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Everything posted by 81EA81
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HAHA!! Mileage for proof. Kinda crappy shot of the side. and of course a pic of the Brat when wet Why the hell did I buy another Subaru when I have that Oh, do I need to pull the AC compressor off? How do I recover the Freon or what ever it may be?
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Indeed the right side timing belt snapped. Kinda funny it happened that quickly. ill post pics tomorow and hopefully be able to scrounge some money together for parts
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I heard gates way good for timing belts Part # TCK299 http://info.rockauto.com/Gates/1430382-295596.html Fel pro camshaft seals,$ 6.64 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=128174 What do you think. WHATS THE BEST QUALITY BRAND? What else beside oil pump gasket do I need while im at the timing belts?
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Valve cover off! again. I cant see any broken valve springs. Are the intake valves the inside two? Why are they spring over spring? ************ it! Im going to start tearing in
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Man I wish I had my camera on me!!I washed the subaru and I have to say the body seems to be in excellent shape considering the milage it has had on it and the price I payed.Little rust on the rear quarter panel but thats about it. It still has the original front windshield in perfect shape, and it looks like a factory subaru sticker still on the drive shaft. I know it means nothing without a pic. Anyways I just did a compression test and it didnt look so good. I started on cylinder 4 just cause it was hardest to reach 4: 122 2:150 3: went to 90 in one stroke 1:ZERO!!! Factory spec anyone? So ZERO caused by an open valve from passenger side timing belt? Also the spark plugs were a *************** to break loose. they were way too tight. They all had some metallic "thread sealer"?? on them, Ill get a pic tomorow if not tonight. I know I have a leaky intake manifold gasket putting a little bit of oil around the plug for cylinder 4. Im dreading pulling the intake but it will have to be done eventually. It looks like I will be doing the Timing belts too. It seems everything I have to remove to do both jobs will be one step away from pulling the engine I think tonight I will pull the radiator and at least the outer timing covers, or maby I should wait until I get an opinion and I actually have all the parts I need.
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Engine Pinging/Pre-Detination?
81EA81 replied to SoobDood05's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Check the timing? -
Need a 'remote' diagnoses on front end
81EA81 replied to SmashedGlass's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
cant say ivd done it to a subaru but I have done both fronts a 92 Ford f250 and rears a 96 Windstar(damn Fords:lol:) All you should need a press for are the bearing races in the hub. I put the hub on a wood block and just used a big screwdriver and an even bigger hammer to run along the edge of the raceway slowly tapping it out. then use the old race to tap in the new one. When I did this the old race almost got stuck in the hub with the new one. I remedied this by running the old race against a grinder for a few minutes, making it a bit smaller. Hope this helps and good luck. There should be a thread about this in the USRM -
EA81 in '85 Brat seems to be firing on two cylinders
81EA81 replied to whistler's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
maby on the spark plug end of the wire. unplug it from the plug and put a screwdriver in it and try to arch it on nearby metal??? -
I dont think anybody cares about another ea82 wagon but im posting anyway. I was on my way to apply for a position at a local lube center this morning and I decided to stop by Jack in the crack for some chow. I got my food and went to pull up to a parking stop in the near by wallmart parking lot. when i came to a stop the car started idling ************ty. i shut it of for the time being so i could eat, when I finished i popped the hood and checked the oil just outta habit, then I checked the plug wires, all secure. I started it again and it fired up but is sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders. off went the disty cap to check for pitted/burnt contacts. looked ok but I took the sandpaper to it any way. I fired it again, same deal. I left it running and pulled the plug wires one at a time to find dead cylinders. got shocked a coupla times:) if they are the same as ea81 then cylinders 1 and 3 were out.My thoughts for now are hopefully cap and rotor and plugs and wires are cause, or my pass side T belt snapped???? I didnt hear anything make a snap noise. Anyway I got to tow a subaru again cause i didnt want to run it like it was. I would run a compression test but I have no one help to crank it over or a way to hook up a remote switch. more updates tomorow
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The dreaded tick even after oil pump gasket exchange
81EA81 replied to derekdee's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
How long did you run it for? It takes a little bit for the lifters to quiet down once they are getting proper oil pressure -
Whats the best brand of cam tower o rings? It looks like a fun project.(not sarcastic) I would like this car to be completely leak free. I got the exhaust leak plugged at the mid point and had the old muffler hooked up using an old WD 40 can and a hose clamp. it was super quiet for a minute untill I hit some bad washboards on the dirt road. I drove it for 35 miles yesterday evening and all seemed fine beside the occasional rattle of the muffler. the TOD pretty much quit!!!! It happens at idle now and then but it is wayyyyyyyyyyy quieter then the CLACK CLACK is was hearing before. I am honestly supprised that they quieted down like that seeing it has 288,000 miles on it!! THATS DOUBLE THE BRATS MILEAGE!! Its dripped maby 5 drops of oil since last night and its all coming from a low spot on the right side of the block. No pic. apparently my mom took both cameras:rolleyes: There is a wet spot where the timing belt covers meet under the oil pump but I see no drips. When I turn the key to the on position and the warning lights light up there should be a CEL too, RIGHT? Im not seeing any. It looks like there could be one between the charge indicator and the EGR light. Are the heater control buttons vacuum operated? it kinda sounds that way and what the hell is BILEV? Thanks x1000
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I spent several hours last night cleaning up the underside of my engine,crossmember, skidplate and splash guards. No degreaser, just elbow grease and rags.I still have a ways to go. Man I reallly wish I had a solvent tank. I drove the car for a 3 mile trip and all seemed well beside the tick tick tick. No radio to drown it out either:lol: the lifters actually stopped ticking for maby 5 seconds or so.... no overheating, oil presssure with revs. (Highest I hit was 3k)seemed plenty Lots of oil cooking off the exhaust It has an exhaust leak mid way in the pipe and the muffler is broke off just kinda hanging by the rubber mounts. I will try to JB weld the mid leak today and hopefully find a cheap muffler. I noticed both rack and pinion boots are toast:eek: Need to figure that out before too long. More to come.Thanks
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I feel like an idiot for asking this. the engine idles at 2000 rpm and it wont kick down. I looked for an idle adjust screw and saw 2 that could be it, I gave them a few quarter turns and it did not do much. I made sure to put them back to where they were so I wouldnt mess anything up. I tried to research.all i found out was to let the engine warm up to temp and make sure there are no vac leaks. What is the proper way to adjust idle? Nevermind. the throttle cable was too tight. got it now
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Ive tried reading previous threads about this and I havent done much but spend too much time sitting in front of my computer reading away. I have a 300,000 mile carburated ea82 that is almost done. When it goes out I want to put my ea81 in it. I know I need the 24 spline friction disc, Whats up with the flywheel? can I keep it as is? engine mounts line up right? what about wiring to coil/ disty? Id much rather have an ea81 vs the ea82 can someone please enlighten me?
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All I can help with is a stock EA81 4wd manual wagon should weigh about 2200lbs ea82 3,400
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As of midnight I have new valve cover gaskets! The drivers side is a pain it the soob but it all worked out fine. I was stoked when the old gaskets lifted right out, they where hard and brittle but came out it one piece! :banana:amazing compared to how the Brat went with the removal of the cork gaskets. The passenger side gasket had maby 1/4 in of the material missing. Im guessing it dried out and shrank down. I fired it up for maby 2 minutes to look for leaks. I saw NONE! lets hope it looks the same today! Went from a steady stream to nothing! I have to say It sounded more like the CLACK of death rather "tick". I will add some seafoam to the oil today and hope it quites down a bit.. I have several questions but the excitment caused them to slip my mind! Oh, I noticed the intake gasket looks messed up. Pic here Looks smashed?any input? Can a head gasket leak oil from the bottom side? There is a few spots where it looks like it has a small leak between the head and block.lets hope not. Will an oil pump with a failed mickey mouse gasket leak externally? It read maby 45 psi on the oil pressure gauge, That makes me think the oil pump is ok. Right? I have a video from under the right head looking for leaks. I dont know how well the audio is but ill consider posting it if anyone wants to listen to the clack. Im sure more questions to come Thanks for the help:)
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Had my '85 Brat for a week now, a few questions
81EA81 replied to whistler's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I know you didnt ask me, but the wiper arms are easy to remove. Pop the plastic cap off and theres just one nut to remove, should be a 12mm. then pull. -
There was a new unused battery sitting in my friends garage since December of 09. I think it was for a ford ranger.It surprisingly held a charge! Since batterys have gone up to close to 100 bucks I figured Id see if the battery that had been sitting would fit. I didnt have an ea82 anywhere near to measure so........... Turns out it fits perfect:banana: well its alittle skinny but proper height
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I got the car back safely! I havent fired it up since but I was checking out the engine and I realized how much room overhead cams and T belts take up.then the disty way in back. NO vacuum line to the EGR,, I noticed a few other open lines to. Hill holder isnt hooked up at all.Wont that wear out the clutch faster because the hill holder acts like a return spring? The first thing I wanted to do was throw out the ea82 for an EA81 but I kinda just spent most of my money so I cant really afford that at the moment.so for now I will try to get it to hold oil. It looks like its coming from the valve covers but I cant say for sure. Do I need to pull the timing belt covers to get the valve covers off? It kinda looks that way. Whats up with the seams? it looks like, Block, Head,[?], valve cover? When I do the valve cover gaskets do I install it dry? I need input! more input!(short circuit) Thanks! Just found out about a cam body. Is that a common place to leak oil from? possibly warpage
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Had my '85 Brat for a week now, a few questions
81EA81 replied to whistler's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did that a few years back on the 81 gl wag. Im sure you have to take the cowl off. Pop your hood and there are maby 4 or 5 phillips head screws running along where your hood and the cowling meet near the window. Im not 100% sure but after you get those out the cowling may be able to pop up enough to get the fender bolts. When I did it I removed the whole thing. which involved removing the wipers. I think i ended up puling the hood off too? In the end it was a pain in the rump roast to line up right so the hood would clear the cowling. Some one else might chime in with fresher expertise. Hope this helps -
Id say a stainless ruler is better then a tape.Thank you for taking the time to do that.
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Well Im on my way to go tow it as is. Lets hope its ok tire wise
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So i ended up buying an 86 Gl wag earlier, I never thought I would ever get an ea82 before.Its been on craigslist since spring for $595. I had no interest in it being hardcore ea81.They eventually dropped the price to $395.It dose run but it poors a steady stream of oil from under the right head/valve cover:( They told me it was marked to scrap The body seems pretty clean with not much rust. It has 280,000mi which is pretty high. I offered $200.They wouldnt go any lower so I ended up getting it for $383.83 oddly enough. Not the best deal but not bad. Since it pours so much oil I figured ether stop every 2 blocks and pour a quart or two in it and make a 30 mile trail of oil!It would be easiest to tow it home. Then I realized it has studded tires all around. If it was up to me it wouldnt matter but I can get a big ticket for that! So I had to drive back to my place to get the wheels off the 81 gl Which is way out in the woods on rocky terrain. It was a pain it the rump roast! I finally got it sitting on some steel wheels on the "frame rails"with all tires of the ground. I Trail 90'd two of em and carried the other 2 back to the car. By the time I got back to the soob they closed the gates where it was at which kinda sucked, I was really looking forward to getting it home. I was able to get to the car by foot so I was able to swap tires. The ones I ended up using were 185/70-13 stock steelys on the front then aluminum alloys on the back. I then noticed the tires I put on the back are a bit taller and wider. To bad I forgot the size:rolleyes: Is it fine to tow this thing with bigger tires on the rear? A coupla pics of the car with studless tires.
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Can someone Do a quick measurement on there EA82 battery, Im mainly concerned about the height. Im going to pick one up and Id like to know if the battery I have will clear the hood. If I have to tow it is it safe to tow with to power? as long as the key is in the ignition to prevent wheel lock.