ThosL

I got the spacer online and drilled it out with a drill I picked up at Lowe's, a pita but helped. Thanks for the recommendation it should help others.

This driver's side rear strut had broken off due to rust; I had it welded yesterday, could go back to have more done. https://imgur.com/a/safjv8T

I saw this old thread; my left rear is sagging somewhat due to rust. A local guy said he could weld up the strut tower well without removing the strut for $175 for one unit. Is this possible? I saw this Youtube video which shows a rigorous strip down before welding:

It seemed to help. At first the CEL was flashing; next trip none of that and runs better without sputtering.

The question then is in a working catalytic converter, where does the high oil content exhaust go? The metals turn it into harmless emissions? I'm drilling out the aluminum oxygen sensor extender with a Bosch carbide, diamond tip bit, not easy.

Today, I got a couple of the spark plug extenders, will need to drill out the quarter inch orifice before putting it back in. Also due to the oil burn issue, have stepped up the oil to synthetic 10w 40. I've also thought about pulling the catalytic converter and soaking it in acetone or other solvent as the Cataclean is short term, I don't want to get a clogged cat. converter I had around 3 years ago and replaced it then. I could also just pull out the cat. converter and put pipes in there, not sure how involved that is and what you do with the sensors. 2002 2.5 engine 267K miles.

A question on this remedy for the O2 downstream anti-foul; the ones I got on Amazon are probably 1/4" opening, do these need to be larger, drilled out? Also does the upstream O2 sensor also need one of these.

With 267K plus miles, and burning some oil, I don't see a solution to O2 sensors detecting stuff that the catalytic converter cannot neutralize. So will probably have to live with the periodic loss of power for the duration.....

Also changed out the downstream O2 sensor earlier today, runs a lot better now, no sputtering! The old sensor was carboned up/black soot. New one does not have an opening that I can see.

The mechanic who put it in originally replaced the faulty wheel bearing and ball joint with new parts today; would not take any money for it beyond the parts. That's an impressive honor code. Carquest was over $40 on upper front ball joint wholesale, $65 retail. No wonder Rock Auto is so popular.

Put in an Amazon MAP sensor earlier in the year, could have failed; just google symptoms on these failing. I changed it out again, no big difference; will try the spark plug extender so the p420 code is addressed.

The local junk yard wants $125 for a spindle; I probably got the one that failed from them, so no dice on that.

I assume the Durago unit on Amazon is not a great choice, people complain about it not including seals, etc.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFL8JDI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Junk yard will be my choice, will check Rock Auto

2002 Forester; I found the source of the metal grinding noise; I changed out the brake pads and the driver's wheel was very wobbly. Replaced it with a used hub/knuckle a year and a half or so ago. Probably will look for another as my experience with pressing in new bearings has not been good.

Pulled the plugs, that are in very good shape. I got the PO420 code, catalyst system efficiency, which leads me to believe the catalytic converter after nearly 3 years is clogged up so will use some cat. converter cleaners. This is the end of the 02 sensor.