ThosL

This hasn't happened in a while; this morning when not letting the 96 2.2 warm up, I pulled out and a mile down the road ascending a hill a loss of power with CEL. I had to pull over for around a minute then it was OK. There has been no CEL code for a while. Any thoughts on sensors that could be to blame? I changed out the MAF sensor a couple years ago.

I had one vehicle where something went bad in the transmission which was due improper maintenance if I remember right; the others have all been fine. Also Lucas tranny oil treatment is good. I've heard varying opinions on changing the transmission fluid and filter that it may stir stuff up that shouldn't be.

Thanks for the links and information. I don't want to have to print out another ream of data, my brain cells are taxed already. But I will try to look at the online information if my mental attention permits.

I checked out the fuses, one was burned out that works the front wipers and rear water squirt; the front water squirt and rear wiper are not working.

I'll try to trouble shoot it tomorrow. I know both fans are on sometimes. So communication between the electronics may be faulty. Fans have to kick on when the engine builds up excess heat.

When I drove down to Advance tonight to return the Blue Devil, the car overheated when stuck in traffic at a crawl but dropped down to where it should be when I put the heat on high. So maybe the fans aren't kicking on in a timely way.

Ok, thanks a lot for the recommendations. I don't have a bright light but will look for number two.

You would probably need strong evidence and a licensed professional with a strong record in substantiating bad service. Somewhat forensic in requirements. Then do a small claims court action if you have enough evidence. But without 100% certainty there is no case.

I have a 96 Brighton wagon, the rear windshield wiper doesn't work, also the fluid for front one. These aren't connected right? How do professionals analyze fuses, with flashlight? I don't have the owners manual.

I will return the Blue Devil, I have enough challenges. I drove the car over 100 miles today, no issues.

Two fans, they are working. I changed out the thermostat with a Motorad Ultrastat 170 degrees unit. Also Carquest coolant and Blue Devil pour and go which I will probably return. No bubbles in the overflow, but engine seems to be running a little hot, needle of temp is in OK range. Had to burp it out again.

I would trust the experts here, but there remains the possibility of the oil change place messing up. What is their usual step by step procedure? Pull out oil plug, then oil filter replace oil filter after it is drained then plug then refill with oil. If an old filter is still in there then the oil change place probably messed up.

I would scour the online feedback on this shop to see if anyone else had a similar problem; incompetent service rarely happens once, these are lowly paid workers in general. When I went to the local "Splash" car wash that does oil changes years ago, I had a $250 item in the car go missing during the service! I had a police report filed and the two employees who worked on the oil change listed their address as the homeless shelter and the other as the oil change place as their "address". The last person to work on the vehicle is usually the most responsible for what follows. I had an oil pump go bad on a Subaru once and made the mistake of not having it towed immediately.

Thanks for the advice. I have been driving it and watching it like a hawk for any overheating issue. No bubbles coming up in the overflow and I am still trying to bleed it out with the bleed screw on the passenger side. It is still overheating, fan is kicking on, I did nothing with the thermostat, I don't know whether it is Stant (junk) or OE Subaru as needed. Stuck thermostat can wreak havoc. Heat is coming out heater OK. Any other cause for overheating?

Vehicles with problems like this "mechanic specials" are out there in droves; most people would say steer clear of any used vehicles with problems, because something else could be bad in it. Personally if I knew 100% that your analysis was correct and knew how to fix it and could get another 50K plus out of, it would be worth a try at a low price $500-$700 or so.

Ok, thanks for the help and sorry if I got too angry as these problems are very aggravating. I kept trying to do everything to burp it out and finally got the heat back in the heater so it is running well again. Other challenges are things like the lower transmission hose to line without much clearance and the clamp broke and a larger hose clamp did not close out right but I shoved the rubber in well enough so it isn't leaking. I thought I saw some bubbles coming up through overflow but they were small and hopefully not an issue. I ordered the Subaru conditioner.

By the way I found the post rude. I have usually tried to help and hope for the same.

I've already cycled the car several times, running the car after putting in the new radiator, putting in as much water as it would take with the drain screw open. Still no heat. I tried lifting the car with the tire jack, but it didn't lift it that much. Maybe park the car on a steep hill with the front forward and fill it that way?

I don't have a floor jack at my place; I guess I would have to use the tire change jack to do that, does it make that much difference, what about just filling up from the disconnected hose? Is the heater working indicative that the job was done?

I saw this instruction: Isn't there some other way? This strikes me as unnatural, elevate the front of car, how much? Jack it way up?? Which hose needs to be filled? So you have to pull a connected hose off the radiator and actually pour water in??

Is this really that hard? I changed out a new radiator on an EJ22 today, I opened the bleed screw pouring water into the radiator while it was running. 1996 Brighton wagon, EJ22 engine. I'm pretty sure it did not get cooked in the process of running it around, right. I thought these engines are bulletproof. I had the heater on full blast but no heat was coming out, so heater core was not getting circulated water.

I've had Subarus go for over 300K but usually that was several engines. How does he know it was on the same engine? You can always keep looking for the best deal, money doesn't grow on trees.

I hope your car is ok, as others mentioned the 2.5 engines were known for head gaskets failing around 150K, but if they were done like mine, you should be ok and Subaru does make a conditioner that helps with small leaks. I would look at youtube videos and see what real mechanics have to say as here. Two years ago I replaced my radiator, the head gaskets had been done at 150-175K I believe. As it was failing there were minor overheating issues. It runs fine now, no CEL. Also the bleed screws on the top of radiator, can strip out so you have to be careful.

I had the same problem with a 99 Outback that had a 2.2 put in; got a lot of miles though the weight of the car was designed for a 2.5, much stronger engine. I was out in Middletown NY coming back to CT and that center hose went and there are others under there. Probably only seasoned Subaru mechanics know what to look for and if you don't tow it, engine can blow. I tried some Alumiseal, and waiting for the pressure to come back up with the cap off pouring water in and the pressure release loose, when the pressure came back up there was like a line of leaks on the radiator, probably the plastic.

I was checking the water every couple days anyway, so doubt the water got that low. It is astonishing the risk level you take with these Subarus from the 90s when anything in the cooling system goes bad and the engine can quickly get cooked!! To have to call a tow truck for a leak springing up should not be necessary, but apparently is. So on the radiator replacement, Advance auto is around $95 for a Carquest unit discounts worked in. Ebay has some for around $50 delivered. Alumiseal may buy me some time if the leak is in the metal. Finding the source of the leak can be tough.