ThosL

Yes, that's part of the job, inserted new rubber gaskets. Still oil is getting into the plug wire compartments.

I'm learning the reason behind your pointers the hard way. I pulled one of the plugs the other day to check the gap of the Denso plugs and found it had fouled out, but I kept my NGKs so will put those back in. Some of us like me don't respond well to authoritative statements, such as "No!" or "Never do that!!!" without hearing the reasons behind it. Many years of getting bad advice I guess. Also there's oil in the plug holes even after the valve cover gasket change out and I thought I was not overfilling.

Also the local Auto Zone has the tools in their free rental program for pushing out and pressing in new bearings. But I just don't have the tools for most of the work. I was able to get it done at a shop that is reliable for $65 plus the $75 used knuckle.

LaJoies in Norwalk had the one I needed, and a local mechanic may be my choice in the am as I do not have the power tools, just low end ones. He'll probably get me for around $75 so $150 is not bad to replace it plus the yard let me take a rotor which I needed.

Too bad the wheel bearings don't have grease fittings anymore. I was thinking you should be able to inject lithium grease into the area of friction anyway if you catch it early but I'm probably dreaming.

A local yard had one for $75 which is pretty aggressive as a shop 45 minutes away had one for $50; plus one of my studs on the hub was buggered so that will address the two issues.

How did you make out with this? Around 10 years ago I paid a local shop to change out the bearings, spent too much and they failed within 1 1/2 years-2 years, both. So I put in used spindles instead, no problems then.

Thanks, I'm checking around. A member here had the same problem last winter; went to a dealership that has the equipment to do the job on the vehicle but high price.

I'm probably going to look for a good knuckle instead of trying to get a pressed in bearing on my 2002 Forester, but will try to get one in the next couple days. Pulling that off is not easy.

Sounds like you were just the right person to get it!

Ok, I'll pull the tire off and see what I'm dealing with. Typically Subaru upgraded with beefier parts such as brakes and easier to fix parts, the hub. I found this video on the job on a 1998, probably much closer to the job and a lot more difficult:

This is an excellent video on a later Impreza, probably roughly the same parts:

This is probably beyond my ability, a 2002 wheel bearing replacement due to the tools required on an old car. A friend is mechanically adept, has a lot of Snap on tools. I was checking Amazon, and it looks like replacing the whole hub is the way to go especially since I have only 4/5 studs in the hub and replacing the hub would address that. Is it likely that missing one stud damaged the bearing? Here is one hub option, looks to be a substandard knock off: https://www.amazon.com/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Repair/dp/B08Z9RX68B/ref=sr_1_7?content-id=amzn1.sym.d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4%3Aamzn1.sym.d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4&keywords=wheel+bearing+subaru+forester+front&pd_rd_r=9b76bdd5-31f3-47df-8253-bc36c149ad06&pd_rd_w=9banO&pd_rd_wg=ThPQD&pf_rd_p=d3f43d11-fd5a-4179-8b1e-1a03d11e07f4&pf_rd_r=BGWPRZ870PR6VJ45S76W&pid=HR0nPDI&qid=1686150425&sr=1-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d977788f-1483-4f76-90a3-786e4cdc8f10&vehicle=2002-13-57-105--9--6-168-115-1-1--22-&vehicleName=2002+Subaru+Forester Also the rear main seal is leaking, are there any stop gap measures on that? To fix it would require engine removal. Thanks as usual for the help.

I was able to get around $300 for my last junker, I'd think metal prices are up.

I'm thinking that after the pandemic there are a lot of people in rough shape, families that have lost people and some opportunities like this as well as predatory buyers. Let's hope most people know how to get top dollar for their cars.

I'd think with how little junkyards have been paying for vehicles you selll to them that they would be set up for that. The last ones I junked were around $250 in the fall of 2021 when prices were up, they towed it. The one before that in 2018 where I was paid around $80. They just do not give any financial incentive to the extent that a neighbor who had to get rid of a Forester because of parking issues, all it needed was a starter AFAIK, was also paid under $100.

Some curved balls on this job which I did not anticipate checked out some Youtube videos. One was the difficulty of accessing the bolt on the valve cover lower one toward back on driver's side. Also after putting the driver's side back together was getting oil burning smoke, so I took it all apart again thinking that the valve cover was not evenly snug. After that no real problems after running it a while.

2002 Forester. It was old oil, I changed it out last week so it must have been in there sitting.

I changed my oil last week and started in on my valve cover gasket replacement today. When the bolts loosened as I was removing the cover, some old oil leaked out probably 8-10 oz or more. Not sure what that means; possibly a previous overfilling where extra oil was pushed up in there? The outside of the plug wires previously had a lot of oil on them, why I decided to change the valve covers, etc.. I don't know how this would have happened. Also there was some milky residue on the inside of the cover though I don't have any head gasket issues. Going with Denso Platinum plugs, I assume these are as good as the NGKs? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PVYN3N4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

There's a mechanic who has a lot of followers on Youtube who reviews many of the fluid additives and makes a lot of sense. Greyhaired energetic fellow.

Here's one video:

I pulled a couple of the plugs which looked fine but there was oil on the plug wire holders which may be the source of a leak. I'll look around for good solutions on this. Spark Plug Change...oil in plug wells. | Subaru Forester Owners Forum

I figured I was probably overdue on an oil change. My 2002 Forester has around 230K miles. I bought the Mobil 1 10-30 and the Fram Tough Guard filter. Draining the old oil 4 quarts at most came out. Also thinking of adding Lucas Oil Treatment.

I had that several times; it gets expensive so if you can do a diy solution that holds you are ahead of the game. If the bearing has damaged the hub then the problem can just re-emerge, and I ended up getting the whole knuckles at the junkyard for installation.

Seems to be ok now.