ThosL

I checked around today to see if any of the auto parts stores but Auto Zone did free vehicle computer or check engine light diagnostic. It is a one to two minute test, so it is hard to understand why they wouldn't. Napa no, Advance Auto no, only AZ did it. Free battery tests are more common, maybe because they are more likely to make money on the test?

Thanks for the video, it isn't that difficult a job, but there are some curve balls here; having all the tools including an extra long extender for the ratchet wrench; a magnet extender to retrieve metal objects, like screws; removal of the throttle body cover for access; potential issues with pulling the plug out; putting all the connectors back on the throttle body. Not an easy job for non-mechanics but doable.

Most people get turned off by the high prices of dealerships, especially their labor rates. Last time I went to one, they did not have the part and couldn't order it on my 99 Outback.

OK, thanks for the information. I am noticing no performance issues so maybe the Auto Zone guy got the code wrong?

I was able to clear up the 3 misfire codes I was getting with my '99 Subaru Outback by changing spark plug wires. I got a code for knock sensor. Does this affect performance? Thanks.

The '96 transplanted engine into the '99 Outback requires different spark plug wires than any of the '99 versions. I'm sure that the Autolite's he had in stock will work just fine and I have no interest in expensive "ideal" wires especially since this may not have needed changing anyway, but was the recommended course of action. So if I had thrown $70 away instead of $37 it would have been doubly stupid. I will see if this clears up the misfire code.

My vehicle has too many miles and years to install a high quality set of parts. I ordered a set of $30 wires that Advance auto will get in today. Many other parts stores and mechanics are very critical of Auto Zone's Duralast parts, some are better than others. I'm thinking the dysfunction caliper was clamping up and leading to bad mileage among other things. Misfire codes are a warning of less than ideal ignition.

I've been using the NGK platinum plugs, no problems there. I doubt tranny fluid levels would affect mpg much.. Check engine light is on non stop due to map sensor issue. The wires being a cause of misfire rings true but no obvious performance issue there. Fuel injectors a possible issue, not sure what the diagnostic is on those.

Plugs and pcv valve are recent; wires are a couple years old. I'll check air filter. many oil change places neglect those. I haven't changed fuel filter in quite a while.

So "Freddy" the guy that Auto Zone recommended for some mechanical work plugged in his diagnosis tool into my Subaru computer, a 99 Outback with a 2.2 transplant engine. It runs like a top but the mpg has been dropping from nearly 400 a tank to around 300. Misfire codes on cylinder 2,3,4; 1 seems to be OK. He says it could be wires or coil. Any thoughts on where to go at this point, since electrical parts are usually not returnable? Plugs are OK, with no abnormal wear.

Some mechanics say to not do a transmission flush/filter change as it may make things worse.

I was getting some slipping so used Lucas tranny treatment which did the trick. I paid around $1K for a guaranteed used one from F and S; installation was around $500.

Auto Zone had a mechanic they recommended to me this morning; I called him he said he would be able to fit me in and did the caliper and rotor on the one wheel for $80.

Here is one of the better youtube videos on Subaru brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_1kMWIiwKw I did not see anything specifically on Subaru Outback calipers and bleeding them.

Is there any way to install a new brake caliper and not need to go through all the bleeding?

How hard, may I ask, is it to install a caliper? I have not had luck bleeding brakes which would have to happen if I switch out the old one. There is no way to save it with trying to free up the frozen piston, PB Blaster, etc.?

'99 Legacy Outback wagon.

Thanks for the technique recommendation. But my biggest concern now is not the rotor which I couldn't install but the caliper possibly breaking down.

Sounds pretty complicated. I'm afraid that the caliper is freezing up, as the drag is unbelievable. Don't know how that happened and it could greatly complicate making the vehicle road worth.

I jacked the vehicle up today and found that the pads were worn out, inner one was metal on metal. So went back to Auto Zone for pads and rotor, but bolts holding the rotor in was not coming off even with PB Blaster used a number of times. Breaker bars are often too big to get in there so may make an appointment with mechanic who has the power tool as I probably need a pro to do a couple other things too. Smoke came off the wheel I changed pads on, is that excess brake fluid, as the fluid was topped off?

If power is off, you are "coasting" down the hill because the engine was overheating, do you do real damage to the brake system to use them when the ignition is off? I'm getting a nasty grinding noise now after this a couple days ago.

What would have really been (financially) crazy was having the car towed to a garage; waiting a week for the job to be done, while spending $500 for it. The routinely double the cost of parts, pad the bill, and take their time for the job. As usual if you want to see the job done quickly do it yourself. Of course plenty of people have wasted their cars by not having them towed if they break down late at night or when they should not be driven.

So I was at Walmart yesterday and came out, put up the Subaru hood, handled the side radiator large plastic outflow section and it just broke; I knew it had a crack but was not leaking. So what to do? I called the local junkjard to see if they had any radiators in stock. No dice on that. Then I called Auto Zone and fortunately they had one in stock. I took a chance, put stuff back as well as I could and drove the two miles stopping for a cool down to Auto Zone which is pretty tolerant on customers working on their vehicles out in the parking lot. $130 for the radiator, and got one of their $5 tool kits with the metric sockets, etc.. The toughest thing to remember on these is the lower transmission cooler hose that is hard to access. I cut a couple inches off the hose to get the old radiator out and then had a problem getting enough hose to connect to the radiator. I actually thought it was OK but drove up the road and then lost transmission shifting so stopped at Walmart, got a flash light to eyeball the transmission cooler hose clamp, etc., put in a couple quarts of tranny fluid and was able to get to our coin club meeting last night in Danbury.

I would give the Blue Devil stuff a whirl; and if they deny the refund appeal their denial as I did through the state AG. I got a call from their headquarters wanting to refund me ASAP! I used the K & W head gasket stuff last time, I called their headquarters and they insisted their double refund guarantee was 100%. I'm getting bubbles in the radiator again so maybe I need to try one or the other again. It is hard for me to see how anything would work with anti-freeze in the system, needs to be flushed out.