ThosL
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This is probably beyond my ability, a 2002 wheel bearing replacement due to the tools required on an old car. A friend is mechanically adept, has a lot of Snap on tools. I was checking Amazon, and it looks like replacing the whole hub is the way to go especially since I have only 4/5 studs in the hub and replacing the hub would address that. Is it likely that missing one stud damaged the bearing? Here is one hub option, looks to be a substandard knock off: https://www.amazon.com/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Repair/dp/B08Z9RX68B/ref=sr_1_7?content-id=amzn1.sym.d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4%3Aamzn1.sym.d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4&keywords=wheel+bearing+subaru+forester+front&pd_rd_r=9b76bdd5-31f3-47df-8253-bc36c149ad06&pd_rd_w=9banO&pd_rd_wg=ThPQD&pf_rd_p=d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4&pf_rd_r=BGWPRZ870PR6VJ45S76W&pid=HR0nPDI&qid=1686150425&sr=1-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d977788f-1483-4f76-90a3-786e4cdc8f10&vehicle=2002-13-57-105--9--6-168-115-1-1--22-&vehicleName=2002+Subaru+Forester Also the rear main seal is leaking, are there any stop gap measures on that? To fix it would require engine removal. Thanks as usual for the help.
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I'd think with how little junkyards have been paying for vehicles you selll to them that they would be set up for that. The last ones I junked were around $250 in the fall of 2021 when prices were up, they towed it. The one before that in 2018 where I was paid around $80. They just do not give any financial incentive to the extent that a neighbor who had to get rid of a Forester because of parking issues, all it needed was a starter AFAIK, was also paid under $100.
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Some curved balls on this job which I did not anticipate checked out some Youtube videos. One was the difficulty of accessing the bolt on the valve cover lower one toward back on driver's side. Also after putting the driver's side back together was getting oil burning smoke, so I took it all apart again thinking that the valve cover was not evenly snug. After that no real problems after running it a while.
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I changed my oil last week and started in on my valve cover gasket replacement today. When the bolts loosened as I was removing the cover, some old oil leaked out probably 8-10 oz or more. Not sure what that means; possibly a previous overfilling where extra oil was pushed up in there? The outside of the plug wires previously had a lot of oil on them, why I decided to change the valve covers, etc.. I don't know how this would have happened. Also there was some milky residue on the inside of the cover though I don't have any head gasket issues. Going with Denso Platinum plugs, I assume these are as good as the NGKs? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PVYN3N4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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After replacing the coil, the car started running normally again. The fuel injector cleaner was to get a cleaner burn, hopefully do something to help the catalytic converter. There are dedicated products for the cat converter, doubt they do a lot of good. Looks like NGK is the OE on the coil, around $130 online. All the franchise auto stores sell a coil knock off for around $100, probably not much better than the China imports on ebay for $25 delivered.
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Thanks for the recommendations; the last ignition coil was replaced on last October 15, so I went to the mechanic he emailed proof of the receipt/transaction and they reluctantly backed up their guarantee. Problem solved. FYI the diagnostic on it was to remove coil wires while vehicle is running, two had no spark.
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I replaced the ignition coil nearly a year ago and I was thinking of that too. The previous owner said that he had replaced his a year before. But when mine failed power loss was greater and the unit broke down physically. I replaced the cat converter last winter. I'm assuming running the car with gas not burning even for 50 miles puts an undo load on the cat converter.
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I had two jobs I contracted for today. They involved driving down from New Canaan, CT to New Rochelle, NY. On the way to NY the Subaru lost power. I noticed a gas smell out of the exhaust previously. It bogs down when you put your foot on the gas pedal. Gas is burning excessively, 10 mpg at best. I ran a computer check on it and it showed cylinder #3 and #4 misfire. Also codes for O2 and evaporative came up. I disconnected the O2 censor into the main engine thinking that might effect improvement which it didn't. My older brother warned about doing work with a car with problems such as towing a work unit if the car breaks down being very costly. I was able to get the work done without car breakdown. Is this likely electrical?
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I've bought and sold a lot of precious metals and numismatic coins over the years; get weekly reports from numismatic crimes on thefts in the mail, houses, smash and grabs from cars and at coin shows. They almost never catch the thieves or retrieve the loot. One of the government officials' wife got cleaned out a few years ago and they pushed a very onerous law to document everything that comes in to pawn and coin shops, didn't do much good.
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In CT, they are pushing a bill to make it illegal to sell a Cat that his not connected to a vehicle: https://www.usnews.com/news/best-states/connecticut/articles/2022-05-02/connecticut-bill-attempts-to-stop-catalytic-convert-thefts#:~:text=In general%2C the bill prohibits,converters they sell or transfer. Not sure why they didn't just qualify that to aftermarket cats that are not worth that much.
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I got $40 for an aftermarket. https://rrcats.com/?campaignid=16523044477&adgroupid=134844517352&keyword=rr cats com&device=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjN-SBhCkARIsACsrBz4NgY9W-tCkpdtBY26Ih8TSLTvq1Fj9pFtFvrAncD5kVJgf-xbPsG4aAgfBEALw_wcB They paid for shipping to them. It's worth checking around. Local car metal buyer offered $10. .