ThosL

I actually found a shop open today and had them retest the Subaru. It came up with: PO106 Manifold absolute pressure performance PO420 Catalyst system below threshold P1143 Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering. The technician said that if $840 or more of emissions work is done on it by a certified shop, then I can get a waiver. Any recommendations for a mechanic who could fix these problem reasonably in Western CT?

Thanks for the advice. When I had it inspected last year at another station, they hooked it up, it showed codes, I went back to J and J and tried to get them to remedy the problem. I did not want to spend $$$. I let the problem go because registration was this summer. If the Candlewood Motors heard about the swap before the test and decided to not really test the emissions, then maybe I can work on the core issue after another emission test. It's Saturday and emissions is probably a M-F business.

I might consider doing that if I thought it would do any good. The reason they failed it was for what they called "OBD communication failure"; they did not charge for the test. The state of Connecticut has very onerous burdens on vehicle owners; a couple years ago a driver pulled in front of me, her insurance should have covered the body damage which I had repaired as cheaply as possible, and as quickly as it could be done. But the state insisted on many tests to satisfy their regulatory requirements, I ended up having over $500 out of pocket on the repair because I wanted to save the vehicle. I don't know if they have red flagged the vehicle now that I have confessed there was an engine swap.

OK, I will try to do that and hope the next inspection garage does not have a red flag on this car; the mistake is mentioning engine changes. The last time I ran it through inspection was Southworth testing facility which went out of business; they had said that I would pass if one of the problems was adressed as the code for the CAT converter and the MAF sensor was coming up and I had a mechanic do what they needed to do on the MAF sensor; the one CAT converter unit that is showing malfunction is not cheap if I had to replace it.

OK, thanks for the excellent feedback! It should prevent me from having a basket case once I get into the job.

The technician owns a newer Subaru himself and yes I did mention the engine change. I went down to the DMV and asked what my options were; so I spoke with the state who said I was in violation of federal anti-tampering laws; so I asked how I would get into compliance, he said that I needed to have the right computer for the engine to move forward. So I will probably contact F and S in Roxbury, also Leblancs in New Milford has used Subies...

I just had Candlewood Valley Motors do an inspection test on my Outback and the technician said that the car would need a new computer because the car's computer is for a 2.5 and a 2.2 was installed a few years ago. My registration in Connecticut has about a week and a half before it expires and requires emissions pass or a waiver after spending $850 or a low income waiver. Any one have recommendations on this problem? Thanks.

I was wondering what would be the minimum amount of tools to change my front brake pads for a '99 Subaru Outback wagon? I don't want to go into my storage unit fishing for extra tools, can this be done with the flat tire jack, wheel bolt wrench and a pair of pliers, screw driver? Thanks. The local shop wants $130 plus tax which is probably standard to hang a pair of pads. A thorough brake job was done last time.

I'm driving with a damaged CV joint now and am looking for the least expensive option. I have done them in the past myself but do not currently have the tools or confidence. J and J charges around $250 for the job. Since the OP is in Vermont he may want to contact South End Auto in Lyndonville that routinely does the entire job for under $100!!! On temporary fixes, more power to those who are able to get these to work. All of the licensed and official garages will only recommend authorized fixes. The really questionable ones will scare owners with the liklihood of the front end breaking down while going down the highway at 65 mph with terrible consequences and they can't let you leave the shop until they fix your car ("Mr Goodwrench has you by the balljoints").

Something I found out by speaking with a smart auto parts store worker was that NGK has a premium line too, Iridiums, etc.. It seems illogical to put in cheapo plugs when you are paying the mechanic upwards of $100 an hour to do his job. There are reasons not to put plugs in once a year or every two years yourself if you are not practiced in doing mechanical work regularly. Stuff slips and falls if you are not careful, gapping may not be checked professionally, and in my case I buy the Bosch Quattro sales BS without hearing the other side of story. The critique I needed to hear on Bosch was to get to the root of why I thought Bosch Quattros were so good? I would have said that Bosch does good research, and are using the best technology, etc.. Then someone could have said that based on experience they do not recommend them because a number of those who have tried them have gotten less mpg and had performance issues. There were good points on this thread; ultimately problem solving has to be done on a physical inspection basis, the computer codes were useless in getting to the core issue.

A Vermont parts store gave me more info. on NGK vs. Bosch. Next time I will go with the best of the former

I was able to get J and J to check it out on short notice. They said it was the hard to reach plug that was bad also one of the plug wires. Once they replaced the wires and the plug it starting running like a top. Thanks for the feedback here.

Bosch platinums are great plugs. Now you can argue that NGKs are better, but the argument that you must use the OE parts and you must follow the dealer recommendations will saddle the average owner with costs way beyond what he would pay with a competant mechanic or doing things on his own properly. The reason I bristle with the absolutist talk is because I have seen it in many areas where people put themselves out as experts. Look I have done everything in my power to get my car in functional condition. There are grey areas and then there are black and white areas. Bosch vs. NGK is a grey area. They are pre-gapped and high quality generally. One thing I have not seen mentioned is how the tips of spark plugs can vibrate off in time which happened to me. Where did the tip go? I sure hope it didn't slip into the engine when I pulled out the old plug to put in the replacement. But spark plug tips that are not sealed on the plug can be a cause of problems. When I asked a while back about an overheating problem, it was a stuck thermostat, something no one but a passerby suggested but this does happen even with OE parts; the good samaritan who stopped by suggested that and he was right.

Stop bullying members on this forum!!! If you want to turn Subaru ownership into a religion then start your own Subaru church. I have been a Subaru owner since 1990.

That sounds more like religion than mechanics. No one I know believes that and I have spoken to many mechanics and parts shops.

Problem could be coin, a $70 or so part; I doubt it is plugs or wires since they are recently changed.

Maf or map sensor; has been changed 3x, so that is not it. Cat converter; again irrelevant for a stuttering engine.

Check engine light is on because engine was switched out, so no way to really address that though I spent $$$ trying to. Either it is electrical or fuel issue, probably the former.

My '99 Subaru with a 2.2 engine (transplant) recently started stuttering. I went to Advance auto parts they used their diagnostic tool without anything clear coming up. I checked the wires and then plugs and noticed one of the plugs had rattled loose and the plug screw tip had come off even though the plug wire was still attached. I replaced three of the four plugs with Quatros by Bosche, the same that had been in there, the fourth plug, driver's side rear, is hard to reach. The stuttering or jerking subsided but has come back. Slight loss of power and annoying. I put a container of Lucas gas treatment in with some premium gas--no difference in the 200 miles or so. What is the next possibility? Thanks for any recommendations.

I have tried "Blue Devil", "Block Seal" and similar products; a friend told me the other day about a great product on the same principle; flush coolant system with water totally, put product in, let engine run, and then let it sit overnight with similar actions next day. Blue Devil worked for me for a while. I would think it would be worth $2000 or so if fixed, but you may not be in the mood for that. Good luck.

I would probably do the job if it were my own, but not since it is my sister's. The best I can do is to recommend she get an estimate; she should get several but she won't.

She has the wagon. It has under 150k on it, generally it has been reliable. Bought it from a used car dealer in Norwalk who, when the exhaust system malfunctioned within the first month, would not take responsibility so she was out the roughly $1000. I told her she should contact the state's enforcement unit, my brother thought that would traumatic so she paid it out of her limited funds. Her current mechanic agrees with Oil Star's assessment though he didn't do any tests. I told her to just drive it without stupid fears and add oil as needed.

Thanks for the feedback. Her car is actually smoking enough that she is fearful and has cancelled things she wants/needs to do. Stupid, but how do you argue with irrationality? She is on a fixed income and anything like an engine light coming on or hubcap falling off makes her think the sky is falling. Subaru psychologist?

My 2.2 recently overheated due most likely to thermostat. I let it cool for over an half hour, fluid level dropped significantly, I added coolant, no more problems. Thermostat sticks occasionally. All the things that go into keeping the engine cooler should be employed. You can even put the heater on full blast which may draw out heat temporarily in a pinch. Since it often costs over $1500 for a rebuild or replacement, do everything you can to save the engine.

My sister is new to Subarus, drives about as much as the average grandmother. She went to "Oil Star" to get her oil changed and they tried to tell her that the valve cover gasket needed replacement. I used to do those, not any more. Around here mechanics charge upwards of a C-Note an hour. I told her it is nothing to really fear. Anyone have some good stuff I can run by her so she doesn't limit necessary driving? She thinks a car is an organic whole, I told her all systems are separate. She tends to look at car problems as omens....