ThosL

I've been noticing low pressure on my cooling system; within a short period of turning the car off I can take the radiator cap off with no spurt or pressured water coming out. Not sure if this is good or bad. Head gasket must have been done as the engine runs very well. 1997 2.5 limited Outback. Also, sister's 1996 2.2 recently had an overheating episode, car usually runs very well with problem of occasional loss of power soon after starting up as mentioned earlier. Stuck thermostat is my guess.

A shop in Waterbury that does a lot of Subarus did the waterpump on my last Outback for a little over $300; timing belts should usually be done at the same time, beyond the scope of most non-professionals.

I found a shop working with the junkyard willing to install the used knuckles; best way to go as my last front bearing job lasted under 2 years. It ran around $350 for both.

It looks like bolt holes will need to be drilled; I thought that the frame with plugs in it could just be punched through and that the trailer hitch frame would line up the Uhaul unit with the Subaru.

You could run some distilled vinegar through the coolant system to clean it out, better than flush products and cheaper IMO.

There are so many different stop leak products, just go to Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc.. Most have a solid component which are the worst.

Do even the OE radiators from Subaru eventually leak? My 97 Outback is leaking periodically on the side as the lower drain cock. A part-time mechanic looked at it and said that the radiator will probably need to be replaced or he recommended a stop leak product. I don't know if the Subaru stop leak product would help. Thanks.

Thanks for posting. So which parts place besides Subaru is doing due diligence? Napa? What would you buy from Auto Zone or Advance?

Mine is a limited and a mechanic looked at the 99 unit and it doesn't look compatible to the 97 Outback.

I junked my 99 Subaru Outback and saved the hitch for the 97 Outback from Uhaul, but it doesn't look like they are compatible, though Uhaul said they were. It doesn't look like the bolt pattern lines up. My date of manufacture is 2/97. Anyone have the changeover dates? Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback; I'll go back to the auto parts place to make sure it is that code. Actually fuel efficiency is not bad got nearly 400 miles on last tank of around 15 gallons.

Is this right? I thought all the gas stations basically got the same gas from the suppliers. Also is replacing the O2 sensor a solution for cat. converter code? BTW after running the guaranteed product and some premium the cat code came back on.

No problems on the brakes since pad installation.

I have a catalytic converter code in a 1997 Outback limited; I was wondering whether the guaranteed to pass product was successful, as several people recommended that. I pulled the battery cables to reset the computer with the check engine light on.

I picked up a can of Bondo a while ago; I haven't gotten up the gumption to try using it to fix some holes in my car's body. Can anyone recommended youtube tutorials on this? I heard panel replacement has become standard now by professionals. Too expensive IMO.

There are a lot of tricks mainly short term; pulling the thermostat out so the water courses through the system very quickly; putting the heater on to suck heat out of the system. Make sure the fans are working properly. I'm surprised that excellent high tech remedies haven't developed with the expensive head gasket expenses.

You can get them a lot cheaper than that online on ebay.

It depends on how bad the leak is. You can pull the thermostat which will take pressure off and buy you time; also Blue Devil guarantees are good as gold, got my money back 4X! Fiberlock is not bad either, I think it was double your money back. Just make sure a coolant flush product is on the receipt and follow directions to a T. I've driven for many months on blown head gaskets.

Question--does re-torquing the heads ever address mechanical issues like leaks in the head gaskets?

I put in a couple front knuckles from the junk yard at $75 each that fit the bill with out breaking the bank. Not sure if rear used bearing make as much sense. If the hubs were at all damaged even the best bearings can have a short life.

E-brake works fine; I had one of those self destruct on my other Subaru and I lived without it when the broken metal pieces were removed.

I'd have him ask at Advance Auto, Auto Zone or Napa; they should be able to do the computer code for free and with all the Subarus there I'm sure there are good local shops probably on the outskirts of the city. I did business with a couple shops in Craftsbury and near St. Johnsbury as well as around Brattleboro.

Did they ever get a class action for all the head gasket failures of the 2.5 engines?? They sure deserved it. I was speaking with a Jewish gentleman yesterday who said he would never buy a Japanese vehicle due to how they treated the US POWs in WWII.

Was at Monro earlier for a brake job at under $25, it makes sense plus they checked the brakes out. 97 Outback was making some rear metal noises, they checked it out and said it was bad rear brakes showing me the rear cylinders, trying to say they were metal on metal, which they weren't, and one of the calipers was no good. Estimate = $350. So I checked out this video on youtube: It made it look easy, only rotors can be a bear to get out without power tools or beefier ones than I have..... So I picked up the pads at Advance Auto for around $15 with the discounts and didn't have any real problems, got the brake tool kit for the piston at Auto Zone as a rental. A pretty easy job considering drums can be rougher. One of the caliper pistons was a little rusty, not sure if that becomes a problem down the road. I didn't see a tear in the rubber, not sure if that would be a huge issue if it was compromised.

OK, thanks, it was the reset button connected to the remote lock/unlock system which I do not use.