ThosL

Thanks, I got a call back from a junk yard connected to another location where they have the new hitch without the carriage bolts, and they said they had one in their Norwalk location and for me to come check it out. What are these really worth used?

The bolt was frozen, I tried a 12mm and 11mm--would not budge. So I wiggled it until it broke off the flange. I put the new unit in, the plug, the inlet and outlet hoses. Still have the CEL. I'll have to do a code check. How long if these are properly connected does it take to have the CEL go out? Do these need to be grounded?

A good video on this job:

Are there any stress triggers on these? Running the engine too hard, sudden jerks back ups, etc.? Is there any way to know they are at risk as when these break it is tow truck city?

Ok, they said it was in a box, I will call them. Basically a new unit, looked to be quality. I did not see the bolts with the unit.

Exactly, a pain in the rump roast job, not sure what mechanics get for that. Beyond my ability.

Ok, so if the hardware is not included I assume that could add on a lot?

Code was P1443.

I got a code on this. Since they said it is hard to get off at the junkyard, I assume it is tough to install, right?

I stopped at a CT junkyard today, LaJoies in New Milford as I was going up RT 7, they had a unit @$75 they said was compatible, looked underneath the car, and said the holes would have to be drilled. Is there any cheap or easier solution to this?

Yeah, the code came up later. I went to Auto Zone where other owners were trying to find what the CEL meant on their cars. One guy had a 97 Mazda with an EGR code that is affecting performance. I advised him to join the Mazda online forum and try to clean out his EGR with carb cleaner, etc..

Thanks for the offer. The code I was getting was p1443, does anyone have a link to a good source for that?

I'm ironically in New Canaan, how about ordering the part that AZ said I needed?

The guys who came down from Derby, CT on the weekend said that transmissions on these are profitable for the junkyards, but how do they ascertain whether they are good or not? The 2.5 engine had good head gaskets but it was leaking badly. I stepped it up to 20w50 oil with Lucas stop leak and still it leaked a lot. Cat converter was shot, I had used some do it yourself pipe wrap products that were holding the pipes together. Tires were recent, Cooper, so maybe they can get something out of them. There was this outfit that advertised illegally in front of the local church with this sign: Reported to the police, town zoning department, the Catholic church pastor where it is in front of, many months ago. It is still there. Earlier today I called KSQ, emailed the vin number on the car, no offer sent.

I went to Uhaul and they confirmed the old 97 Outback tow hitch was not compatible; #12270 for 97 and 36311 for the 02 Forester. So junkyards would be a good supply option for a tow hitch? I do not relish the idea of squirreling under the car and getting everything squared away.

I went into inspection after resetting the computer, it was not ready so failed. Later drove around and CEL came up. I got an evaporative emissions canister vent valve code at Auto Zone, said it is a $90 or so part, probably available a lot cheaper.

Thanks for the info; I was able to get it to unlock by pulling off the cover and putting a chain saw round file into the hole. It got picked up and they paid me $315, which I'm not sure how they calculate, but considering its condition I know see how they make much on this. Car brain is the broker. My guess is they handle a lot of charitable donations of vehicles too.

Not sure it was throwing the P0420 evaporative system issue, was a little loose. I'll try to run it through emissions later, I know a shop that passed my Outback which was a challenge with the cat converter issue. My brother said the guy belongs in an institution to have passed it....

How about a minimal type hitch, class one or bumper hitch as I don't expect to do heavy towing?

I'm getting a couple codes on the 2002 Forester; evaporative system leak and gas cap. I'm going to try to pass emissions in CT. Any recommendations?

Thanks, then no reason to save the one from the Outback. Are these hard to install without power tools? How about a minimal type hitch, class one or bumper hitch as I don't expect to do heavy towing?

Spoob lock? Link? It's auto, how do you manually release it?

I have a 2002 Forester, also a hitch from Uhaul from 1997 Outack. Is this going to be compatible? I tried to do an online search.

The transmission will not shift, there was nothing wrong with it, is there some way to get it unlocked?

I bought a 2002 Forester last week so am just looking to get rid of this one for hopefully a few hundred. But will not shift now, not sure why. It was running fine, except for the strut issue, but when I came of of TJ's it would start but not shift, no reverse, stuck in park!!! I called Triple A but they said they could not pull it up onto the flatbed then unload it as is. Any way to get the transmission to work? Is this a default for safety mode?