ThosL

My friend Sam has been trying to help me to do the CV joint on my 99 Outback. Unfortunately one strut bolt is still frozen as is the ball joint retaining bolt. We tried lots of PB Blaster (Auto Zone had the lubrication PB, not the penetrating type which I got elsewhere). I used a breaker bar with a Stanley 1/2 inch to 3/8 adapter which twisted off the adapter! Sam was thinking the torch would be a way to loosen the bolt, I don't have one. Are there any tricks here we are missing?

My sister had one of these codes, that her catalytic converter was below sensor level, though she recently passed emissions. If she runs premium gas would that help? Does any product help with these? The lady at Auto Zone after finding my cat. code came up on a 99 Outback with a 2.2 said probably the misfire or other less than optimum combustion triggered it. Is that right?

I got into this with a friend with more tools than myself; the lower bolt would not turn though we tried WD40, etc.. So he started loosening the strut bolts and saw the Abs that would also apparently have to be removed. I know when a mechanic did the other knuckle, ball joint etc. it was a bear, and actually the driver's side ball joint is bad too which can be a challenge getting it out of the knuckle if frozen so I may need to go the mechanic route.

My Advance unit was a Carquest CV joint, I figure they are all coming from the Orient now anyway, I didn't check this one out for place of origin. $50 with discount. South End auto up in Lyndonville, VT was getting under $100 installed, which is dirt cheap with all the hassles.

I knew a mechanic up in Newington who was very good and reasonable on small engines, Mike Cretella. I would check with the auto parts places in your area to see what their recommendations are. And are the hourly rates real hours??

The reality is that many jobs rated "piece of cake" are in actually tough in many cases due to dozens of potential problems that mechanics are well versed in but do it yourselfers are not. If I want to work on anything on my car I have to do it outside on the pavement in a parking area that forbids working on cars, but not enforced. If you have lots of tools that helps but technique is critical. I wonder what the prevailing wisdom is on PB Blaster vs. WD40 vs. Liquid Wrench.

1999.

Probably if the WD40 can reach in there.

A couple youtube videos on this:

One problem I ran into was the connectors can be hard to get apart without damage; on the various price options, online orders can save $$$.

I ordered this radiator, figured that it would be compatible with my Outback, not a fit right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/261421769013

I was able to get it off with the breaker bar at Auto Zone, so problem solved there. Still haven't really gotten into the job.

I started into the job but can't get the axle nut off, I don't have a breaker bar just a large wrench handle and the 32mm socket which I borrowed from Advance. Also there are warnings on the new axle directions, it looks like there are plenty of ways to go wrong on this.

I'd ask the local auto parts places for recommendations; Advance, Napa, and Auto Zone; never fails for me. If you are on a budget tell them.

Thanks for the advice; I picked up the part following advice earlier on online purchases of Advance parts for $50 with discount. Also have some loaner tools but am low on tools otherwise. I will have to figure out how to jack it up unless I can get my floorjack out of storage.

Thanks for the advice; I got an estimate of an hour plus from a local mechanic; I will try to pick up the parts and do it myself.

I did one of these on a Subaru I had that was a late 80s model. My driver's side CV joint is getting bad; for an advanced beginner mechanic, parts changer how tough is this? A couple years ago I had my front wheel bearings done, so hopefully nothing is frozen in there.

I recently ordered a MAF sensor on ebay for $45 delivered. A local mechanic wanted $400 to install a new unit, basically a 15 minute r & r job. Virtually every new part on ebay or Amazon are available for a fraction of the dealer cost. Are there any warnings on these online parts orders? Personally with a high mileage, 300K Subaru, I would scavenge the parts off of junkers, but actually the new parts are cheaper than local junk yards. Thanks.

I disagree; but since the owner seems to want to keep the vehicle he may be loath to fight for his rights where time becomes of the essence. To sell a used vehicle for $1000 over the book value "as is" seems very fishy, and it sounds like an extortion agreement. It is not coddling or pandering to consumers to suggest they should exercise and explore their rights, he would probably have a better chance in the Constitution state than the Lonestar state where Ted Cruz was AG. Deals are valid when all the lawful rules of commerce are honored, not when buyers are under duress or when there are elements of misrepresentation.

It looks very expensive for a vehicle over 10 years old with other possible problems, "as is" contract, etc.. No contract can make you a slave to a person or company, the used car dealer still has to abide by all state and federal laws. And under the UCC elements of fraud in contracts can make the business dealing in goods and services liable for double or triple damages. You should contact first the business to let them know you are unhappy with the problem that developed quickly and see if the state agency offers any guidance on the situation. Plus you will have to examine your own finances to see if you can afford it.

I have no problems with those terms Adventure Subaru; some sellers think a car has a significant problem that turns out to be minor after examination by a second or third mechanic--the same thing goes for doctors who dish out false negatives or false positives due to lab error or a lack of DD. We have all had problem vehicles over the years, hindsight is perfect as well as minor issues that others can be extremely unreasonable about in which case being an honest car seller can be a terrible hairshirt to wear.

Here is a blurb from the state of Texas on consumer rights, I would give them a ring to explain the situation if you don't get help from the dealer: https://www.texasattorneygeneral.gov/cpd/buying-a-car-used-or-new How much in total are you paying for this vehicle with initial payment and payments plan??

I don't think dealerships can just palm off problem vehicles, even by writing "as is" on the title. You can check in with your state AG consumer affairs to discuss options with them if the dealer does not help solve the problem: https://www.texasattorneygeneral.gov/cpd/consumer-protection Many used car sellers are notorious for leaving buyers with significant problems like this, it is bad business practice and unethical to flip vehicles without doing their due diligence on the car before flipping it to you. Bearings usually go slowly, as I indicated at least a year and a half on my 99 Outback with no noticeable effects on any other functions of the vehicle. I would definitely have the dealer make good on the car especially with likely buy price as a trade in, etc., of $1000 or so and sale price of maybe $4000, just a guess.

By coincidence I am having a rear wheel bearing done today, roughly an hour and a half job, plus $60 or so per bearing. I am just having the one needing it done, and the mechanic upped his labor charge to $180 from $100 this morning maybe because it was going to be a pressed in job. This wheel has been making noise for a year and a half, sometimes alarming during all that time. Usually bearings, CV joints etc. take a long time to go totally bad, regularly examine them would be my recommendation. You could go back to the seller letting him know what the problem is, in some states buyers of used cars have a lot of options working through the state AG especially if the seller knew he was palming off a problem on an unsuspecting buyer. But first give the seller a chance to address the problem, which he may do if he made a significant profit on the deal.

Thanks for the advice here; we took the 96 Legacy 2.2 to Smitty's and they said MAF sensor needed replacement to the tune of around $400; and plugs and wires to address the sister's misfire code on the car, they want $200 for that but plugs were just changed. I picked up $35 wires from Advance with the replacement guarantee and MAF sensor cleaner for around $8. Smittys says it rarely works, I will probably look for a used MAF at the junkyard if needed.