ThosL

Front knuckle still Ok, much better than replacing bearings with possibly damaged hubs.. I had two of those done on a 99 that both went bad in two years. Estimate from shop that did the previous work replacing hub bearings that went bad: over $1500!

Ok, thanks for the advice. I did clean it out last week when someone sounded serious but he didn't have the money.

Actually addressed all the CEL issues; changed out wires, did the body work, burped the coolant system that finally fixed a nagging problem, it would heat up then sometimes accelerating up hill would suddenly have a spaz attack. Not any more with the coolant system burped. Only real issues I can see is that the tires will need to be changed out in 5-10K and the rear wiper. https://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/d/new-canaan-1996-subaru-legacy-brighton/6955343208.html

Unfortunately this is status conscious Fairfield County, CT where people want status cars...A functional econobox is much better than the popular Jeeps, etc. but harder to sell. The Au Paire girl who came to check it out was focused on the brakes, maybe not enough "grab" for her but pads are cheap and easy to install as I explained.

An older sister who went into assisted living a few months ago necessitates our selling a 1996 Subaru Wagon. I got several codes at Auto Zone: misfires on two cylinders, 301/302; Catalyst system issue, P420; also P115 Coolant circuit. I'm getting a little red light on the air bag, not sure if that indicates a faulty unit. I pulled the battery cables, so the CEL, etc. didn't come on. I used the guaranteed to pass gas product and changed out the spark plug wires. I drove around 40 miles before the test at emissions, and the guy passed it though the sensors were not all "ready". What is it worth at 200K, good body, though; fixed a couple rust spots today. No real issues except rear window wiper doesn't work?? My brother did body filler on rust holes in back.

I'll let him know; I thought it might have been a Subaru defect; so very likely the fault is with him. I used to like the idea of less automatic stuff with cars, but this clearly shows a set up for breakdown for those who don't handle the equipment right.

My brother has had this happen twice on two different similar era vehicles. Is this a known problem with these and was there a recall? He said it was going to be expensive, $1500 plus from a very affordable mechanic.

I work at a big box retailer with 100K plus products, today got some yet again with generators that won't start; I had to educate them on the dangers of alcohol in gas, I wonder how many of our Subaru problems are due to problem fuel? Running the car down to one gallon left or so? Remedies?

OK, not sure why the mechanic said he checked with the parts store and a new pump was $200 so he went with used. It looks like Advance has them for a lot less as their usual retail which you can get online discounts on: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/fuel-pump/15378?krypto=16ltsxXemOT95rflFF%2BrHWRYPSnT3x7uNZhTovA0LHvnnDsP98J5XOYlD1ZHqu8T7KUmuMp2NORkO58ms44gD8pzXB866lju8jVE1caVii9W2Y7TGID0EpCfo8ntzou4ybhIkrNqVnvrikZfFg%2BGbfT6TzZpdtMqor1o2uF2b2SwH3EleqoWJ1sqNaNIz%2Fq5KzeOJHDmM826GzNE%2FQMdG5YkLFQqBt95xDSnzLcpWLcN0gJalYK9Rim6ZfyVPSqsQycWRTxjcgkLQMqyrErdy%2Bz6IgXTrHaDsgYgkd0s642BMHkyICWoYuNyatXf1l2BMGLBwEJ2rrzoICbDdFXtUQ%3D%3D

$225 was fair for a 97 2.5; quick turn around time; I don't know any shop around here who would have done it for under $300 and most don't put in used units, so not sure why experts are critical here on price when they said that valve cover, cam cover gasket replacement, etc. would be a lot more than the same mechanic did for $300 plus parts and threw in welding on exhaust and changing out a couple coolant system hoses.

My Subaru started up in a grocery parking lot yesterday as I was driving toward the main road I lost power fairly quickly. I figured the timing belt broke. I was hoping low RPMs meant the engine wasn't damaged as can happen. I had it towed to my mechanic who got to it today. Different verdict; the fuel pump had died. Fast efficient replacement with a used unit, $225. What would be the tell-tale difference between the two failures, timing belt vs. fuel pump?

Not that hard to fix; got staggering estimate from local shop on my sister's car for that and other issues, that were tune up related. I got a good used unit, end of story, no problems followed.

I was able to get the valve cover, cam seal and crank shaft seals/covers done for $300 plus parts. Labor in this area runs cheap; I've been doing logging oriented work in the area for less than I was making 20 years ago.

I would only go to dealerships for recalls or other service covered, because their prices are very high retail, they're greedy and take advantage of customers as others have said. Subarus are not that complicated, there are many mechanic shops around here and probably most geographic zones, even in the South.

Book value, which is what the tax assessors value them tends to be kind of high. Maybe $1000-$1500. You could try Lucas if the tranny has some manageable problems, would buy you some time.

What are the going costs of a valve cover gasket job, or projected labor time? Also for Cam seal leak?

I took some pictures after using the degreaser: https://i.imgur.com/2aKD2it.jpg https://i.imgur.com/J9zs0HE.jpg

Good video by a professional on this:

I checked the leak, below the oil fill spout, probably the valve cover gasket on that side? Other possibilities, cam cover a mechanic said, or damaged thread on oil filter? My best guess is the valve cover gasket.

My brother said I needed to watch the consequences on oil leaks as some customers will freak out on oil on their driveway, it didn't occur to me, adding a quart a week is a lot cheaper than mechanical work but something I need to get done.

It is getting a lot harder to find compatible 15 inch tires; the trend is away from those.

The dip stick may be off; when I have checked it, it barely registers. Adding a quart and it soars up. There is a limit what do it yourselfers can do. The clearances are so small with the 2.5 units, I don't see how I could change out the gaskets. Does mixing oil cause problems? 10-30 with 20-50 with HD30, etc.. At a lot of the oil supply places there is not a good range of supply of motor oil.

I'll check the oil again this am; I had switched to 20w50, not sure if that caused the problem. Car is running like a top.

I checked with Town Fair periodically and they have a 30 day trial on new tires. I got a set of 4 Toyo tires which were almost new, they had a Maine warehouse ship them down; $50 each and I had a local tire place mount and balance them for $15 each. My guess is that other tire places have trials like this then they need to sell the tires. No guarantee though.

I have a 97 2.5 Outback that has had a slow leak in the valve cover gasket. However I just checked it and the stick was barely showing much oil after adding 3 quarts. Lhe oil warning light had gone on the dash. Aside from the involved job of changing the gaskets is there any stop gap measure? Lucas oil leak product?