ThosL

Thanks for the info.; hopefully by the end of the week this will be solved plus my tax snafu.

I have noticed the fuel economy drops significantly in my 2.2 Outback at high 60s and 70 mph, I guess the stress drops fuel economy, as I got 350 miles in my last tank.

I was getting knock sensor code still after the change; Auto Zone said they will guarantee the part.

I got a little over 400 miles on my last 15 gallon tank, which works out to 26-27 mpg. '99 Outback with a '96 2.2 engine, 288k miles. How are others doing for mileage in their cars?

My suspension is a little bumpy, but at this point I don't want to spend the money unless it is a real need. Advance quoted me around $300 for a set.

OK, thanks. I may give it a try. Unfortunately the OE jack is pretty chintzy, so it got damaged when the car fell over when jacked up. I do have a jack in storage though.

I would go to one of those if there was one around here that was reasonable, but I don't know any and I'm a pretty good researcher. A garage about an hour away charges only $70 an hour and you can bring your own parts.

I don't have jack up capability or sawzall so this is likely beyond me. The Auto Zone mechanic is busy and wants $120 to do the job if I bring the parts, so I'll look around.

I have an unpleasant exhaust noise coming out from between the cat. converter and the pipe behind it. I spent some time getting parts for the repair at Napa, etc.. There is a donut style tapered gasket there and the bolts, etc. holding in a sandwiched assembly that connects the two pipes. How tough is this job? I don't know if the bolts will come out readily and the pipes will go back together easily. How tough a job is this?

Thanks for the feedback. Spark plug wires replacement and knock sensor and now the check engine light is finally out for the first time in over a year. Also fixing the brake caliper means that possible drag there is gone. Also with my replacement of the radiator a week and a half ago, by myself at the area Auto Zone lot(!) now I don't have bubbles in the radiator which were probably a result of the cracked radiator which none of the mechanics who looked at it suggested. I should be getting top mpg now, but I haven't checked the compression, but lots more power now.

Thanks for the feedback; I guess I'll have to hold the job until I talk to the guy I know with the Subaru junkyard.

My driver's seat springs have collapsed, support is negligible. So I'm thinking of switching the seats, passenger to driver's side. Is this an easy job? How often is this done? I see two bolts holding in the seats.

I checked around today to see if any of the auto parts stores but Auto Zone did free vehicle computer or check engine light diagnostic. It is a one to two minute test, so it is hard to understand why they wouldn't. Napa no, Advance Auto no, only AZ did it. Free battery tests are more common, maybe because they are more likely to make money on the test?

Thanks for the video, it isn't that difficult a job, but there are some curve balls here; having all the tools including an extra long extender for the ratchet wrench; a magnet extender to retrieve metal objects, like screws; removal of the throttle body cover for access; potential issues with pulling the plug out; putting all the connectors back on the throttle body. Not an easy job for non-mechanics but doable.

Most people get turned off by the high prices of dealerships, especially their labor rates. Last time I went to one, they did not have the part and couldn't order it on my 99 Outback.

OK, thanks for the information. I am noticing no performance issues so maybe the Auto Zone guy got the code wrong?

I was able to clear up the 3 misfire codes I was getting with my '99 Subaru Outback by changing spark plug wires. I got a code for knock sensor. Does this affect performance? Thanks.

The '96 transplanted engine into the '99 Outback requires different spark plug wires than any of the '99 versions. I'm sure that the Autolite's he had in stock will work just fine and I have no interest in expensive "ideal" wires especially since this may not have needed changing anyway, but was the recommended course of action. So if I had thrown $70 away instead of $37 it would have been doubly stupid. I will see if this clears up the misfire code.

My vehicle has too many miles and years to install a high quality set of parts. I ordered a set of $30 wires that Advance auto will get in today. Many other parts stores and mechanics are very critical of Auto Zone's Duralast parts, some are better than others. I'm thinking the dysfunction caliper was clamping up and leading to bad mileage among other things. Misfire codes are a warning of less than ideal ignition.

I've been using the NGK platinum plugs, no problems there. I doubt tranny fluid levels would affect mpg much.. Check engine light is on non stop due to map sensor issue. The wires being a cause of misfire rings true but no obvious performance issue there. Fuel injectors a possible issue, not sure what the diagnostic is on those.

Plugs and pcv valve are recent; wires are a couple years old. I'll check air filter. many oil change places neglect those. I haven't changed fuel filter in quite a while.

So "Freddy" the guy that Auto Zone recommended for some mechanical work plugged in his diagnosis tool into my Subaru computer, a 99 Outback with a 2.2 transplant engine. It runs like a top but the mpg has been dropping from nearly 400 a tank to around 300. Misfire codes on cylinder 2,3,4; 1 seems to be OK. He says it could be wires or coil. Any thoughts on where to go at this point, since electrical parts are usually not returnable? Plugs are OK, with no abnormal wear.

Some mechanics say to not do a transmission flush/filter change as it may make things worse.

I was getting some slipping so used Lucas tranny treatment which did the trick. I paid around $1K for a guaranteed used one from F and S; installation was around $500.

Auto Zone had a mechanic they recommended to me this morning; I called him he said he would be able to fit me in and did the caliper and rotor on the one wheel for $80.