ThosL

Thanks for the advice. On my newly purchased 2002 Forester I have overfilled it; there seems to be a lot of variability and was not sure what caused that, I thought it could only be the asphalt it was on not being level which can be hard to ascertain.

I've noticed that there is considerable variations on reading the oil level with the dipstick depending on the asphalt surface I am on. Is there any way to know whether you are on a level surface?

If you can find a mechanic or exhaust shop that allows you to get the parts and then charge you based on their time that may be the way to go. Get the parts at Rock Auto or Amazon. I have not found a work around when the joints are damaged or corroded, but as others said it may well be possible. Someone with welding skills can be hard to find on the side.

No leaking; the oil residue is splatter from when I overfilled the engine oil and or tranny fluid. Thanks for the advice.

No performance issue on this rack, but according to a friend it could become one. Video on replacing them:

Glad to hear you solved the problem. Lucas has a good reputation, the idea I think is that it causes gaskets to swell up to limit leaks somewhat; I've used their tranny product in the past with some good results. Restore is also a good product. Many of the other additives may be just a waste of money or worse. Slick 50 comes to mind. I tried Tuffoil once; a friend recommended "ER", energy release, expensive stuff. Also tried the Platinum gas saver, it seemed to defy physics that having platinum and rhenium vapors bubbling into the combustion would lead to better combustion. Amazon reviews is always an interesting educational experience, I usually check the most critical.

This was the quote I was asking about.

The buyer of this is paying $40 for the two pod unit free shipping. I could have kept it and tried to get it unclogged as it was only a couple years old as backup. You said there is a way to get more for these right?

Any idea what the producer of this one was? Walker? 5kkneOw.jpg (4608×3440) (imgur.com)

i checked local buyers of cats for the old aftermarket and they offered me $10; another online option was paying $20 and covers shipping.

Quick question, does changing out O2 sensors make much of a difference? Also what are the negative consequences if they are not working right or disconnected? The guy I bought the 2002 Forester from said that he had had a mechanic replace the front O2 sensor but I found it was not connected when the Cat converter clogged, could that have caused it? Most of what the seller said was untrue. So far have replace most all the exhaust system but had the muffler pipe welded instead. New radiator, some radiator hoses. Plugs, wires and coil. The major mechanical seems ok.

Are all Subarus equipped with block heaters? I've seen the female end of power cords on many of those I have owned, don't think I've ever used one. Was up in VT near the Canadian border once with 20-30 below, I think it started up ok.

One good thing about products with the LL Bean label is they are like Craftsman tools, guaranteed for life! So if it ever fails to give customer satisfaction, you can call their toll free 800 number and will find out how to get a full refund!

I got: Po1443, and Po130. Both O2 sensors are new Bosch units.

Thanks for that sharp technical analysis. I went back after the shop had dismissed the flashing light as probably before they worked on it and their mechanic zeroed out the codes and it wasn't a problem afterwards, said a faulty tranny oil pump would squeal. The code came up and I have a spacer that I haven't put in with the rear O2 sensor, which should address the issue from I've heard. The cat which I kept looks more than two years old, I called the previous owner who he said Mavis installed that a refund may be due, unclear on the process for that.

Thanks for that; I would have taken you up on it if I could have gotten it earlier. I ordered a Walker unit on Amazon, saved some money by opening a business account. Longo's in Norwalk put it in; called me that the Y pipe also needed replacing. I checked it out today and the only damage were on the flanges, I'm not sure why they couldn't get it out without damaging those. They only charged me for their cost, around $200. Total labor cost $300 for Cat installation and Y pipe installation. When I started it up the AT oil high temp light was flashing. I asked them about it, they asked me whether it was like that before? I said no. I drove off, went to a gas station, spoke with a tow truck driver who said that it needed to be properly diagnosed as there were bubbles on the transmission dipstick, indicating possible overheating. I went back to Longos and they checked out codes and zeroed them out. It seemed OK after that. CEL has been on and off from that time. I smell the new Cat probably burning away surface issue.

A couple months ago a nice black gentleman who had a totaled 2001 Forester in his driveway, said it was in great shape mechanically for $100! I had no place to put it and didn't need that. Probably could have flipped it at a tidy profit as good 2.5 engines are hard to find. I went back last month and it was gone. There are opportunities around if people will follow up on what they see like that. Some people are too busy to put them online.

Rock Auto has units from a few hundred dollars to $1000, the better ones are Walker. If I had a choice would just replace with a pipe, not worth the trouble, codes will come up even with the best parts. The idea behind them was to neutralize unburned exhaust which if you have an efficient engine should not be that bad. Plus in some states 20 plus year old vehicles have exemptions.

Is there that much difference in cat converters for Subarus? I saw this thread: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/7k-for-catalytic-converters.533802/ On Rock Auto prices went from a few hundred to $1500! I know the precious metals vary, are the expensive ones using more precious metals?

That's a lot of money for an old vehicle. I'd look at competitors in other towns or states, though the tow would cost. North of $4K for a top to bottom engine swap and rebuild is pretty extreme. If you did a thorough search for Subarus that would be as good as that one, and may be available for under $5K.

A friend sent me this link on cleaning them out, but I am doubtful on that: https://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/126214/Cleaning-a-Catalytic-Converter I ordered the Walker 54573 on Amazon. I'll notify david who I bought the Forester from who said it was the biggest expense he had two years ago that it clogged. He may be able to get something back.

Called again and said it was the cat converters clogged up.

Garage manager said the timing belt jumped, like I posted a couple days ago. He said he would try to get it lined up again and see what is going on.

The professionals will no doubt offer good advice here. My own experience was with a 99 where the head gaskets were failing; I found an economical shop in northern Vermont that swapped out a 2.2 for the 2.5 Outback; less power but I got some years out of it. I paid around $1200 or so all in.

A friend cleared the codes and then other codes did not come back, but the battery was low he said so not sure. Towed the car to a shop who said he would let me know tomorrow. I spoke to the previous owner who called me out of the blue today. The shop where it was towed said it may be the timing belt jumped.