ThosL

I started into the job but can't get the axle nut off, I don't have a breaker bar just a large wrench handle and the 32mm socket which I borrowed from Advance. Also there are warnings on the new axle directions, it looks like there are plenty of ways to go wrong on this.

I'd ask the local auto parts places for recommendations; Advance, Napa, and Auto Zone; never fails for me. If you are on a budget tell them.

Thanks for the advice; I picked up the part following advice earlier on online purchases of Advance parts for $50 with discount. Also have some loaner tools but am low on tools otherwise. I will have to figure out how to jack it up unless I can get my floorjack out of storage.

Thanks for the advice; I got an estimate of an hour plus from a local mechanic; I will try to pick up the parts and do it myself.

I did one of these on a Subaru I had that was a late 80s model. My driver's side CV joint is getting bad; for an advanced beginner mechanic, parts changer how tough is this? A couple years ago I had my front wheel bearings done, so hopefully nothing is frozen in there.

I recently ordered a MAF sensor on ebay for $45 delivered. A local mechanic wanted $400 to install a new unit, basically a 15 minute r & r job. Virtually every new part on ebay or Amazon are available for a fraction of the dealer cost. Are there any warnings on these online parts orders? Personally with a high mileage, 300K Subaru, I would scavenge the parts off of junkers, but actually the new parts are cheaper than local junk yards. Thanks.

I disagree; but since the owner seems to want to keep the vehicle he may be loath to fight for his rights where time becomes of the essence. To sell a used vehicle for $1000 over the book value "as is" seems very fishy, and it sounds like an extortion agreement. It is not coddling or pandering to consumers to suggest they should exercise and explore their rights, he would probably have a better chance in the Constitution state than the Lonestar state where Ted Cruz was AG. Deals are valid when all the lawful rules of commerce are honored, not when buyers are under duress or when there are elements of misrepresentation.

It looks very expensive for a vehicle over 10 years old with other possible problems, "as is" contract, etc.. No contract can make you a slave to a person or company, the used car dealer still has to abide by all state and federal laws. And under the UCC elements of fraud in contracts can make the business dealing in goods and services liable for double or triple damages. You should contact first the business to let them know you are unhappy with the problem that developed quickly and see if the state agency offers any guidance on the situation. Plus you will have to examine your own finances to see if you can afford it.

I have no problems with those terms Adventure Subaru; some sellers think a car has a significant problem that turns out to be minor after examination by a second or third mechanic--the same thing goes for doctors who dish out false negatives or false positives due to lab error or a lack of DD. We have all had problem vehicles over the years, hindsight is perfect as well as minor issues that others can be extremely unreasonable about in which case being an honest car seller can be a terrible hairshirt to wear.

Here is a blurb from the state of Texas on consumer rights, I would give them a ring to explain the situation if you don't get help from the dealer: https://www.texasattorneygeneral.gov/cpd/buying-a-car-used-or-new How much in total are you paying for this vehicle with initial payment and payments plan??

I don't think dealerships can just palm off problem vehicles, even by writing "as is" on the title. You can check in with your state AG consumer affairs to discuss options with them if the dealer does not help solve the problem: https://www.texasattorneygeneral.gov/cpd/consumer-protection Many used car sellers are notorious for leaving buyers with significant problems like this, it is bad business practice and unethical to flip vehicles without doing their due diligence on the car before flipping it to you. Bearings usually go slowly, as I indicated at least a year and a half on my 99 Outback with no noticeable effects on any other functions of the vehicle. I would definitely have the dealer make good on the car especially with likely buy price as a trade in, etc., of $1000 or so and sale price of maybe $4000, just a guess.

By coincidence I am having a rear wheel bearing done today, roughly an hour and a half job, plus $60 or so per bearing. I am just having the one needing it done, and the mechanic upped his labor charge to $180 from $100 this morning maybe because it was going to be a pressed in job. This wheel has been making noise for a year and a half, sometimes alarming during all that time. Usually bearings, CV joints etc. take a long time to go totally bad, regularly examine them would be my recommendation. You could go back to the seller letting him know what the problem is, in some states buyers of used cars have a lot of options working through the state AG especially if the seller knew he was palming off a problem on an unsuspecting buyer. But first give the seller a chance to address the problem, which he may do if he made a significant profit on the deal.

Thanks for the advice here; we took the 96 Legacy 2.2 to Smitty's and they said MAF sensor needed replacement to the tune of around $400; and plugs and wires to address the sister's misfire code on the car, they want $200 for that but plugs were just changed. I picked up $35 wires from Advance with the replacement guarantee and MAF sensor cleaner for around $8. Smittys says it rarely works, I will probably look for a used MAF at the junkyard if needed.

Thanks for the responses. I was asking more in terms of how much does the dedicated Subaru mechanic invested in their own tools, etc.?

How expensive is it to be a dedicated Subaru mechanic? What is the collective cost of tools, books, and other vital aspects of servicing other people's cars? How does being a Subaru mechanic differ from serving other similar foreign cars? Is it easier or harder?

From what I've seen here that a reasonable proximity in tread, wear, etc. should be the objective. Not replacing all four tires with brand new ones every time you have a serious blowout. That is way too religious for me, and a budget buster. Oh and by the way with the price of oil hitting recent lows why are petro products like tires and anti-freeze so expensive?

Tire dealers love to sell the story that you have to replace all four; I don't buy it. With $400 minimum for a complete change look at all other options unless you are independently wealthy.

I just pulled it out of my sister's car and the engine was going to die and then reconnected the sensor and it revved up again and was normal.

So what's the remedy for the mass air flow sensor malfunction? Also I had a misfire code on my 99 Wagon, I don't want to open thread on that. I checked the plug and reversed the wires, no change. Remedy? Thanks.

The CEL on the dash went off spontaneously yesterday. I took it for a drive this morning--no problems whatsoever. The problem comes and goes, but seems to come on in the morning. Also I saw the tell-tale drip coming out from under the water pump, I added fluid to the overflow tank as it was low; I don't think a water pump issue would trigger a CEL. Again, a 96 Wagon with the 2.2.

None of the mechanics have been able to figure this out; but the sister always brings the vehicle in after it has warmed up.

Thanks for the feedback. I drove my sister's car and same thing first time in the morning, cold start, goes up hill, CEL flashes, engine loses power. Numerous mechanics have already looked at the car and could not get to the root of the problem!!! One changed a fuel injector, to the tune of $250; another did a tune up with change of spark plugs and wires. Same problem. Car runs like a top once it warms up for a while.

How reliable are the computer codes? I got an O2 sensor code on my 2.2. Is there an alternative to the $100 replacement part?

When I've pulled the plugs on my 99 Outback with a 2.2 I've never noticed fouling. On my sister's car which I just took for a drive, and frankly drives perfectly as far as I could see, the plugs and wires were changed recently. Her CEL flashing problem only happens in the morning and has happened a couple times this week, the days are colder. She is alarmed by any CEL code, I told her it is not a performance indicator. She tends to push the panic button, I will try to reassure her that if she lets the vehicle warm up the in morning for fifteen minutes it will probably not be so much of an issue.

My sister's 1996 Subaru wagon with a 2.2 engine has had that problem of the CEL flashing from time to time; she had Auto Zone check it out and they had the two codes come up; PO302 and PO420. She drives like an old lady which is to say just a few miles a day. She had the plugs and wires changed and a fuel injector and the mechanics have not been able to get to the bottom of the problem. Symptoms are loss of power. At other times without any problems.