subaru relocate something (like an A/C compressor) that might conflict. Here's the item I'm talking about. This maybe just another generic photo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weapon-R-dragon-intake-04-05-subaru-baja-2-5L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQitemZ8004065643QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

My Baja has been really good so far. It's got about 20,000 miles on it. It's a 5 speed so I'm not experiencing any transmission problems some of the other Baja owners have complained about. But I will say that Subarus have the worst clutch system. I have to rev it a bit higher and let out on the clutch a bit slower than my other 5 speed cars otherwise the car takes off like a dumptruck. Some one explained it was because of the AWD system. That everything has to be in motion or it doesn't go as smooth. The only thing I had to have the dealership "fix" was the bed extender. I left it out for a month and it contracted 3". So I had to have the dealership put it back it. About the only thing I can say bad about the Baja other than the clutch system are the tires. Bridgestone tires are pathetic. When below freezing they thump like a set of old bias ply tires. Last time I rotated them they made a roaring sound even though I had rottated them twice before. After 1500 miles the roaring sound went away. I suppose when the tread wore down. Tire wire is even but at 20,000 miles they are more than half worn out. I figure they wont make it to 30,000 miles. I rotate them every other oil change (about every 6000 miles). I'm getting a set of Michelins next time. Bridgestone tires are junk.

If I were to get one of these Kennedy conversation plates to link a Subaru engine to a VW transmission, I would most likely build an adapter in place of the throttle body so I could bolt a carb on it. I know that sounds sort of old school. The thing I can figure out is the ignition. When did Subaru go away from distributors? Say if I wanted to use a 2.2 liter. How could you control the ignition system without a computer since allot of cars today use a coil pack. Even if it did use a distributor how could you control the advance since once again the computer usually adjusts electronically.

A guy on Ebay is selling these intake systems. I was going to build one myself but for $100 why bother? I had one of these systems on my Jeep Wrangler and it really made of difference, although the intake noise was herendous. I suppose that is the tradeoff . But I also got a throttle body that had been modified. It looked like they machined a lip off the base. I think the guy selling these is into BMWs so he probably doesn't know this but if this pipe is listed for a 2004 to 2005 model would it fit a 2003 model? I'm not aware of any external engine compartment differences between 2003 and 2004 models.

My 2003 Baja has about 14,000 miles on it and from day one has this weird intermittant clutch shudder. Sort of like if I were learning to drive a stick shift. Well I've been driving stick shifts for 18 years and know how to drive one by now. In order to prevent the car from shaking violently when releasing the clutch (like I would on any other car with a manual transmission), I have to rev it just a bit higher and let out on the clutch just a bit slower. I used to think it did this worse when cold but it's more of a random condition. I've read this is a common problem with Subarus and I should take it to the dealership and have it checked out. I was told by some members I had a defective clutch. So a few months ago I called the local dealership to set up an appointment. Well guess what, they had never heard of this! Sort of got the impression they would find nothing wrong and just tell me I didn't know how to drive a car with a manual transmission. OK first question. What's the cause of this? A defective pressure plate? Second, can someone tell me the service bulletin number so I can tell the dealership since they have never heard of it. Maybe this will set them on the right track. I shouldn't have to drive this car any different than any of my other cars to prevent it from jerking and going on.

I'm a fairly slender guy (got a 34" waist) but it's still much easier to lift the car up at least 6". The oil filter is not as easy to get to like my Fiat Spider or Ford Fairlane because of the splashshield. First time I changed the oil I neglected to read the owners manual and changed the filter without raising the car or removing the splashshield! Now the question is, is the crossmember your referring the bar that runs underneath the firewall? This is the first car with a boxer engine I've ever owned and the crossmember is not in the typical place. My floorjack can't reach the firewall from the front of the car.

No, I'm not talking about what Scott did to his Brat. Nice job on his work none the less. I was impressed at Carlisle. I'm talking about where do you place a floor back if you want to raise the front end of the ground on a Legacy/Baja so you can slide ramps under the tires or put the car on stands in order to rotate them or change the oil? Every car I've seen has a crossmember wheather front of rear wheel drive where you can place a floorjack. On my Baja the closest thing that looks like a crossmember runs side to side under the firewall. There is no way I can get a jack there. Also on the rear. Once again there is usually a differential or some sort of obvious jacking point. But just like the rear I can't find a suitable spot. And I didn't want to start jacking on the differential (if that's what it's called). Last time I put the front end on ramps, it took me longer to do this than it did to actually change the oil. Well actually I rotated the tires while I was at it. I had to put the floorjack under the mounts commonly used when changing a flat tire and raise each side one at a time. Very time consuming. All I could find on jacking points had to do with the spare tire jack. Anyone got any photos with arrows pointing to the spots they could send me?

That was me. I started coming to Carlisle about two years ago because my other car hobby is Fiats. One of the guys in our club said if you drive something other than a Fiat to at least include the Fiat club on the tag so they could be counted for some reason. I drove my Spider the first year but for the last two years I've been coming in my Baja. I was amazed at the amount of Subarus there were this year. Last year there were only 4 or 5. Last year I was parked next to a red XT and it's tag said "Triumph club of America" so I figured he had the same idea.

A guy I know who used to service my Honda Prelude bought used engines from Japan. I thought he said they came from wrecked cars since there is no room for junkyards on the island. What's the deal with the mileage limit. You mean once the engine has so many miles on it, it must be replaced?

I always wipe the dipstick off before inserting it back into the tube when I check the level. I never really thought about it until you mentioned that the oil wicks up on the dipstick. Yeah I have noticed that.

The other day I mentioned my '03 Baja was starting to consume oil at 9000 miles. I made an oppointment with the dealer to have this issue and the clutch shudder issue checked out Monday. The lady I talked to on the phone said she never heard of either issue. LOL. I just checked the oil level and it's right on the upper hole in the dipstick. I had been checking the engine after it sat for 12 hours to make sure all the oil has drained out of the camboxes. But this time I checked it after it has sat only for about three hours and the engine is still warm. HMMM. You would think I would get a more accurate level reading when the engine is stone cold. After making an 700 mile round trip to Atlanta the other day the dipstick was showing about 1/4 quart/liter too low. I don't recall adding any more oil. After driving about 100 miles around town, now it's right on the money. I still don't think this is my imagination because I remember adding about 1/2 quart after driving it for 2000 miles. If I had overfilled it then it would be showing up on the dipstick. The other issue is with the clutch. I haven't noticed any clutch shudder in the past couple of weeks. Usually this happens when the car is cold and goes away when the engine is warmed up. I keep the car parked in my basement so it's always around 65F no matter time of the year it is. Before it seemed to happen all the time and now it just pops up every now and then for no apparant reason. I'm wondering if the clutch is getting broke-in and the problem will go away alltogether. What causes Subaru clutch shudder anyway? On a NEW clutch. I could see this happening on a high mileage car say if the clutch springs were worn. The only other car I've ever seen this happen on was my first car. A 1981 Honda Prelude. But that was a high mileage car and who knows what was going on with that thing. Some reason I had to add one of those small bottles of brake fluid once a month to the clutch reservior. I have no idea where the fluid was going! It wasn't leaking it on the carport.

I've been using Castrol 10W 30 year round. I was a bit worried after I did my first oil change when I saw on the cap to use 5 weight oil but after reading the owner's manual 10W 30 is what my climate calls for year round. When the car is due for it's next oil change I think I'll let them do it and keep an eye on the level and when it drops half a quart, I'll bring it back and show the service manager. I can't remember if it was here or on the Yahoo Baja list that someone's Outback was using oil and the dealership had a simple fix for it. I would imagine if an engine is burning oil it's one of three things. Either the oil is getting past the rings, the valve seals or something is messed up with the PVC system. I can't think of any other way oil can get into the combustion chamber.

Here it is: http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/DWKS/POR_DWKS_toolsG_pg2.htm I should have posted it when I mentioned it but i was getting sleep and couldn't remember what I bookmarked it at.

I'm checking the oil while the engine is stone cold. Like after the engine has sat for 12 to 24 hours. I hope burping the cooling system on a Subaru isn't as bad as a Fiat. I own a Fiat Spider and it's a real pain having to burp it. I purchased this neat funnel made by Lisle and it works great. It's a funnel you stick in the neck of the radiator. You over fill the funnel and let the engine idle until the thermostat opens. I can also open the bleed screw and it will relieve the vacuum on the system. I haven't tried it on the Subaru but so far it works great on the Fiat. if anyone is interested, I'll post a link where I got it. I think I paid $20+ shipping for it.

I've been coming to Carilisle for the past couple of years. My Fiat buddies talked me into it. In 2002 I drove my Fiat Spider but because of the crappy weather that year I drove my Baja in 2003. Good thing because the weather was worse this year. I can't imagine it getting any worse this year. I was parked in the "Asian" category so I was located directly behind from my Italian car bretheren. I saw a few other Subarus there as well. Funny that the XT parked next to me had "Triumph club of America" on their registration plate. While I had "Fiat Lancia Unlimited" on mine. I guess he had the same idea in mind. So I'll suppose I'll be in the Baja again this year. Despite the crappy weather I always have a great time. Every year I bring heavier clothing. The first year all I brought was a pair of jeans, some tee shirts and a lightweight jacket. After all it is May right? The drive up Thursday was great but Saturday and Sunday was like winter. Last year the heavy army jacket wasn't enough. So this year if you see a guy walking around in insulated deer hunting coveralls wearing a Russian fur hat, driving a yellow Baja say hello. It will most likely be me. How many people are heading north on I-81? I live in Kingsport TN. I saw someone from Roanoke mentioned somewhere. Most likely I'll be leaving around noon on Thursday and spending the night in Hagerstown then setting up camp on Friday. I wish they would build a better shower facility. You would think with the amount of campers they have, they would have more that three showers. They need to spend some of that money they are racking in and build a better bathhouse. I was trying to dry my hair and brush my teeth and people coming in to use the bathroom acted like I was in their way.

Hello. This is my first post. I bought a 2003 Subaru Baja and love it. I think it's a well built vehicle but so far I have noticed two problems and not sure if I can convince the dealership that I actually have a problem. First problem. The clutch shudders when cold so in the mornings I have to rev the engine to 3000 rpms before letting out on the clutch to prevent it from jerking. The funny thing is when the engine warms up the problem goes away. I've asked some other Subaru owners about this and they say they have had the same problem and to have the dealership to replace the clutch. I figure they would tell me I didn't know how to drive a stick shift and I should work on my driving. Is this a common issue with Subarus? Second problem. I own several old cars so I routinely check the oil in them. I figure I shouldn't have to on my Subaru. After all it's a new car built to 21st century specs and shouldn't consume oil "when new" like cars built back in the days like my dad's 76 Chevy 454. The owner's manual says to expect to add a quart every 1000 miles and sure enough it has since the day he bought it. During the first 3000 miles my Baja did not consume any oil. After the next oil change at 6200 miles still no oil consumption. But at 8200 miles I checked the oil and it had dropped about 1/4 quart. HMMM. After I change the oil (I have been doing my own oil changes), I normally let the engine run for about 10 minutes to check for leaks, let it sit overnight and check it the next day. Usually I have to top it off so perhaps I forgot to last time. Well I topped it off and before assuming I had a problem decided to monitor the level. After putting 700 miles on it this past money on a recent trip hitting speeds of 90 mph at certain times, low and behold, I've lost 1/8 of a quart! What gives? This car has only 9000 miles on it and it's already starting to consume oil? My 94 Jeep Wrangler didn't start to consume oil until it had 30,000 miles on it. And I would rate the Subaru much higher in build quality than my old Jeep so I'm a bit confused. I did a search on these two issues on Yahoo and one "expert" says that oil consumption on Subarus is acceptable at 1 quart every 1500 miles!!! I find that hard to believe. My old Fiat Spider has 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine and only uses a quart every 2000 miles and it's engine was designed back in the 1960s. So is this something I should complain to the dealership about? Right now I'd say my Subaru is averaging a quart every 4000 miles. I don't find that acceptable on a vehicle with only 9000 miles. When this car has 20,000 miles on it, how much oil is it going to consume them? Is the oil consumption going to double? If the car had 50,000 miles on it, I wouldn't have a problem with using a quart every 4000 miles. I paid $25,000 for this car after all was said and done and shouldn't have to check the oil on it as often as I do my 68 Ford, 80 Fiat or 76 Chevy pickup truck. If it doesn't get any worse, I'll accept it. But if this is not normal how can I convince the dealership I have a problem? Other than that, I love my Baja. I think it's a great car. Or is it a truck?