81EA81

They came with carpet in back originally didnt they? Im sure it would be easy to cut to fit

How bout a beautiful woman:grin:JK I think that bed mat would be your best bet I had a friend with a Baja bug that ply wooded it up at a 45 deg. angle and then filled it with speakers.

Jumpseat belts are on a ratcheting roll, Kinda like old chevy truck seat belts. and the receiving end is just the striker plate attached to a steel cable. I have a pair I kinda want to hold onto, but If the price is right ($1,000)

Interesting, I had thought about the DOT approval, Then I remembered that in Idaho you can legaly drive ATVS on the road.

Im just curious if anybody has used ATV tires on there Subaru

Nice ride. I Just read this thread from end to end. looked like alot of fun.So how did it go with the exhaust.

So the point of the GM Alt. swap is more amps? Whats wrong with the stock soob

DAMN! That thing is CLEAN!Its beautiful!

What did you do to the bumper on that thing, it looks great! Haha that hilarious, I never thought id see another zeebrat ever again:grin:

Ive been trying to troubleshoot electrical problems on my Brat for what feels like forever, Ive fished all around the engine bay for bad wires and I had honestly almost given up. Today I hooked up the battery and the drivers side cooling fan will start up and stay on with the key on or off. Im sure it didnt do that before. I tried unplugging the thermosensor on the radiator and it was all corroded green, I cleaned it up and as I plugged it back in I accidently broke off the little bullet connector:eek: so I assume I need to replace that. Then I noticed the headlights stay on with the key off. they used to turn off with the key even if the headlight switch was still on,I dont know whats up. Ill go ahead and pick up the new thermo switch or what ever its called and hopefully someone can help me out. Thanks:)

+1 on murphys wood soap. I used to use it all the time, It also has an unforgeable good smell. I personally dont care for foamy engine brite, though Ive never used it on plastic Ive used it a few times on engines to little to no avail. Definatly dosent cut it on an old leaky subaru engine:)

For future reference I believe its called a beauty ring. not that it really matters

I would assume he saw the boots were intact and considered them fine. When I replaced mine the boots looked ok it just cooked all the grease out and it was super stiff

all rise for the mighty GD (: EDIT: Theres a place called Hopkins Subaru here in town. Never been but I hear nothing but good

Im still having ridiculous problems with my brat, I found out my friends 00 outback is giving him trouble too. its not the best time to discuss right now, But ill give this a shot. Who knows it may help. If not, it will not be the cause of future problems.Ill think of it as preventive maintenance. Just stay positive:)

That was quite a gap in the posts. Heres a picture of my 81 Gl with 230,000miles on it. This is the first car I ever drove and its the car that started it all:) About 5 years ago somebody hit it and bent the control arm. it got parked and sat thru the winter popped the freeze plugs, my buddy then tried to fire it up and it blew more smoke the 100 burning tires. Then last summer I dragged it out to the friends place out in the middle of nowhere, where it will hopefully sit undisturbed until i have the money to play with it Its right at the edge of a 20 foot cliff overlooking a pond:) Then the BRAT, after the clutch it ran great for a year untill a few weeks ago crazy wireing problems. It technically runs, I just dont want it to catch fire:eek: I miss her dearly Oh yea this too. I got it for free after I bought the back window out of it for 40 bucks for my other buddy http://www.flickr.com/photos/59058330@N03/5411346325/

That thing is pretty nice for how old it is. Cool lookin car. Haha our Subarus have the same tires

Ignore the rust and thats a pretty nice car. the paint looks pretty nice still, at least from the pics. You have the plaid seats and the passing light, both bumpers look straight. it reminds me of my mild yellow 81 that started it all:) my favorite of all wagons nice score:banana:

If it were me I would use the boots if you have them just to keep dirt/rocks and road grime out and prolong the life of them I honestly dont know a whole lot about shocks but those look like they should have a boot on them. https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/archive/pictures/78053/600/1/P/6B54252/subaru_gl_10_1986_rear_shock_absorber_oem_341216.jpg If they were naked id think they would get dinged up eventually and maby start leaking?

I got my Brat with an inoperable clutch, It would run but not go into gear. I gave the guy 500 bucks popped the hood, took the 5 minutes to adjust the cable all the way out and drove it home:grin:The guy was shocked:grin: I 2nd that on the '84 model year when ordering parts. Ea81 wagons went from '80-84, ea81 Brats to '87 EA82 wagons from '85-'92? See the overlap? When I finally had to replace the clutch I orderd it for an 86 and got the 24 spline friction disk for an EA82 vs the 21 spline for the EA81 Everything fit fine beside the throwout bearing and of course the friction disk. I bolted it all back together and I had no power to the wheels:mad:. I could of saved alot of time and frustration if I told them it was an 84. Or I could of just test fit the disk on the shaft before installing it. At least I learned something from it:)

Pretty nice. I also have an 86. Try and adjust the clutch cable. the clutch fork is located under the hood on the top right half of the tranny(If you were sitting in the car). Its under the spare tire so if ya have one of those in there you might want to pull it out. there should be two cables connected to the clutch fork. the one running to the fire wall is the clutch cable. the one going the other way is the hill holder. it runs to a valve inline with the brake lines that applys the brakes when starting off on a hill making take off easier for inexperienced clutch operators. There should be a clip near the clutch fork that holds the hill holder cable in place, remove it and you should be able to pull the cable out of its bracket then unhook it from the fork its self. The clutch cable its self should have a threaded portion about 2'' long with two nuts on it, this is your range of adjustment,the little one on it is a lock nut,I think its a 10mm, the big one is the adjuster nut it should be 12mm if not then 14mm. break loose the lock nut, then tighten the larger nut while making sure to hold the cable in place to prevent it from rotating with the adjuster nut. there should be a spot to hold on to it with a small crescent wrench at the base of the cable covering. Give it a few turns then hop in the car to see how it feels. There should be about an inch of movement at the top of the petal before you feel resistance. It might take a few good turns but hopefully you'll get it. The clutch should have some life left with 128k unless it was driven hard. Hope this helps. good luck OOPS! 1000+ Posts so you may already know this

Especially when the tow rig has a 383 stroker:grin:

YAY! ITS BACK UP! Anyway, I striped the electrical tape off several wires and found that half of them are smashed with damaged insulation and some have exposed wire. Im just trying to think of how the hell this happened. Hopefully tomorow Ill be able to contact the PO and see what he has to say. I assume he did it since he had it since 1991. Thankfully I have a spare harness I pulled out of a wrecked car, so if need be I should be able to cut out the damaged chunk and and replace it. Lets hope this is the source of my problems.

WTF, so apparently its not spliced. At least the one wire i stripped down. It was still all covered by the original casing and It looked a bit discolored from heat in about an inch of wire but thats about it. could it be from an electrical overload or engine heat? its kinda a love hate thing Oh well, Ill get it down