ThosL

97 Outback 2.5. My guess is wires too. I ordered what I thought was an OE set on ebay for around $30 but had to cancel it when I realized it was only one.

I ran a test at Auto Zone: It came back as ignition coil, based on: PO301 PO302 PO303 PO304 PO400 egr P1100 low input. I'm thinking wires as when it warms up it runs well. I don't think I've changed them since I bought it, a year ago.

I ran a test at Auto Zone: It came back as ignition coil, based on: PO301 PO302 PO303 PO304 PO400 egr P1100 low input. I'm thinking wires as when it warms up it runs well. I don't think I've changed them since I bought it, a year ago.

Very likely it's the plug wires. I will have to buy a set of those for around $30.

Cold or wet in the morning, vehicle runs crappy until it really warms up. Check engine light flashes. Once it warms up in 15 minutes or longer it runs well.

Wow, I thought the pre-2004 Subarus were the problems with all the head gasket failures. Personally I would like everything manual as much as possible from windows to tranny to hi and low gear and stick shift. You are basically screwed with extensive electrical or computer problems. I guess I should be happy with my under $1000 97 limited.

I have been getting really lousy start-ups on winter mornings. A friend said I needed to put a can of dry gas in, I don't recall doing so. What are the best option on this?

Whatever is the most reasonable with quality a concern; I haven't ever had short term failure and found some very reasonable replacement places when absolutely necessary. The way some of these inspections give you the Torquemada treatment you wonder why some people don't take out their anger on them, better than turning anger inward. Those in power can do some pretty nasty things. .

I'd also keep in mind that if the compression comes up the crankshaft or other effects may do bad things, it happened to me and others I have spoken to. 2.5 replacements are hard to find, maybe because of the difficulty of finding a good one.

Relatively easy, and it sure beats having the drag; on the last half tank of 7 gallons I got around 100 miles with the drag. Advance auto had the caliper for $50 with the discounts, free brake bleed kit and other brake replacement rentals.....I had to separate the new caliper from the bracket for the time being as I don't have the 17mm to install it. Junkyards did not have OE calipers.

OK, thanks, will review it and do tomorrow probably. Outside in parking area with signs "no working on cars", wrench shouldn't be a challenge to get the caliper off. My friend's mechanic said a failing caliper is very dangerous, but my guess Subaru ones as less so than some makes.

I got into the caliper finally today as I picked up replacement pads, etc. with the brake tool kit rental, and one of the two caliper pistons is nearly frozen, the other went back in fine. How involved is the caliper replacement without a helper to pump the brakes, etc.? Thanks. It doesn't look like lubricant lol is going to help this time around.

OK, the WD40 freed up the sticking brakes for a few weeks, then more problems. I sprayed it down again aleviating the problem for the time being. Will try other stuff, but prefer spray.

I have had a sticking caliper and sprayed the front caliper, etc. with WD40. Someone said that WD40 only lasts a few weeks whereas silicone is long term for lubricant applications. Is silicone the thing to use on parts that need to stay lubricated?

I have known mechanics in Vermont who lost tips of fingers, etc. working in the middle of winter due to moving machinery, or being in the wrong place/wrong time.

That's it, runs fine after warm-up. 97 Outback 2.5.

I'm still having the problem with my sister's car; soon after start up, even letting it warm up, you go up a hill, power loss and check engine light flashing. No mechanic can solve this problem. When it is totally warm it runs like a top as 2.2 cars should.

I have been having erratic start ups with my Subaru after the freeze ups, snow or freezing rain at night. When I go to start up it is very erratic then gets better. Any suggestions?

After spraying it down totally with PB Blaster I haven't had any further issues, also topped off the brake fluid. Possibly the lady who smashed into my car's front side triggered this?

https://www.lewrockwell.com/2016/12/eric-peters/things-never/ Fortunately, I haven't had any bad accidents, though I only occasionally work on my car.

With the lady who backed her 2015 Toyota van into my car, actually her rear bumper suffered a lot more damage than my car. I went through the whole ordeal and the adjuster only offered a base price on the front DS fender $640, unreal they have gotten so cheap. Plus the guy took an inventory of my whole car's body with everything that was wrong. The adjusters/insurance companies are just getting ruthless.

It was vibrating at higher speeds before I did something about the apparent caliper problem. Caliper was definitely sticking, seems OK now.

I went through a number of days when my 97 Outback had a shimmy when I went over 60 mph or so. Driver's side front brake was smoking a couple times, I checked it removed the wheel and sprayed the metals parts down with PB Blaster. Problem seems to have gone away. Do malfunctioning calipers get better ever? As the front brake overheated a few times but has gotten better now no shimmy, am I still likely going to have to replace the caliper?

Take the police report and make sure the opposing party makes good on the damage. In my car's case I don't think it was only the fender as I see some scrapes on the car, and by law they need to pay for new parts not used. But adjusters try to chisel people on their damaged vehicles. They have gotten a lot cheaper.

After putting in first Subaru conditioner and still having a leak I put in some Pour and Go Blue Devil, no more leak but heat comes and goes in mine. It could be a long winter in the north. https://www.awesomestories.com/images/user/57c3a6d716424c3347f7e8c651a4d021.jpg