ThosL

I drive it every day; recently replaced lower O2 sensor, wires, plugs, coil. Upper O2 sensor I thought was ok as previous owner replaced Cat converter in last couple years.

This happened to me earlier; it went from relatively minor loss of power earlier to now no power to go up hills; 2002 Forester will idle, but very little power. I checked previous mentions of something similar and one owner said that changing the O2 sensor in front helped him. I tried to jack the car up earlier roadside and found the forward O2 sensor but did not see how to de couple it if that would help. Also thought low gas might be an issue so added a gallon, no change.

Tool rental availability has been better at Auto Zone and they did not offer the pressure tester, and in the past some of their tools are not available. I just checked with the local Advance Auto, so my bad, they have a multi part tool rental that is $265 that goes back on the card when you bring it back. I assumed they would not have it because they have been a no go on brake tools, breaker bars, etc. in the past when Auto Zone is a green light.

I remember they were so expensive that you would go to the junkyard to get them or have a radiator service place boil them out to get them to function better.

I checked with both Auto Zone and Advance and neither had one to rent; just to buy, and I would only use it once if I bought one.

I lived with a leaking radiator for several months, thinking it could be a hose or something else. I finally got around to replacing it which solved the problem. It's hard to believe it was the original radiator as that is a long time for them to last. The lower clamps were all frozen and had to be cut off; the transmission cooling lines and lower large rubber hose clamps. The leak was on the side where the cap screws in. The problem of diagnosing it was that I could not find a mechanic with a pressure tester. I got confirmation from a friend after running car for a while.

If you want it perfect, you're going to have to replace all the "substandard" parts which will keep you busy for a long, long time. Ball joints, make sure they are all OE and in good shape for the duration; all tie rod ends etc.. Not worth my trouble and if I had known that the nut could have been turned with a torch, would have done it myself and saved all the pain and aggravation.

Rock Auto has a very efficient search algorithm. Only Moog, Mevotech and AC Delco for part providers. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2002,forester,2.5l+h4,1378739,steering,tie+rod+end,7428 You are going to have a few lemons with every car parts provider. If you get them from Subaru, you will probably pay 2-3 times as much.

Before and after on alignment: Last time: https://i.imgur.com/UH27Cgk.jpg Today, different shop: https://i.imgur.com/WJkLK8y.jpg

I'll ask them why they don't use torches; Town Fair tire, generally good. Is the Moog not a good brand for the front end parts?

Nut would not turn, so the alignment facility tagged it as needing replacement; other threads on unit were probably further damaged when mechanic put it in vice to separate inner from outer which he had trouble doing. He put in the Moog unit I got. Mechanic did not know how to approximate alignment, vehicle was not really drivable when I left the shop and had to come back.

The tire alignment facility could not get the bolt to turn to accurately adjust alignment. The nice black mechanic was able to do the bare basics; but the front alignment was so far off when he was done that the car was really not drivable. I went back and when a bay opened up after an hour or two wait he was able to get it closer so the car could be driven. I'm looking forward to getting the alignment done tomorrow. I paid $150 for the job.

I went to the mechanic who had the tools today; a lift in a heated facility, a vice, cut off tool etc. which I don't have. A picture of the separated inner tie rod end:

I have the part; will check with Frank at the shop, who is the manager to see how much he'd charge for the job. I had the alignment done, free re alignment within 60 days; they flagged that part.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NteheE_cO4 This is a fairly lucid video on changing the inner tied rod end, but there were a number of aspects of the job that scare me that make the job beyond my tool and aptitude level. What is the book time on doing this job for professionals? I went to a mechanic today after getting the tie rod end tool at Auto Zone who has done some excellent work for me in the past but he is too busy, doesn't charge enough. I'll try to check in with another mechanic on the job.

Our family had Toyotas back in the 1970s that were constantly breaking down. Later we got a Datsun 710 I think it was, with the six cylinder engine, just a phenomenal car and engine.

You can't emissions around here without having that working. Unexpected plug failure, how often do these fail? How do they fail? A pollution device apparently. They changed those plugs in 2003, larger, probably as an upgrade.

A friend was telling me about how an American business professional was largely responsible for how Japanese car manufacturing got better and better: https://www.wyohistory.org/encyclopedia/w-edwards-deming#:~:text=Edwards Deming%2C taught Japan's manufacturers,such as Toyota Motor Corp.&text=Asia eventually became a manufacturing giant. Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus and Nissans, etc. seemed to excel over American counterparts. Longevity, reliability, and the limited number of lemons seemed to stand out as features of their manufacturing in the 80s on. Deming recommended that quality control be done at every phase of manufacturing, not just at end phases. Suggestions by employees were also taken seriously and encouraged.

That ended up being the issue; the plug was faulty on a continuity test. So went to two junkyards, in 2003 they changed the plug, fatter mating surfaces. So I found an 11/2001 Outback with a compatible plug and changed it which resolved the CEL code.

There were a few people at work with jobs paying a buck or so over minimum that were checking around for used cars and ended up buying new or nearly new to the tune of $15-$20K or more, they will be making installment payments forever, nailed down as wage slaves. I would not wish that on anyone. The wastefulness and throw away economy is one of the big reasons for global warming and many problems in our country. And what happens if they are at fault in a car accident without comprehensive insurance? They still have to make the payments and if the car is totaled they have to think about getting another one.

I find it very inefficient to buy tools you will use one time; on this tow hitch installation project, I called two of my usual mechanics, both are very busy this week; one referred me to "Bob's service" who is busy for the next several weeks; I checked around to a number of UHaul installation garages, one in Orange was available, but that is a long drive and their reviews are poor. I used PB Blaster and a freeze product, used a torch on the stripped bolt and used "Gator" drive designed to help with bolts like that. No dice on that. There were a number of curve balls on this project that were not spelled out in the Draw Tite directions. How the alignment of the bolt installation that would get affected by pulling out the old tie downs, etc.. So some DIY installers have to use a screw driver etc. to shift the alignment so you can put their bolts in, which by the way have a 19mm head, not the 17mm of the ones you pull out. Also the installation of the muffler rubber grommet bracket is not clear in the directions for those who have never done one of these projects. Jostling around the muffler on this project also caused one of the intermediate pipes to snap; I used some products to buy me some time. The purchase of bolt extractor for $30 or so is highly wasteful if you never use the set again; in my case I had no other option and was able to remove the stubborn 17mm stripped bolt; also used lubricants and torch on that. I went to one mechanic who said he had none of those bolt extractors so could not help. Unbelievable, I thought most mechanics have $10K or more in diverse tools. My modus operandi has been sharing what I have as much as possible, so to have to buy single use tools strikes me as wasteful.

I hope you have been getting top dollar for your used car when you go to sell. How do you sell it? Do you trade it into for a new car at the dealer? The car donation options do not get the charities much in market value from what I have heard.

I will probably use one just once so will not buy a set I will never use again, and I did see what Amazon had but want to get it done as soon as possible.

Thanks for the information; I picked up a breaker bar at Auto Zone some 1/2" tools, and was able to loosen a number of the bolts; just have the one that is somewhat stripped so will be looking for a bolt removal tool tomorrow to get out the last one. Unfortunately my brother gave away a lot of his tools a couple years ago so has only 3/8" ones left.

Sorry that I brought up an old issue I had not heard how the company addressed the issue apparently as well as they could. There just aren't that many branded vehicles that keep running at 200-300K miles.