ThosL

It's too bad that the radiator issue was not addressed early on, as they aren't that expensive. Plus I was at the junkyard yesterday and there were a number of Subarus with radiators and other parts ready to go, not a hard job to install as well.

Thanks. I'd like to see readily accessible online diagrams and step by step procedures going over various jobs so we aren't just repeating the same questions.

The local library said they didn't have the Chilton guides any more. Does anyone have a link for the online versions or are they on a pay only basis?

I'd get all the evidence together; plus when you don't have written records of pertinent information signed affidavits may suffice.

Thanks for letting me know the degree of difficulty on this; it helps me to not feel like a dummy on repairs.

A quick question; it sounds like the water pump went bad, how did your husband deal with that? Unfortunately it is tow truck city when water or oil pumps go bad, people who drive with them gone can easily blow the engine. Obviously warranties are based on fulfilling the terms of the contract(s).

The guy at Auto Zone said yesterday that you have to use special hose for coolant lines due to the effect of antifreeze, though I have been using fuel line rubber hose in a couple lines. Will this fail in time, and is there any evidence of that?

My guess it's the switch. The tab originally broke off so I didn't have use of the drivers side window for a while. Now when I have been using it, it decided to stop going back up. The magic smoke was a few weeks ago.

If you want to play hard ball with their intransigence, you could contact the state AG filing a complaint with them. Plus lemon laws are pretty tough for used car dealers to fight. Go online and post an anonymous or a review in your name depending on whether they may retaliate. If you are a member of Angie's list they probably field reviews there. Lots of ways to fight back.

The guy at Advance Auto thought it was probably in the switch unit, not connections when he looked at it today. I had saw a puff of smoke once a little while ago coming from the unit, though it kept working for a while.

I spent about an hour on the main long coolant line between the airbox and the engine; both are hard to get to, one is much longer, the one with the original problem. I tried a couple of those finger tightening clamps to prevent the slight leak. They just made it worse. What would be a reasonable amount of mechanic time on replacing the two hoses, a half hour? Why are these two quarter inch or greater lines so hard to get to?

Does any one have a list of the steps for replacing the water hose(s) over the engine and under the throttle body? I had one blow over a month ago and used a temporary 1/4 inch hose with a two way tapered connector spliced in with no hose clamps though. 99 Outback wagon with 2.2.

Hi--I was having a little trouble with the driver's side window not going up, now I could not get it to go up but it will go down. It was acting finicky now it just wouldn't go up. Any solutions? Thanks. 99 Outback wagon.

I am probably way over that; when F and S did the water pump replacement, the timing belt was OK and we decided not to replace it. Well over 100K on a 2.2 with no replacement.

I spoke with F and S who are Subaru specialists; they said rear wheel bearing for the 99 OB would be an hour and a half per wheel ($100 per hour) plus parts.

Approximate cost of the replacement bearings installed per wheel vs. cost and difficulty of doing it yourself? Thanks.

99 Outback.

I have been hearing one of the rear wheel bearing going for a while. Both front ones were replaced and I was wondering how complicated the rear ones and what a reasonable cost is per wheel? Thanks.

To each their own and I doubt that quality mechanics would lose customers if they had posters around, as people just want quality work at reasonable prices. I remember seeing a poster of Shania Twain up in Monson Maine at Kent Bishop's garage 10 years ago. So I asked him who she was and he said she was a beautiful woman which she is.

Most likely, had the defrost on to suck excess heat out.

I was looking through this forum for a match on this topic, I didn't see anything that jumped out answering my question. There is a drain hose I have seen water coming out of near the back of the engine out a drain hose. I was wondering whether the heater has one of those or just the A/C? I virtually never have the AC on, the water was draining in a small way from the drain hose when the AC was not on.

I've never seen this discussed, but seems a universal trait of mechanics and garages to have various versions of pin-up models around the garage; from the Sports Illustrated versions to more racy types. Is this pretty universal at shops or do they have certain standards at shops where customers may be turned off? Like at one Subaru yard I asked to use the bathroom and their was a pile of "Swank" or similar mags. around.

Probably in ideal circumstances you can get excellent mileage especially with those superlative newer models. The winter with the fuel mixes and oxigenation it is always worse. I'm getting around 25 mpg even with a bad head gasket apparently. Also speeds affect mileage, or used to; the higher the speed the worse the mpg

Blue Devil is clear, I don't know what is in it; but the guy at Advance Auto said you have to also show radiator flush on the receipt or they won't refund. It looks like I will have a Fiber Lock double refund coming as well as the Blue Devil as I am still getting bubbles in the system (steam).

What is a reasonable charge for one rear wheel bearing? I'm hearing tell tale noises on one side.