ThosL

40 mph you say? I thought that would be really serious in the consequences....Whiplash, permanent damage, frame, etc..

I had the police do a report, then followed up with the insurance company "Pure Insurance", had never heard of them. Then the adjuster came by on Tuesday and the insurance company offered me under $650, less than I was expecting. He said he could get a used fender have a local place paint it and install it. The driver door wasn't noticeably damaged though. A friend checked out the damage and thought it would be $800-$1200. Expensive area, I was a little surprised by this chiseler style business operation and low offer. Has anyone else had this happen and how have they handled it?

Russians? Chinese? Japan? Fortunately our intelligence agencies are on the case.

Unfortunately Mr. Goodwrench has their customers by the balljoint$ and they bank on nervous Nellie customers to say "go ahead", I'll put it on plastic. Sounds like multiples of what the job should be, and you have many options; other estimates; change out the engine; trade the car or sell as is, etc..

In some jurisdictions I understand the cops don't do a report but you can go to a collision center. It must depend on the town or state. For years I have seen the weird spectacle of vehicles flash frozen in place after the accident on a highway, log jamming up traffic for over an hour even when they could just move totally off, and they are usually able to do so, but refuse to move until the cops can do a report. If blame is established and clear insurance companies take over; either way insurance determines how much is covered. God help those hit by an uninsured motorist, probably one in eight: http://www.iii.org/f act-statistic/uninsured-motorists I heard this from someone on what happens when you get hit by a cop: \ Cops don't come to collisions any more. Participants must travel to Collision Reporting Centres. A cop I know of was in an at fault accident and got to the center first. He flashed his badge, lied about being at fault, and the other guy was charged. It was the cop who told the story to someone I know. What a system. Years ago some guy changed lanes without signalling and whacked into my car, causing damage. Cops arrived and decided to let insurance companies work it out. I took the other driver's name. Later while reading the local paper (I did type that it was years ago) I noticed the police spokesman was a sergeant with the same last name as the other driver. Hmm...

I would have posted a picture but my FujiFilm digital camera got damaged in the recharge port. Thanks the advice here, much better than the agents. I would describe it as a serious dent in the joint where the driver's door opens but it does not affect performance much, I don't know if the frame was bent because the lady's van did back in with force, the damage caused was just to force in the joint section less than a foot. Last night I was with a group where the head had just come back after giving his friend a ride home after having his car towed. In that accident in Bridgeport, the other person was at fault but the cop did not do a police report just telling them to work it out on their own.

It's amazing the amount of abuse these cars take.

When the police report is done, within 72 hours, I will contact other's party's insurance. With "Nationwide" I was pretty ticked off be the agent's attitude like she was trying to find me at fault. So I probed her on why she couldn't tell me what the usual procedure is by the injured party? Send me a copy of our recorded conversation, etc.. Either they are not well trained or paid or just had too many claims recently.

I was doing an errand downtown today waiting for a light to turn and a lady turning around pulled out and backed into my driver's side door today in the rain. 97 Outback wagon. No glass damage, etc., but the driver door is a lot harder to open with the damage right in the joint, crinkled up but not that bad. The lady said it was all her fault the police came and did the report, usually done in 72 hours. I spoke to my insurance company which was next to worthless just wanting to record my version and check to see if they had any liability, Nationwide, I don't have collision. They said I would be totally on my own filing a claim with the other insurance company. I have never had such an unhelpful insurance company. How many Subaru owners here have collision? Is it worth it on lower value cars?

I drove my 1997 2.5 yesterday without any problems and air bubbles stopped after using the Subaru conditioner and Blue Devil pour and go. Though bubble rate was not bad and no overheating.

I first bought the Subaru "conditioner" this time around. Still some bubbles, no overheating, then the BD pour and go product, still bubbles; could be air pocket not sure now; doesn't overheat.

No doubt some of the laws of chemistry and physics are against the head gasket fix solutions in a bottle, but based on apparently unbiased reports the stuff does work sometimes. Just check out all the Amazon reviews. But there are lots of people who don't follow directions too.

Good luck with it, it may last a while with normal driving. I bought the pour and go product some days ago because I was seeing some bubbles in the overflow after changing out my radiator and cap. Bubbles started up again. I am not getting over-heating. I may try the Fiberlock product. the key with that is to dilute it enough, use less than half a container in smaller engines, and read directions. Another product with a guarantee that worked for me a while back.

Blue Devil recommends various procedures and their technical service line is pretty helpful: https://gobdp.com/blog/blown-head-gasket-repair-procedure/

Or he could look around for another car; head gaskets could be just one expensive problem. I picked up a mechanically sound Subaru for around $1000 in spring. I would recommend doing a thorough overview of the car's condition and value.

AT pressure/or temp. switch flashing--I just saw the neighbor who said it has been going on for years--computer.

He said it has been going on for years now, not an actually problematic mechanical situation according to him, he has a mechanic.

It's what I have heard a lot before on this board, that the 2.5 engines always eventually failed.

A neighbor was asking me about a flashing oil pressure switch on his dashboard, saying the dealer wanted hundreds on this job, is there a cheap work around? He is a taxi driver and doesn't do internet much.

Not sure on age, vehicle is 1997. I was able to stop the leaking by using pliers to force it on higher after cutting the chewed up hose end.

Good luck getting any justice from the manufacturer, dealer, mechanic, etc.. Unless there are clear contracts, not very likely, they are in it to make money not to help customers later in most cases. You may also want to look at the Blue Devil and other products on youtube videos, just do a search. Read the comments too. Amazon also carries Blue Devil, cheaper than elsewhere but guarantee would not be honored through them. Short term fix at best with both 2.5 and 2.2 engines. It is a lot easier to find used 2.2 engines than 2.5 ones as the HG went like clockwork on the 2.5s around 150K miles.

I used all the products available at Auto Zone, for overheating on my 2.2. One of the products when the leak was manageable, then with worse overheating none of them worked. With Blue Devil 32 oz. product you get your money back if you show a flush product on receipt and do it right; I got my money back from them probably 4x, even got my double money back with the other products, they must love me at those corps!! K Seal has store people raving about how good it is but had no luck with it. With online discount Blue Devil is under $40 at advance. Other short term fixes pull out thermostat so coolant runs fast through system and have the heater on to suck away heat from engine. What a nightmare some of these Subaru problems are!

OK, it started leaking like a ba$tard getting worse. Not totally sure it is the hose. I guess I have no choice but to get it back out to make sure everything is tight. And aftermarket bronze inflow outflow units aren't the best fit in that limited space, right up against the bulkhead.

I replaced my radiator last week with a Carquest unit. One problem; the lower transmission cooling line hose was almost impossible to get off. I cut a half inch or so. In re-installing it I thought I had enough hose to effect a tight fit. I guess not as much as I have tried to fix this myself, but didn't really do it right. Do I need to take the radiator out again, how do real mechanics do this job?

OK, thanks for the insider info.