ThosL

I have the same problem with a partly rusted/closed rear hatch opener. I push it all the way down and then use the key or electric opener and am able to get it open that way.

Now that I recharged my A/C and have had it on, miles per gallon definitely dropped; what caused me to not use the air conditioning years ago was the evident poor mileage when it was on, technology has improved however. My take away on this discussion is to use your discretion, but those who are physically handicapped should use it whenever the humidity and or heat dictate. Having your sister develop a body heat of 103.5 are require an ambulance and hospital stay for two days after a trip to the beach, is not something that I would wish on others.

My sister's A/C is a medical necessity; I charged it yesterday with an Auto Zone recharge product and it is ice cold now in her 1996 Subaru 2.2. I mistakenly told her that A/C puts a burden on an engine, so she did not use it and developed heat exhaustion after a three plus hour trip and spent two days in the hospital recently. How many people here never or almost never use the A/C in their cars? How much does its use affect miles per gallon and other issues? Thank you!

I had the same problem, it was the head gaskets on the 2.5 and eventually the problem became too serious to let go so I paid the $1500 or so for the head gasket job, only problem is the pressure came up after the job so the crank started making noise. I ended up looking for a replacement which happened to be a 2.2 from a 96 or so. The car has been mostly been running like a top ever since. A couple possible short term fixes could be add another fan; get the best coolant, I think they make a special synthetic for high heat zones; turning on the engine heat on a hot day may make you uncomfortable, but may wick away enough heat to keep the engine from over-heating. I also tried Blue Devil, an expensive additive, but that did not help much and they refused to refund my money until I contacted the state AG with the complaint. Good luck.

Thanks for the response. Yes, one of the sliders was stuck. How important is it that they can adjust freely and not be frozen? Thanks.

I have noticed that one of the wheels, the metal part of the brake pads in the wheel, have been very hot after running after I changed the brake pads yesterday. I jacked it up again, pulled off the tire and did not see that anything in the brakes was improperly installed. What could go wrong in a brake pad installation where lines were not bled, it was simply a re-installation of what was taken off with the new pads after the pistons were forced back in? There are no sound or performance issues but the metal is extremely hot to the touch after running for 15 minutes.

I had a couple of curve balls on this job; I had the Subaru jacked up ready to install new pads, but channel locks would be no good on that like the older models. So I checked with neighbors for a C clamp, no one offered one. I put the wheel back together. Later I went back to Advance, they have a free loaner brake tool set for around $100; that I used just for the C clamp tool to push in the four caliper pistons. Unfortunately the ground was not level this time and the car fell off the jack, but I used the wheel under the car ploy in case this happened. So I was able to re-position the slightly damaged jack properly and finish the job. Another curve ball; the 14mm bolts holding the caliper in took a lot of positioning to get to properly go back in. The guy at Advance gave me a packet of anti-seize to put on the bolts. I should be OK now; I think.

Thanks for the advice on the cat. but what I saw was that there is a fix but that mechanics do not want to do it because of the law; I went to F and S in Roxbury today that has hundreds of junk Subarus in their yard and was able to diagnose the MAF/MAP sensor problem, so now there are no problem codes, no check engine light. I will put it through emissions at the next logical time.

I ordered the cat converter from discount catalytic converters for around $170, mechanic wants $100 to install. The other unit is OK. Once I get that done I will try to get the other issues nailed down through the mechanic.

I don't have the answer to that question, others may know whether WD40 or PB Blaster would work. I have fears of something dropping into the spark plug holes and doing engine damage, possible if you are not attentive. Advice here is to just use OE NGKs not Bosch or any of those platinum, iridium, quattros etc....

I had a stuck thermostat; when replaced the problem went away.

Well, the regulators drove me out of the tree business for advertising for tree improvement without a license; in CT you can cut trees down, but cannot prune them without an arborist license, basically a monopolistic law to aid the big boys and drive out the small landscape and tree people elsewhere. My customers were happy, the state said I was turned in by a couple of "licensed" arborists who apparently wanted me in trouble. Only relevant insofar as this state has abdicated common sense and is one reason they are in worse economic shape than any other. J and J said they would put in the front cat converter for around $100; I don't know if those are available in this vehicle for less than the $400 they quoted. The MAF sensor is the big issue. They do emissions inspections differently for older vehicles, and I would probably pass with that type, as the engine runs like a top. Or I could register the vehicle in another state like Vermont or NH, but that might attract other issues.

I stopped at J and J in New Milford with the test results and he said that there is no way around the cat converter issue which is the front unit and would cost $500 installed for an after market unit; used units are illegal to install. On the MAF sensor, I already had him put in two of those and they shorted out, so that remains the biggest problem according to J and J.

I actually found a shop open today and had them retest the Subaru. It came up with: PO106 Manifold absolute pressure performance PO420 Catalyst system below threshold P1143 Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering. The technician said that if $840 or more of emissions work is done on it by a certified shop, then I can get a waiver. Any recommendations for a mechanic who could fix these problem reasonably in Western CT?

Thanks for the advice. When I had it inspected last year at another station, they hooked it up, it showed codes, I went back to J and J and tried to get them to remedy the problem. I did not want to spend $$$. I let the problem go because registration was this summer. If the Candlewood Motors heard about the swap before the test and decided to not really test the emissions, then maybe I can work on the core issue after another emission test. It's Saturday and emissions is probably a M-F business.

I might consider doing that if I thought it would do any good. The reason they failed it was for what they called "OBD communication failure"; they did not charge for the test. The state of Connecticut has very onerous burdens on vehicle owners; a couple years ago a driver pulled in front of me, her insurance should have covered the body damage which I had repaired as cheaply as possible, and as quickly as it could be done. But the state insisted on many tests to satisfy their regulatory requirements, I ended up having over $500 out of pocket on the repair because I wanted to save the vehicle. I don't know if they have red flagged the vehicle now that I have confessed there was an engine swap.

OK, I will try to do that and hope the next inspection garage does not have a red flag on this car; the mistake is mentioning engine changes. The last time I ran it through inspection was Southworth testing facility which went out of business; they had said that I would pass if one of the problems was adressed as the code for the CAT converter and the MAF sensor was coming up and I had a mechanic do what they needed to do on the MAF sensor; the one CAT converter unit that is showing malfunction is not cheap if I had to replace it.

OK, thanks for the excellent feedback! It should prevent me from having a basket case once I get into the job.

The technician owns a newer Subaru himself and yes I did mention the engine change. I went down to the DMV and asked what my options were; so I spoke with the state who said I was in violation of federal anti-tampering laws; so I asked how I would get into compliance, he said that I needed to have the right computer for the engine to move forward. So I will probably contact F and S in Roxbury, also Leblancs in New Milford has used Subies...

I just had Candlewood Valley Motors do an inspection test on my Outback and the technician said that the car would need a new computer because the car's computer is for a 2.5 and a 2.2 was installed a few years ago. My registration in Connecticut has about a week and a half before it expires and requires emissions pass or a waiver after spending $850 or a low income waiver. Any one have recommendations on this problem? Thanks.

I was wondering what would be the minimum amount of tools to change my front brake pads for a '99 Subaru Outback wagon? I don't want to go into my storage unit fishing for extra tools, can this be done with the flat tire jack, wheel bolt wrench and a pair of pliers, screw driver? Thanks. The local shop wants $130 plus tax which is probably standard to hang a pair of pads. A thorough brake job was done last time.

I'm driving with a damaged CV joint now and am looking for the least expensive option. I have done them in the past myself but do not currently have the tools or confidence. J and J charges around $250 for the job. Since the OP is in Vermont he may want to contact South End Auto in Lyndonville that routinely does the entire job for under $100!!! On temporary fixes, more power to those who are able to get these to work. All of the licensed and official garages will only recommend authorized fixes. The really questionable ones will scare owners with the liklihood of the front end breaking down while going down the highway at 65 mph with terrible consequences and they can't let you leave the shop until they fix your car ("Mr Goodwrench has you by the balljoints").

Something I found out by speaking with a smart auto parts store worker was that NGK has a premium line too, Iridiums, etc.. It seems illogical to put in cheapo plugs when you are paying the mechanic upwards of $100 an hour to do his job. There are reasons not to put plugs in once a year or every two years yourself if you are not practiced in doing mechanical work regularly. Stuff slips and falls if you are not careful, gapping may not be checked professionally, and in my case I buy the Bosch Quattro sales BS without hearing the other side of story. The critique I needed to hear on Bosch was to get to the root of why I thought Bosch Quattros were so good? I would have said that Bosch does good research, and are using the best technology, etc.. Then someone could have said that based on experience they do not recommend them because a number of those who have tried them have gotten less mpg and had performance issues. There were good points on this thread; ultimately problem solving has to be done on a physical inspection basis, the computer codes were useless in getting to the core issue.

A Vermont parts store gave me more info. on NGK vs. Bosch. Next time I will go with the best of the former

I was able to get J and J to check it out on short notice. They said it was the hard to reach plug that was bad also one of the plug wires. Once they replaced the wires and the plug it starting running like a top. Thanks for the feedback here.