ThosL

I got: Po1443, and Po130. Both O2 sensors are new Bosch units.

Thanks for that sharp technical analysis. I went back after the shop had dismissed the flashing light as probably before they worked on it and their mechanic zeroed out the codes and it wasn't a problem afterwards, said a faulty tranny oil pump would squeal. The code came up and I have a spacer that I haven't put in with the rear O2 sensor, which should address the issue from I've heard. The cat which I kept looks more than two years old, I called the previous owner who he said Mavis installed that a refund may be due, unclear on the process for that.

Thanks for that; I would have taken you up on it if I could have gotten it earlier. I ordered a Walker unit on Amazon, saved some money by opening a business account. Longo's in Norwalk put it in; called me that the Y pipe also needed replacing. I checked it out today and the only damage were on the flanges, I'm not sure why they couldn't get it out without damaging those. They only charged me for their cost, around $200. Total labor cost $300 for Cat installation and Y pipe installation. When I started it up the AT oil high temp light was flashing. I asked them about it, they asked me whether it was like that before? I said no. I drove off, went to a gas station, spoke with a tow truck driver who said that it needed to be properly diagnosed as there were bubbles on the transmission dipstick, indicating possible overheating. I went back to Longos and they checked out codes and zeroed them out. It seemed OK after that. CEL has been on and off from that time. I smell the new Cat probably burning away surface issue.

A couple months ago a nice black gentleman who had a totaled 2001 Forester in his driveway, said it was in great shape mechanically for $100! I had no place to put it and didn't need that. Probably could have flipped it at a tidy profit as good 2.5 engines are hard to find. I went back last month and it was gone. There are opportunities around if people will follow up on what they see like that. Some people are too busy to put them online.

Rock Auto has units from a few hundred dollars to $1000, the better ones are Walker. If I had a choice would just replace with a pipe, not worth the trouble, codes will come up even with the best parts. The idea behind them was to neutralize unburned exhaust which if you have an efficient engine should not be that bad. Plus in some states 20 plus year old vehicles have exemptions.

Is there that much difference in cat converters for Subarus? I saw this thread: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/7k-for-catalytic-converters.533802/ On Rock Auto prices went from a few hundred to $1500! I know the precious metals vary, are the expensive ones using more precious metals?

That's a lot of money for an old vehicle. I'd look at competitors in other towns or states, though the tow would cost. North of $4K for a top to bottom engine swap and rebuild is pretty extreme. If you did a thorough search for Subarus that would be as good as that one, and may be available for under $5K.

A friend sent me this link on cleaning them out, but I am doubtful on that: https://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/126214/Cleaning-a-Catalytic-Converter I ordered the Walker 54573 on Amazon. I'll notify david who I bought the Forester from who said it was the biggest expense he had two years ago that it clogged. He may be able to get something back.

Called again and said it was the cat converters clogged up.

Garage manager said the timing belt jumped, like I posted a couple days ago. He said he would try to get it lined up again and see what is going on.

The professionals will no doubt offer good advice here. My own experience was with a 99 where the head gaskets were failing; I found an economical shop in northern Vermont that swapped out a 2.2 for the 2.5 Outback; less power but I got some years out of it. I paid around $1200 or so all in.

A friend cleared the codes and then other codes did not come back, but the battery was low he said so not sure. Towed the car to a shop who said he would let me know tomorrow. I spoke to the previous owner who called me out of the blue today. The shop where it was towed said it may be the timing belt jumped.

We checked out the forward O2 sensor and when getting the breather apparatus off saw that the plug was disconnected anyway with a zip tie holding up the O2 from the cat converter end. I decided to have AAA tow it to a mechanic so will let them figure it out.

I may have left out the letters assuming that they were PO; PO452; PO73; P1443;PO0031 My friend assumed that it was the transmission fluid being low so we got a couple quarts but that didn't make any difference. It may be a tow through AAA now to a mechanic who is better at diagnostics.

codes that came up, were PO452; 073; 1443; 0420 and 0031. The cat code I knew about, not sure what is going on with the others.

Thanks for the advice; a friend over an hour away said he'd try to help me on this, as this is a white collar town hardly any do it yourself mechanics, and people have been avoiding one another during the pandemic.

It was throwing the code on the downstream sensor; don't have device to check it at this point. What would be the symptoms of the upstream O2 sensor messing it up or the cat converter being clogged?

Most of the electrical replacement parts were OE; previous owner replaced the cat. converter; one friend's high level mechanic said it could be cat. converter being clogged. Coil breakdown happened a few months ago and was replaced by mechanic.

I drive it every day; recently replaced lower O2 sensor, wires, plugs, coil. Upper O2 sensor I thought was ok as previous owner replaced Cat converter in last couple years.

This happened to me earlier; it went from relatively minor loss of power earlier to now no power to go up hills; 2002 Forester will idle, but very little power. I checked previous mentions of something similar and one owner said that changing the O2 sensor in front helped him. I tried to jack the car up earlier roadside and found the forward O2 sensor but did not see how to de couple it if that would help. Also thought low gas might be an issue so added a gallon, no change.

Tool rental availability has been better at Auto Zone and they did not offer the pressure tester, and in the past some of their tools are not available. I just checked with the local Advance Auto, so my bad, they have a multi part tool rental that is $265 that goes back on the card when you bring it back. I assumed they would not have it because they have been a no go on brake tools, breaker bars, etc. in the past when Auto Zone is a green light.

I remember they were so expensive that you would go to the junkyard to get them or have a radiator service place boil them out to get them to function better.

I checked with both Auto Zone and Advance and neither had one to rent; just to buy, and I would only use it once if I bought one.

I lived with a leaking radiator for several months, thinking it could be a hose or something else. I finally got around to replacing it which solved the problem. It's hard to believe it was the original radiator as that is a long time for them to last. The lower clamps were all frozen and had to be cut off; the transmission cooling lines and lower large rubber hose clamps. The leak was on the side where the cap screws in. The problem of diagnosing it was that I could not find a mechanic with a pressure tester. I got confirmation from a friend after running car for a while.

If you want it perfect, you're going to have to replace all the "substandard" parts which will keep you busy for a long, long time. Ball joints, make sure they are all OE and in good shape for the duration; all tie rod ends etc.. Not worth my trouble and if I had known that the nut could have been turned with a torch, would have done it myself and saved all the pain and aggravation.