ThosL

Keep us updated; since you can't successfully nullify the vin number, I'm not sure how thieves would fence this one, chop shops aren't going to give you much. Think like a criminal and fight them on that basis. The vehicle I had stolen in the 1980s turned up after a joyride by some punks days later.

I hope a police report was filed within a day of the theft. Set your Craigslist notifications for your Subaru Brat as you could set it up as soon as one surfaces. Also look at all ways the thieves could fence it. Transporting across state lines is also a very serious crime. Hope you track it down, do research on how people have been successful retrieving their cars, happened to me once.

Do water pumps leak on and off if they are in decline? I had it checked out by a local mechanic earlier in the week, he did not have the vehicle running while on the lift, so is accurate diagnosis still likely? It can go quite a distance well over 100 miles without leaking significantly, assuming I am losing water out there. I will check again all hoses, and the overflow tank to see if this is really the problem.

Once I got the coil today, I pulled out the old one and then found it was not compatible. Good guy at Advance came out who is working on his mechanic certification and the wire was literally broken down corroded in the socket. So once I cleaned out the coil receptacle hole, I could put the old wire back in, no bad stuttering but the wire will need to be replaced. I heard Rock Auto is good, beats the $50 plus I see at Advance and Auto Zone.

It's the coil, I saw the sparks jumping out of it periodically. I'll check around on this as it is pretty bad.

Is the diagnostic for coil failing hard start up, with check engine light flashing and then that going away when it heats up?

97 Outback 2.5. My guess is wires too. I ordered what I thought was an OE set on ebay for around $30 but had to cancel it when I realized it was only one.

I ran a test at Auto Zone: It came back as ignition coil, based on: PO301 PO302 PO303 PO304 PO400 egr P1100 low input. I'm thinking wires as when it warms up it runs well. I don't think I've changed them since I bought it, a year ago.

I ran a test at Auto Zone: It came back as ignition coil, based on: PO301 PO302 PO303 PO304 PO400 egr P1100 low input. I'm thinking wires as when it warms up it runs well. I don't think I've changed them since I bought it, a year ago.

Very likely it's the plug wires. I will have to buy a set of those for around $30.

Cold or wet in the morning, vehicle runs crappy until it really warms up. Check engine light flashes. Once it warms up in 15 minutes or longer it runs well.

Wow, I thought the pre-2004 Subarus were the problems with all the head gasket failures. Personally I would like everything manual as much as possible from windows to tranny to hi and low gear and stick shift. You are basically screwed with extensive electrical or computer problems. I guess I should be happy with my under $1000 97 limited.

I have been getting really lousy start-ups on winter mornings. A friend said I needed to put a can of dry gas in, I don't recall doing so. What are the best option on this?

Whatever is the most reasonable with quality a concern; I haven't ever had short term failure and found some very reasonable replacement places when absolutely necessary. The way some of these inspections give you the Torquemada treatment you wonder why some people don't take out their anger on them, better than turning anger inward. Those in power can do some pretty nasty things. .

I'd also keep in mind that if the compression comes up the crankshaft or other effects may do bad things, it happened to me and others I have spoken to. 2.5 replacements are hard to find, maybe because of the difficulty of finding a good one.

Relatively easy, and it sure beats having the drag; on the last half tank of 7 gallons I got around 100 miles with the drag. Advance auto had the caliper for $50 with the discounts, free brake bleed kit and other brake replacement rentals.....I had to separate the new caliper from the bracket for the time being as I don't have the 17mm to install it. Junkyards did not have OE calipers.

OK, thanks, will review it and do tomorrow probably. Outside in parking area with signs "no working on cars", wrench shouldn't be a challenge to get the caliper off. My friend's mechanic said a failing caliper is very dangerous, but my guess Subaru ones as less so than some makes.

I got into the caliper finally today as I picked up replacement pads, etc. with the brake tool kit rental, and one of the two caliper pistons is nearly frozen, the other went back in fine. How involved is the caliper replacement without a helper to pump the brakes, etc.? Thanks. It doesn't look like lubricant lol is going to help this time around.

OK, the WD40 freed up the sticking brakes for a few weeks, then more problems. I sprayed it down again aleviating the problem for the time being. Will try other stuff, but prefer spray.

I have had a sticking caliper and sprayed the front caliper, etc. with WD40. Someone said that WD40 only lasts a few weeks whereas silicone is long term for lubricant applications. Is silicone the thing to use on parts that need to stay lubricated?

I have known mechanics in Vermont who lost tips of fingers, etc. working in the middle of winter due to moving machinery, or being in the wrong place/wrong time.

That's it, runs fine after warm-up. 97 Outback 2.5.

I'm still having the problem with my sister's car; soon after start up, even letting it warm up, you go up a hill, power loss and check engine light flashing. No mechanic can solve this problem. When it is totally warm it runs like a top as 2.2 cars should.

I have been having erratic start ups with my Subaru after the freeze ups, snow or freezing rain at night. When I go to start up it is very erratic then gets better. Any suggestions?

After spraying it down totally with PB Blaster I haven't had any further issues, also topped off the brake fluid. Possibly the lady who smashed into my car's front side triggered this?