ThosL

I got the spacer online and drilled it out with a drill I picked up at Lowe's, a pita but helped. Thanks for the recommendation it should help others.

This driver's side rear strut had broken off due to rust; I had it welded yesterday, could go back to have more done. https://imgur.com/a/safjv8T

I saw this old thread; my left rear is sagging somewhat due to rust. A local guy said he could weld up the strut tower well without removing the strut for $175 for one unit. Is this possible? I saw this Youtube video which shows a rigorous strip down before welding:

It seemed to help. At first the CEL was flashing; next trip none of that and runs better without sputtering.

The question then is in a working catalytic converter, where does the high oil content exhaust go? The metals turn it into harmless emissions? I'm drilling out the aluminum oxygen sensor extender with a Bosch carbide, diamond tip bit, not easy.

Today, I got a couple of the spark plug extenders, will need to drill out the quarter inch orifice before putting it back in. Also due to the oil burn issue, have stepped up the oil to synthetic 10w 40. I've also thought about pulling the catalytic converter and soaking it in acetone or other solvent as the Cataclean is short term, I don't want to get a clogged cat. converter I had around 3 years ago and replaced it then. I could also just pull out the cat. converter and put pipes in there, not sure how involved that is and what you do with the sensors. 2002 2.5 engine 267K miles.

A question on this remedy for the O2 downstream anti-foul; the ones I got on Amazon are probably 1/4" opening, do these need to be larger, drilled out? Also does the upstream O2 sensor also need one of these.

With 267K plus miles, and burning some oil, I don't see a solution to O2 sensors detecting stuff that the catalytic converter cannot neutralize. So will probably have to live with the periodic loss of power for the duration.....

Also changed out the downstream O2 sensor earlier today, runs a lot better now, no sputtering! The old sensor was carboned up/black soot. New one does not have an opening that I can see.

The mechanic who put it in originally replaced the faulty wheel bearing and ball joint with new parts today; would not take any money for it beyond the parts. That's an impressive honor code. Carquest was over $40 on upper front ball joint wholesale, $65 retail. No wonder Rock Auto is so popular.

Put in an Amazon MAP sensor earlier in the year, could have failed; just google symptoms on these failing. I changed it out again, no big difference; will try the spark plug extender so the p420 code is addressed.

The local junk yard wants $125 for a spindle; I probably got the one that failed from them, so no dice on that.

I assume the Durago unit on Amazon is not a great choice, people complain about it not including seals, etc.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFL8JDI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Junk yard will be my choice, will check Rock Auto

2002 Forester; I found the source of the metal grinding noise; I changed out the brake pads and the driver's wheel was very wobbly. Replaced it with a used hub/knuckle a year and a half or so ago. Probably will look for another as my experience with pressing in new bearings has not been good.

Pulled the plugs, that are in very good shape. I got the PO420 code, catalyst system efficiency, which leads me to believe the catalytic converter after nearly 3 years is clogged up so will use some cat. converter cleaners. This is the end of the 02 sensor.

Thanks, I'm thinking that the rings/oil burning issue is affecting sensors. A friend thinks it may be a sensor connected to when the car warms up as the issue doesn't develop until then and is sporadic. I've changed fuel filter a year ago, plug wires, pvc unit, 02 sensor, etc.. I'll pull the plugs when it's not raining.

No problem starting; will check plugs, but never saw issues with them in the past.

I changed out the upstream oxygen sensor under the engine, Denso unit. Very tough to get out; less than 3 years old. I showed it to a different mechanic today, it is covered with soot, he says that it is probably running too rich. Is there any remedy for that? The p130 code has not come back up yet, as it usually takes a while. Still getting the performance issue, stuttering occasionally when it's warmed up. Thanks as usual for advice.

So, the O2 sensor (front one) replacement is not indicated? It would not cause the sputtering/stuttering? Updated; changed out the PCV, no real difference. Car is fine until it warms up, then the sputtering, so probably heat related or sensor.

I will ask them, what is customary? The machine shop charged $250 for the half of the engine they worked on. I was getting the following codes before I erased them: p130, 447,452,171, 107. Some of those could have been the result of the loose battery cable. Now just evap. system and 130. I just ordered a PCV, will see if it makes any difference. I pulled the rubber hose off and it seemed as if there was a fair amount of oil below the rubber hose intake.

Oil consumption is not bad, I'd agree the side that was not redone may be the issue.

I have this 2002 Forester with 265K miles that has been stuttering/sputtering in the last month or two. When the timing pulley failed, we had the machine shop do the half of the engine showing the low compression. I'm not getting other codes connected to performance, evaporative cannister, etc., just the p130, which is the front oxygen sensor. I'm getting some oil burning puffs, say when I'm going downhill on the uphill acceleration, burns oil then which I assume is valves. I've changed out the plug wires and ignition coil; I pulled a couple plugs which are ok, the plugs have always been fine. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm thinking the p130 may be indicative of excess exhaust possibly a threat to the cat. converter.

I ordered 5 quarts of high mileage synthetic Valvoline oil on Amazon and an oil filter. They did not mix up the oil, but the filter was the wrong one. What's with their vehicle matching algorithm for auto parts? You click on brand of vehicle and model and year and the matches fail. So I ended up biking down to Auto Zone because I was in the middle of the oil change with oil and filter out; they actually had an OE Subaru oil filter for about $12!

I was stopped by a cop yesterday after dark as he noticed the front beams out; though I usually have the secondary lights on. 2002 Forester. It's hard to know often whether they are on as they are not particularly strong when they are. Is this a known problem? One of the high beams work. I'm thinking replacing the bulb on the one where the high beam is not working is probably the first step. I didn't see fuses burned.

When I finally got a mechanic to check out the Forester today, the P122 stood out, and he said that until that was addressed, transmission diagnosis and work would be ineffective. I remember that I had pulled the sensor off the throttle body and put it back without examining alignment thinking that that was automatic. The mechanic saw the mark on the throttle body and mentioned that. After readjusting the sensor and aligning it properly, the Forester ran like a top.