ThosL

i'm sorry to hear of your problem and hope it isn't a bad head gasket. Thankfully my 97 2.5 engine is running well; I bought the recommended leak fix with a minor issue. HG jobs are quite expensive so hope you don't need it.

This is a common defect, most of the ones I've had have had rusty latches. Hit with WD40 or PB Blaster?

I don't have much in the way of tools, no power tools or breaker bar, etc., but I appreciate the encouragement on do it yourself. I'll try to get to the junk vehicle place, $100 for a set of springs/struts if they are in good shape seems cheap, installation around $200 for the pair. I'm hearing clatter of loose parts in the front right unit.

I have been using the Walmart Supertech regular motor oil at around two and a half bucks, is this a decent oil? Also last oil change I added the Lucas stop leak product. https://www.google.com/search?q=SuperTech+10W30+Motor+Oil,&rlz=1C1AOHY_enUS711US716&ei=bTOzWaPgBYzZjwSVu7PwCQ&start=10&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=711 Thanks.

Here is a list of water pumps for my 2.5 Legacy: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1997,legacy,2.5l+h4,1269985,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 No significant pricing difference from the substandard to quality.

I checked around with a local junkyard, you can get full strut/spring assemblies for around $100 a pair, installation is a lot easier than just the strut.

I've been checking out Rock Auto for reasonably priced Subaru parts, I could have gotten a Bosch water pump for what I paid for a Carquest unit, only drawback is the shipping wait.

Glad to hear; the only place to go with stolen vehicles is either as a fake plate car or the chop shop, and used parts aren't worth that much.

I'd never do a loan or a big ticket purchase when it isn't hard for find Subarus under $3K that are fully serviceable and get you from point A to B readily.

It is impossible to know if it was destined to fail or whether it was mounted improperly, he showed the bad unit to me but I could not differentiate between what it would have looked like had it not been loose for a while. I heard looseness on Sunday and then no more noise that I remember. I asked the shop if they checked it out for condition when they did the water pump and he dismissed that as expecting too much of mechanics. Maybe if it were sufficiently defective when the water pump job was done they would have noticed?

The pulley came off, actually there was no symptom yesterday, in the morning it started up, I got the usual warning lights no power steering, had it towed. I was relying on the response I got on this thread to assume that the last person who worked on it probably did not what they should have, or examine the pulley when they did the water pump. They got it back together charged me half of parts. My car insurance offers free roadside assistance and better towing than AAA.

The car has over 230K miles on it, no problem before they did the job. It was loose I think, I suspected something but did not know how to diagnose it. I paid to have it towed, it should be the shop's responsibility.

I have a Legacy Outback where the pulley failed a couple weeks after the waterpump was replaced. The mechanic said that it was the pulley that failed, not his problem, could there be a connection? It's the pulley in front that drives the power steering belts, etc..

I have had about 8 Subarus over the years, from a 1984 1.8 wagon to a '99 Outback. In terms of part failures, the only ones I would characterize as abnormally fast failures would be CV joints. I had an oil pump fail on one, unfortunately I did not pull it over and have it towed immediately, I suspect that was an original pump. I have had front wheel bearings fail, I suspect most of those were original, though I had a local expert garage install a set of those to the front wheels which failed in less than 2 years, which may have been due to the hubs having been compromised, no discount was offered by that shop at that point. I have had a few head gaskets fail, hoses around the top of the engine, etc.. There are probably failure rate studies that have been done by Subaru with all the benefits and business they would get by publishing those. I replaced a set of spark plug wires with NGKs I got at the junkyard with little wear, I had tried to find them on ebay/Amazon without luck for under $40.

I will have to admit that I am not aware of problems that come with largely imported substandard quality of replacement auto parts. I apologize if I upset experts in the field on another thread. What are we talking about on this issue, 5% short term failures, 10%? Share your experience on where the abuses with the problem replacement auto parts have caused. Air bags I hear are a significant issue, engine parts, cooling system, transmission parts, front end and suspension, exhaust systems, brakes, additives; and tangential parts to the main operating systems. Here is a link to a query on google in the last year: https://www.google.com/search?q=chinese+auto+parts+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=chinese+auto+parts+problems&tbs=qdr:y What would legal remedies be? Class actions against manufacturers, complaints filed with your state attorney general or consumer rights commissioner. When I have had problems with a product from an auto parts store, I have tried to get refunds first from the store, then corporate, the credit card and finally with the state oversight legal department, usually I get results that way.

I agree that oe is better that's why I said installing used units is preferable, and I have gone down to the area junkyard to do just that plus save money. And someone here said that was the worst piece of advice he has ever heard... I'm out of work, don't get a plug nickel from the government or investments; a lot of people cannot afford high priced jobs. If you think all the non-NAPA or dealer parts are such junk then sue the bad manufacturers instead of jumping all over me.

Your hubris and arrogance is damaging to free and vital debate. If you don't have verifiable evidence with statistics to back it up than keep your yap shut.

The last time I had the job done was by F and S in Waterbury, one of the best Subaru mechanics around and the price was about the same. With mechanics charging too much on these jobs turning simple mechanical work into a religion, it isn't surprising that jobs don't get done on time leading to more serious mechanical, economic and other problems or customers look elsewhere. The perfect is the enemy of the good. With Subarus that are 20 years old you don't have to go to dealers or demand oe parts. Personally I would go for recycled parts off other Subarus but a lot of mechanics insist on putting in their own new parts and making money on that end too. Plus if you are going to slam, slander or defame non-oe manufacturers, you had better have a lot of studies and real, verifiable statistics--instead of anecdotal evidence to back it up.

The pump was "Carquest" from Advance. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-water-pump-t2254/3130258-P?searchTerm=water+pump The local shop is excellent, they will put in your parts or used ones from the boneyard. I consider comments about it being too cheap to be off the wall elitist, as I have had two water pump jobs on the same era Subarus for around $300 labor. Mechanic gets $150 shop gets $150 or so. What the heck is low about that? In this economy, are you kidding me?

I got some of the 3M aluminum tape with the high temperature metal cement and two hose clamps, hopefully it will hold.

I may try that but the pipe is tapered into the joint so unless the aluminum tape is formable, it may not be possible to get the effect with the hose clamps.

The pipe in back of the cat converters on my 97 Outback sprung a break; I picked up a couple high temperature fixes, will update on results. I'm sure industry has all types of fixes in addition to welding.

Do any of the exhaust system patches work? There are many products, I am surprised in this day and age there are not products that would seal leaks. Are there any epoxies, wraps or other products that help that?

It did not look worn; the water pump was leaking a little, less than a quart every few days, but the last Subaru it became more of a problem, I suppose when the shaft starts leaking.

I had the mechanic replace the water pump and timing belt, neither showed much wear or breakdown but probably better sooner than later? Water pump/timing belt were probably replaced with the engine job in the last 10 years or so. Total cost: $300 labor plus tax; $65 for parts.