81EA81

Good deal. I bought a bolt to do the sloppy shifter fix on my brat that is the same thread pitch as the tensioner bolt only longer. now I need to find a tap lets hope that works. THANKS

Same here! sometimes its sketchy with a large hot coffee but it always gets the job done

Thanks! Hopefully Ill find the kit I need and have it goin tomorrow

Turns out the lower drivers side timing belt tensioner bolt went missing allowing my new timing belt to slip off. It appears to be stripped out. So now I need to find a replacement bolt and I will need to repair the threads. Ive read here that heli_coil is best. eyeballing it, it looks to be a 10mm bolt, Dose anybody know the thread pitch? What helicoil will I need? thanks

Im sure its just running too lean. too much air vs fuel

I think it runs inline with the EGR system or something.

So theres a box right next to the distributor on my 86 GL wagon with an EA82. I noticed it was making a loud ticking noise, I put my hand on it and it stopped. What is this for??? and why would it stop making noise when I apply light pressure? when I first got the car there was a little bracket wedged under the spare tire support and I had no idea why until earlier Thanks

An old wise man told me there are specific lug nuts for alloy wheels. Is this true? It sounds like it would make sense. Reason being that I am running stock steels up front and subaru alloys in back untill I can get good tires on some spoke rims I have. I just used the existing lug nuts that were holding the steelies on. Will steel lugs break my alloy rim? or just not lock correctly?

This happened to my friend in his 00 legacy.one minute it worked,next minute nothing.Turned out the key had worn down little by little over time until it wouldnt work. he got the original gently used key and it worked fine.

I just did this. When I put the belt over the tensioner it pulled the cam to the left one tooth. My bro said it was right, It wasnt. I ended up getting it right on the 3rd shot. Make sure thy line up exactly, I looked through the hole in the cam pully and centered the valve cover gasket in it. now all im waiting on is a petcock for my rad. good luck

What about this.NGK BPR6EY-11 What difference dose the Y make?

I found an new box of NGKs laying around Plug #BPR6ES-11 Are these fine for an EA82?

Ive only done one timing belt as of now and it was on my moms dodge spirit. It whined for a little while then i assume it broke in cause it dosent do it now and all seems good

I feel a bit weird being the only one posting over and over, but guess what? I have another question. I have the cam seals so I figure I can replace those now but in order to remove the cam sprocket I need the timing belt on to hold the cam in place.but the timing belt broke. I noticed when I had the valve cover off there was a flat spot on it to put a wrench on the cam to hold it place. is this my only option?maby im being to cautious but I dont want to bend the cam or anything stupid I got it. It worked fine. I came to the conclusion that I am thinking to hard about this and I need to use my self judgement and common sence.

thanks to NAPA I have the mickey mouse gasket in hand. Its Altrom brand. I couldnt find the o-ring or the shaft seal. Do you happen to have a Part #? As for the front crank seal. Do I just pop it out, coat the new one in oil and pop it in?

this is what I ordered. Should be 2 belts 2 tensioners and a pully for the drivers side belt. looking at a picture of the front of an ea82 it looks like there is 2 pulleys for JUST THE DRIVERS SIDE BELT. Is that right?

Sorry about not specifying engine type. Ill make sure to do that from now on.thanks for the tips on the a/c. so I can move the condenser AND the compressor without unhooking any lines? I got everything out of the way of the front of the engine except the condenser, now that I have the crank pulley off I really dont think I need it out of the way, but I will pull the compressor and set it in the battery tray. It will make things way easier. Thankyou If you want to follow up, ill post updates in the thread "I bough this EA82" I figured Id create a new thread for a better chance of feed back. Thank You, Its all greatly appreciated

HELL YEA!!!! Apparently the Timing belt kit is already in Spokane!! To bad Im in an outlying area So Ill stop by napa and get a set of cam tower seals. Part # TCS45687 Should be about $10 And oil pump seals, 3 of em right? Why cant I find a part # for these seals Theirs no need to touch the main crank seal if it appears to seal,right? Then OEM waterpump gasket and OEM Thermostat and gasket and thats all right??

Id pay 100- 150 for that particular engine if its complete. Set of pistons and rings on ebay run about $140 Main bearings $50 then a gasket set is $100-150 I really dont know what machine shops charge for crank and head work so that is a big variable. maby $400???? then what ever I forgot, rough estimate $800-$1000 Thats the best engine ever to work on in my opinion

I ended up using an old snap on ratchet and the handle of a full sized floor jack. I barely leaned into it to make sure the socket had a good seat on the bolt and it broke loose. It was hardly on there. I would like to pull the ac compressor and alternator bracket and the lower water pump line.its all right in the way

I removed my radiator on my 86 Subaru Gl for timing belts. I need to pull the condenser so I can use an impact gun on the crank pulley bolt. Can I just undo the lines or will that release the freon?

What ever happened with this. It sounds like a great Idea. except for the old subbie population will be dwindling. Bust out the Geos first

Yea,I know. I was just curious what OEM stuff would be. I ordered a Timing belt kit from the import experts. $68. Down side is waiting a week plus for it to arrive.

I just got of the phone with the local Subaru Dealer looking for prices. Water pump: $99.99 +$2 gaskets Oil pump$197.99 +$ 3.30 gaskets They had no "kit" for T-belts. $ 50 For EACH belt + $67 for one single pulley. Cam seals :$2.27 each. So I think Ill try to source a Gates T belt kit locally When it comes to the crank pulley can I just get it off with an electric impact? Then impact it back on? Do I need to replace the crank seal? How likely is it I can get away with just oil pump seals? Depends on pump? I might as well do the water pump seal. It looks like it will be 100 times easier to work without the Big clunky A/C compressor there. How do I make it safe to remove the lines? Im just trying to make sure I will have EVERYTHING and Know everything I need to do this job right the FIRST TIME

When I got the ea82 I noticed the shape of the hood would be perfect for a hood scoop. I pictured exactly what you have Turbone. Then I said to my self "make it run good before you make it look good". Even more I looked at prices for true wrx scoops:eek: Ill pass for now Its not like Im running an intercooler anyways