ThosL

Plug failure within a year caused me unending problems which caused me to change out everything else that I thought could be the cause of sputtering and misfiring. I didn't realize it could be the NGK plugs I put in. Forester is running as well as ever; I put on a couple Cooper tires yesterday that I got from the local junkyard for $50 on the rim each nicely mounted and balanced already.

I'd have to check my order, probably Amazon. I know Home Depot got in trouble as they played games with customers selling DeWalt and other name brand equipment that were either seconds or knock offs.

I put in the recommended NGK plugs a year and a half ago or so; already worn out after 25K miles or less. I kept the Denso Iridiums I had before and the misfiring and sputtering stopped. Forester is running well now.

Glad your fans finally kicked in; our unsung heroes to keep engines within acceptable temp. range. Of course there are short term fixes when the engine is getting too hot such as having the heater on full blast, anti-freezes and mixes with different properties, etc..

Of course, anything mechanical needs to be addressed, however "Lucas" transmission treatment is quite good. Check the fluid, etc.. I did a change and filter replacement last year.

I had the rest of it welded, cost $300 more. It was starting to sag.

It's burning, most likely the part of the engine that is hard to reach.

I spoke to him today: I checked it out, it just needs a radiator and condenser and some front trim parts. "my 2013 Impreza with 185,000 miles. Please let me know if you are interested or what next steps we need to do to see if you are interested. I'll probably start calling junkyards tomorrow but I wanted to check with you first. It doesn't hold fluids – – but after checking on the Internet and seeing testimonials – – I was able to drive it home 6 miles by coasting downhill whenever possible. I'll wait to hear from you." 2013 Impreza 185,000 miles. orinal airbags catalytic converter that passed CT Emissions remote start alloy wheels 4 good tires, donut spare clean interior except tear on edge of driver seat.

I will; he works as a school bus driver so does not have a lot of money to spend on a new car, and as others have said, you can repair the car so it passes all the inspections. If the front end, ie tie rod ends, cv joints etc are not damaged then I'm sure it will be ok. 15 years ago I was hit by another car and after repair it had to go through the inspection upstate.

My 2.5 with 273K miles has been burning oil, I was told upping the thickness would be good, so have been adding Mobil 1 15w-50, synthetic. Someone said that conventional oil may be preferable on high mileage cars. Another piece of advice was to use Rotella 20w 50. Anyone have an objective analysis on the right oil to use?

A friend had the same problem, thought his Subaru Impreza would not pass CT inspection after replacing radiator and compressor. I offered to buy it from him.

I'll second that great saying, a late friend was fond of saying.

I got the spacer online and drilled it out with a drill I picked up at Lowe's, a pita but helped. Thanks for the recommendation it should help others.

This driver's side rear strut had broken off due to rust; I had it welded yesterday, could go back to have more done. https://imgur.com/a/safjv8T

I saw this old thread; my left rear is sagging somewhat due to rust. A local guy said he could weld up the strut tower well without removing the strut for $175 for one unit. Is this possible? I saw this Youtube video which shows a rigorous strip down before welding:

It seemed to help. At first the CEL was flashing; next trip none of that and runs better without sputtering.

The question then is in a working catalytic converter, where does the high oil content exhaust go? The metals turn it into harmless emissions? I'm drilling out the aluminum oxygen sensor extender with a Bosch carbide, diamond tip bit, not easy.

Today, I got a couple of the spark plug extenders, will need to drill out the quarter inch orifice before putting it back in. Also due to the oil burn issue, have stepped up the oil to synthetic 10w 40. I've also thought about pulling the catalytic converter and soaking it in acetone or other solvent as the Cataclean is short term, I don't want to get a clogged cat. converter I had around 3 years ago and replaced it then. I could also just pull out the cat. converter and put pipes in there, not sure how involved that is and what you do with the sensors. 2002 2.5 engine 267K miles.

A question on this remedy for the O2 downstream anti-foul; the ones I got on Amazon are probably 1/4" opening, do these need to be larger, drilled out? Also does the upstream O2 sensor also need one of these.

With 267K plus miles, and burning some oil, I don't see a solution to O2 sensors detecting stuff that the catalytic converter cannot neutralize. So will probably have to live with the periodic loss of power for the duration.....

Also changed out the downstream O2 sensor earlier today, runs a lot better now, no sputtering! The old sensor was carboned up/black soot. New one does not have an opening that I can see.

The mechanic who put it in originally replaced the faulty wheel bearing and ball joint with new parts today; would not take any money for it beyond the parts. That's an impressive honor code. Carquest was over $40 on upper front ball joint wholesale, $65 retail. No wonder Rock Auto is so popular.

Put in an Amazon MAP sensor earlier in the year, could have failed; just google symptoms on these failing. I changed it out again, no big difference; will try the spark plug extender so the p420 code is addressed.

The local junk yard wants $125 for a spindle; I probably got the one that failed from them, so no dice on that.

I assume the Durago unit on Amazon is not a great choice, people complain about it not including seals, etc.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFL8JDI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Junk yard will be my choice, will check Rock Auto