ThosL

Just be glad you aren't in Jackman, Maine, mooose country. Truckers regularly have them run out in front of their trucks.

I had the job done today, a little under 4 hours for the water pump alone. When the water pump compartment was opened up, the shop manager said look at how the plastic melted, a bad sign for the head gaskets; ie though we could not see them if other plastic gaskets melted, they were probably damaged. The old timing belt looked OK, so we decided to keep it, no other parts were replaced but water pump and thermostat. The job was done under $400. After the job was done it looked like we had the tell-tale bubbles in the radiator and overflow tank with overheating. But I was able to drive the car 50 or so miles without any indications of a serious problem. Time will tell.

I'm having the mechanic in Waterbury work on it tomorrow am; I will just have to keep the radiator full and keep my eye on the gauge on the way up.

I had Monroe check it out, they said water pump. I went to a couple other places that did not get a flashlight and get under it to diagnose.

Does letting the vehicle cool off change the dynamic of the water flow in the radiator, the overflow, and throughout the engine? Say what? I was thinking that with a bad water pump leaking water (I am adding around a gallon every time I restart the car) you add water when you restart the car and unless there is enough water in the system abnormalities will happen especially because the water pump is not working.

I have noticed overheating problems seem particularly acute with Subarus, I can't remember another brand of vehicle that seems to be prone to this. I have a number of questions of how people can avoid problems due to overheating. In the case of radiators, fans, the coolant system, the water pump, outside weather and climate effects, heavy hauling or substantial up hill terrain challenges, leaks, etc., what are the preventative measures that should be taken and measures that should be taken after a problem develops with 2.5 and 2.2 engines? Is the hot/cold sensor on the dashboard a reliable measure of threats to having the engine overheat? How high does the dial have to go up before a real threat to the integrity of the engine develops? Does letting the vehicle cool off change the dynamic of the water flow in the radiator, the overflow, and throughout the engine? How long should a Subaru be allowed to cool off if it overheats before it is restarted? Why is a hot engine hard to start? If the water pump is going bad, how much water does it leak, does the water only come out of it or other places in that case, how much notice do you have before it must be replaced? Why is the 2.5 more prone to permanent damage and does the 2.2 installation replacement significantly impact the power available as well as strain it inordinately when in a station wagon? Are synthetic coolants or other forms of extraordinary options worth considering to augment the cooling system? Thanks for responses to these questions.

The mechanic has scheduled the water pump job for Monday. I asked him how driveable it is and he said I should be OK if I keep the radiator full. So I have driven it on the highway today; this morning I was OK, then drove it this rather hot afternoon and it is overheating. I have a 30 mile or so ride back home, is there a way to drive this carefully so as not to overheat the engine again? It did not get into the critical area with the temperature gauge, how accurate is that? If I keep putting water in the radiator will I be OK and pull over when it gets above the 60% level on the gauge?

A gas service station down town has a '98 Outback wagon with standard tranny, 75K or so on new engine for $2800. Probably fair, it had been regularly serviced. But they may take less. I would never get set on any car, have it thoroughly checked out, sounds like you are in the process of doing that.

If you were closer I would gladly share one of the areas best IPAs: http://everythingontap.com/2014/07/19/two-roads-road-2-ruin-double-ipa-review/ This job is beyond me in terms of my experience and I would have to do it in a parking lot and hope that no one would try to enforce the no work on vehicles rules.

I switched back from the Iridium quattro plug to the NGK OE and had much better results. The parts shop automatically gave me the more expensive NGK platinums last time.

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The shop in Waterbury said the 2.2 is an easier job than the 2.5. You never know what you are going to get when you open up the water pump/timing belt compartment someone said; so we'll see.

I was hoping this was just a leaking hose problem, as "Splash" oil change/car wash said; I ran it by Monroe who after quite a while with a flashlight and looking at the schematic said it was the water pump. $700 estimate there, same at another trusted mechanic for timing belt too, another shop with an hour drive away was around $400.

'99 Outback. What is the likely range of prices for water pump or timing belt? I asked the mechanic whether it was a $400 or more and he was shocked that I thought it would be that little.

The mechanic at the local Gulf station took a quick look and said it was water pump. Car has 275K on it, as I am not the first owner and the engine was a 2.2 replacement, not sure when timing belt was done. I have done water pumps on a GM pick up years ago, I'm just afraid I would be left with a basket case if I opened this one up.

I have had a sudden water leak over the last week; is this likely the water pump going on me as with other vehicles? I checked the obvious places and it seems to be coming out of the center of engine, not hoses. How would I do a proper inspection, or do I need to get to a garage asap?

Thanks for those ideas. Unfortunately this is one of the more expensive parts of the world, Connecticut. I don't think she would rely on her brothers unless they are around on specifics; actually my brother recommended the Norwalk mechanics as an alternative to the chain mechanics and other service stations that charge big time for everything. If I am around I will try to advise her. People with weak minds make bad decisions.

Thanks for the responses. My sister is over 60 has had mental breakdowns and my brother has strongly counselled in the past against doing anything to add stress to her life. The "mechanic" John Soltis in Norwalk supposedly knows Subarus. Fred's Auto in Norwalk sold her the car a few years ago used and I remember the exhaust going out within a month, probably the front part. So my thought was after getting the rejection from Fred's Auto then to go to the state to complain under the lemon law. My brother says it would be stressful for the sister, etc.. So nothing was done and the repair then was $1500. Weakness seems to prevail but I should go on to Angies LIst if Soltis in unresponsive. I deal with a lot of deceptive practices in numismatics which is my main income source.

My sister who is disabled showed me a whopping bill recently on her 1996 Subaru from a local mechanic. I'm wondering if this is a typical mechanic practice of tripling their cost of parts as their main method of profit, and charging less on labor? The bill showed a charge of $247 for the muffler, $313 for the center pipe another $40 or so for gaskets, etc.. Labor was $135. I keep telling her if whatever is going on with the car is not affecting performance, not making enough noise to put it in the police stop category, and since she rarely drives more than 50 miles in a day, it makes absolutely no sense for a disabled person to spend money she does not have and cannot afford. And there are plenty of shops that need a constant flow of money and suckers. I guess she was lucky not to go to Midas?

On my '99 Outback, I have Starfire tires, one blew out last year on a bad dirt road, so I bought a used spare. Subsequently, I replaced three with new tires, and kept one of the tired Starfires it still has tread. Tire places and garages refuse to rotate the tires, I figured it would be better on the rear than driver's side front. How long have they been refusing to rotate tires if they deem them a risk? It seems a lame excuse they are afraid of lawsuits/liability they say. With the cost of these tires around $85 each installed, it sure seems to be a biased approach.

OK, thanks for the feedback on this from the pros. Maybe the topic will help out someone else because sometimes we need to be reminded.

I was at an auto parts place the other day and did not want to spend $5 a quart; I mentioned that to the counter worker and he pulled out a case of part synthetic, I think it was "Parts Plus" brand and cost $2.50 a quart. Is this a significant issue with it being summer and cars running hotter than usual? Somehow motor oil has crept up in price, what are the best options of affordability and quality?

On the front end issue, hopefully I have seen the end of this for the time being. Morales auto wasn't able to get the driver's side knuckle out to change the lower bearing after putting in the tie rods. So I got a used front knuckle for $75 and they installed that the next day. Town Fair does alignments for $70, I am getting that done, has not had an alignment in a while. From the look of things alignments are usually pretty minimal with the newer cars, with mine it should be another story.

http://www.cartalk.com/ Have you ever called these jokers for car advice? An organic farmer once recommended I call them on a car problem, are mechanics in general so reluctant to give good free car advice?

I'm OK most of the time with my gas filler issue, with older pumps the gas leaks, sometimes badly. I just look for modern pumps, etc..