ThosL

I would trust the experts here, but there remains the possibility of the oil change place messing up. What is their usual step by step procedure? Pull out oil plug, then oil filter replace oil filter after it is drained then plug then refill with oil. If an old filter is still in there then the oil change place probably messed up.

I would scour the online feedback on this shop to see if anyone else had a similar problem; incompetent service rarely happens once, these are lowly paid workers in general. When I went to the local "Splash" car wash that does oil changes years ago, I had a $250 item in the car go missing during the service! I had a police report filed and the two employees who worked on the oil change listed their address as the homeless shelter and the other as the oil change place as their "address". The last person to work on the vehicle is usually the most responsible for what follows. I had an oil pump go bad on a Subaru once and made the mistake of not having it towed immediately.

Thanks for the advice. I have been driving it and watching it like a hawk for any overheating issue. No bubbles coming up in the overflow and I am still trying to bleed it out with the bleed screw on the passenger side. It is still overheating, fan is kicking on, I did nothing with the thermostat, I don't know whether it is Stant (junk) or OE Subaru as needed. Stuck thermostat can wreak havoc. Heat is coming out heater OK. Any other cause for overheating?

Vehicles with problems like this "mechanic specials" are out there in droves; most people would say steer clear of any used vehicles with problems, because something else could be bad in it. Personally if I knew 100% that your analysis was correct and knew how to fix it and could get another 50K plus out of, it would be worth a try at a low price $500-$700 or so.

Ok, thanks for the help and sorry if I got too angry as these problems are very aggravating. I kept trying to do everything to burp it out and finally got the heat back in the heater so it is running well again. Other challenges are things like the lower transmission hose to line without much clearance and the clamp broke and a larger hose clamp did not close out right but I shoved the rubber in well enough so it isn't leaking. I thought I saw some bubbles coming up through overflow but they were small and hopefully not an issue. I ordered the Subaru conditioner.

By the way I found the post rude. I have usually tried to help and hope for the same.

I've already cycled the car several times, running the car after putting in the new radiator, putting in as much water as it would take with the drain screw open. Still no heat. I tried lifting the car with the tire jack, but it didn't lift it that much. Maybe park the car on a steep hill with the front forward and fill it that way?

I don't have a floor jack at my place; I guess I would have to use the tire change jack to do that, does it make that much difference, what about just filling up from the disconnected hose? Is the heater working indicative that the job was done?

I saw this instruction: Isn't there some other way? This strikes me as unnatural, elevate the front of car, how much? Jack it way up?? Which hose needs to be filled? So you have to pull a connected hose off the radiator and actually pour water in??

Is this really that hard? I changed out a new radiator on an EJ22 today, I opened the bleed screw pouring water into the radiator while it was running. 1996 Brighton wagon, EJ22 engine. I'm pretty sure it did not get cooked in the process of running it around, right. I thought these engines are bulletproof. I had the heater on full blast but no heat was coming out, so heater core was not getting circulated water.

I've had Subarus go for over 300K but usually that was several engines. How does he know it was on the same engine? You can always keep looking for the best deal, money doesn't grow on trees.

I hope your car is ok, as others mentioned the 2.5 engines were known for head gaskets failing around 150K, but if they were done like mine, you should be ok and Subaru does make a conditioner that helps with small leaks. I would look at youtube videos and see what real mechanics have to say as here. Two years ago I replaced my radiator, the head gaskets had been done at 150-175K I believe. As it was failing there were minor overheating issues. It runs fine now, no CEL. Also the bleed screws on the top of radiator, can strip out so you have to be careful.

I had the same problem with a 99 Outback that had a 2.2 put in; got a lot of miles though the weight of the car was designed for a 2.5, much stronger engine. I was out in Middletown NY coming back to CT and that center hose went and there are others under there. Probably only seasoned Subaru mechanics know what to look for and if you don't tow it, engine can blow. I tried some Alumiseal, and waiting for the pressure to come back up with the cap off pouring water in and the pressure release loose, when the pressure came back up there was like a line of leaks on the radiator, probably the plastic.

I was checking the water every couple days anyway, so doubt the water got that low. It is astonishing the risk level you take with these Subarus from the 90s when anything in the cooling system goes bad and the engine can quickly get cooked!! To have to call a tow truck for a leak springing up should not be necessary, but apparently is. So on the radiator replacement, Advance auto is around $95 for a Carquest unit discounts worked in. Ebay has some for around $50 delivered. Alumiseal may buy me some time if the leak is in the metal. Finding the source of the leak can be tough.

Glad to hear you had your problems resolved. I found out the radiator is failing which probably had a slow leak all along. I will have to replace that to drive the car.

Ok, I connected the two leads under the dashboard and they are on all the time. A couple days ago, on a hot day the fans were not cycling and the 2.2 overheated, not terribly but water was lost, now I am trying to burp the cooling system again and get the air out.

When I have looked there are literally no quality Subarus with minimal issues under $2000 in this area.

Thanks for the advice. I tried to look under the front end but there is so little space to get under it and I would need a flashlight to find unplugged units.

I'm having non functioning cooling fans as well. So the cooling system must have working fans? CEL has not been going on. Sorry to bother anyone but steps again on this, could it be fuses?? 2.2.

Thanks for the thought on this old topic, I was just looking at the thread now years later. In retrospect the problems that none of the shops around here could figure out would have been resolved with MAF, starter coil, burping the coolant system and probably the spark plug wires. The 2.2 has been running like a top lately, one of the best Subarus I have driven. One of the local guys, "Lenny" said the car had "a lot of problems" that he didn't think could be fixed and just wagged his head.

Front knuckle still Ok, much better than replacing bearings with possibly damaged hubs.. I had two of those done on a 99 that both went bad in two years. Estimate from shop that did the previous work replacing hub bearings that went bad: over $1500!

Ok, thanks for the advice. I did clean it out last week when someone sounded serious but he didn't have the money.

Actually addressed all the CEL issues; changed out wires, did the body work, burped the coolant system that finally fixed a nagging problem, it would heat up then sometimes accelerating up hill would suddenly have a spaz attack. Not any more with the coolant system burped. Only real issues I can see is that the tires will need to be changed out in 5-10K and the rear wiper. https://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/d/new-canaan-1996-subaru-legacy-brighton/6955343208.html

Unfortunately this is status conscious Fairfield County, CT where people want status cars...A functional econobox is much better than the popular Jeeps, etc. but harder to sell. The Au Paire girl who came to check it out was focused on the brakes, maybe not enough "grab" for her but pads are cheap and easy to install as I explained.

An older sister who went into assisted living a few months ago necessitates our selling a 1996 Subaru Wagon. I got several codes at Auto Zone: misfires on two cylinders, 301/302; Catalyst system issue, P420; also P115 Coolant circuit. I'm getting a little red light on the air bag, not sure if that indicates a faulty unit. I pulled the battery cables, so the CEL, etc. didn't come on. I used the guaranteed to pass gas product and changed out the spark plug wires. I drove around 40 miles before the test at emissions, and the guy passed it though the sensors were not all "ready". What is it worth at 200K, good body, though; fixed a couple rust spots today. No real issues except rear window wiper doesn't work?? My brother did body filler on rust holes in back.