ThosL

Here is an image of the connector: https://i.imgur.com/XigiKkW.jpg What's the chance that it could have been damaged from the other end where it comes from when I pulled it out?

Is there any remedy if you are burning oil? Seems like I used up a quart in around 200 miles. Had the gaskets changed 2 years ago, so probably not a leak. Do the stop leak products work?

I changed out the oil and filter today; was being careless about the oil I was using like the Walmart Super Tech 10W 30. Today used Valvoline non synthetic 5W 30 and Fram regular filter. Also changed out the air filter for the first time in 4 years and 80K or so miles. I added a quart of the Lucas high mileage oil treatment product, about $12. I've heard two people in the last week admit blowing their engines by not checking their oil levels. Both were 2015 or so late model cars. One of the guys at Walmart was talking today to his friend about the advantage of the premium Fram filter, that you don't have to change the oil for 10K or so miles. I'm seeing too much of this irresponsible talk about not checking your oil. What type of oil are you using? Do other motor oils have an advantage?

I could take some pics; tried to push the connection together again today, drove 200 miles. Power issue seems to manifest at start ups and low speed.

I was wondering about the purpose of this mechanism. Thanks for informing me on the fundamentals of this unit. I torqued it down well twice. Still having the same timing off problem.

Performance still indicates bad knock sensor, ordered another one. I reached in there a few days ago to make sure the connector was solid which seemed to address it but the problem of power lag came back. I ordered an apparently oe unit.

That's what I thought as when replacing one on a 2.2, code went away. I ordered another one will see if it makes any difference. I was thinking I might have damaged the core wiring when I pulled the unit out initially. A mechanic's quick change has turned into a major headache. I changed out the coil yesterday, a ten minute job. The old unit had corrosion dust in the wire plug holes!

Ok, timing seemed off today so knock sensor is apparently not working right. Someone said I need to go to the dealer to have them reset it, I have not heard this before. 1997 2.5.

Also many of the OE parts on cars from the 1990s, etc. are gathering dust looking for buyers, just check ebay listings for OE parts of various types. I would not buy from the box stores if you can get the same ones elsewhere. On my knock sensor, no performance issue, was throwing the code. How common is it for the codes thrown to be inaccurate?

There are plenty of OEs on ebay, etc. for under $20 delivered. https://www.ebay.com/itm/22060-AA061-New-Front-Knock-Sensor-for-Subaru-Legacy-Forester-Impreza-2-2-2-5L/402339281418?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3D8036857877cb4ae8aee917033980a4d3%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D192926413511%26itm%3D402339281418%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D5411%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940 It makes no sense to pay $50 plus as Auto Zone quoted me, plus the unit I got is working at this point.

CEL went out, so I will monitor the timing related issues which the knock sensor seems to affect.

I have nearly 280K on the car, makes no sense to pay crazy money on this one as OE units should be a lot more reasonable than that.

Would always pay a reasonable premium for an OE. Auto Zone quoted over $90 for a knock sensor they were selling!

Solved the issue; one of the terminal wires into the battery broke away and was hard to see, easy fix.

If you have a known quantity, the car is serviceable and runs well, keep it; made the mistake before of getting rid of a Subaru that was mechanically excellent that did not look great.

Any trouble shooting thoughts on this? I disconnected battery cables to reset the codes after some work. Reconnected them now no juice? I tried for a jump this morning, no change. I called my tow service company for a jump.

I'd point out that a lot of these knock off units are coming from China, may not be quality, not sure. Just check ebay, units are around ten bucks delivered. Went to Auto Zone yesterday to find the code and sure enough knock sensor still. So I checked the connection and made sure the connection was good, car ran better. I disconnected the cables later to reset the code and now the car has zero juice even with jump cables connected. Will start another thread on that.

What tools make this job easier? Also does the orientation and torque matter that much? Why did this unit come about in the development of the engine? Is it a necessary part of most engines? Are there any tell tale signs of a failed knock sensor?

It was relatively easy on a 2.2 EJ22 due to better access. This one on an EJ25 was a royal pain! #1 access is highly problematic. If the plug on the old unit won't pull apart you will have big problems as the core unit could get damaged. If you get it apart, and then access the bolt with an extended access ratchet, you still have a lot of problems left. So presuming you are able to pull the bolt up, you still have to align the new knock sensor correctly. Then you have to lower the ratchet with extender and bolt correctly through the sensor donut at just the right position through the mounting hole. I used tape to keep the bolt in the ratchet extender, still it fell out and there is no way to reach it with your hands unless you have fingers like a child. All in all an underrated job better left to mechanics. As the do it yourselfer may not have the right tools to do it.

I saw a youtube video, but was not clear with all the dark and a few discernable parts of the engine. I took off the throttle body cover but could not find it. Anyone have a clear picture of where this is? Thanks.

I bought a MAF sensor online. Emissions test is coming up. For a 1997 2.5 the requirements are lax.

Not performance related, as least as far as I could tell. Knock sensor, two misfire codes, MAF sensor and cat converter. I changed the plugs. Would changing out the MAF, knock sensor or coil as recommended make any difference in mileage, etc.?

I drove up there this morning and the address was near a bunch of used car and body shops, etc.. I called the guy who had said for me to stop by after 10am, and he said his brother sold it yesterday! No call or email. I told him he was very rude and unethical the way he was running this vehicle for sale, he said "we're Jewish that's how we do business". Unbelievable. Last time I looked at a Subaru in Bridgeport it turned out being one that had been flipped from someone who worked at Sikorski they paid $1200 put some head gasket sealer in and sold for $3000!

I don't know, this is the listing: https://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/d/norwalk-2004-subaru-forester-awd-auto/7193980069.htm

I have a friend looking for a reliable car, I have recommended Subarus as low maintenance. I am going to check out this one tomorrow in the low $2Ks, what questions should I ask? 2004 Subaru Forester AWD auto 165k miles runs looks great cold a/c. I'm thinking Subaru is going to be the most reliable for Sam. He has had two cars, a Ford Focus and a VW 4 door fail on him in the last couple years. For low maintenance is this a good way to go?