81EA81

I did it on an old Trail 90 with worn rings, If its not a lot of oil it shouldn't harm it

A good rule of thumb, DONT REDLINE AN OLD ENGINE if you want it to last. Now back to my damed POS GEO TRACKER

They make EJ _EA Kits. I know you need the wiring harness from the car the EJ came out of to run the ECU...ECT. Also SJR has an engine to tranny adapter plate. honestly thats about all I know when it comes to this. If it were me Id keep the wrx for going fast and leave the Brat to where it won't become a crumpled up chunk of metal that was once bad rump roast.

How did that JB weld hold up

Isnt the 4x4 sticker backwards?

Ohms is resistance,Right? what should it read,should it have 12.6 volts to it?

At the time being all I have is a test light, Ill update when I have the proper tools. Thanks GD

DAMN! That engine looks CLEAN!!! 1.6?same with the tranny. im digging those valve covers too, :slobber:wheww! lets see the rest of the car

So I get nothing with the sending unit wire unplugged key on, I plugged it back in and turn the key to acc. and on and nothing, then I turned the key to lock then back to acc. then it jumped to 75 so that means its getting 12 volts from somewhere its not supposed to? With the key in the "ON" position with the warning lights on, the gauge gets no power.

So would it most likely be at the sending unit, the gauge its self or the wiring in between? I cleaned the connection at the S U and the little connector about 3 inches after that. I traced the wiring up to the intake where it gose into a harness then up under the coil. Its a yellow wire with a single black stripe. Dose anybody have a wiring diagram?

So on I let my mom borrow the BRAT:eek: while I was messing with this sad Geo Tracker that I found,which is a pain in the A to work on compared to a Soob. When she returned she said she noticed the oil pressure had droped to ZERO. She immediately stopped the engine and waited a few minutes for any oil to settle, checked it and there was oil on the dipstick. then she drove it easy the next 6 miles home.The first thing I did was crawl under it to look for the sending unit wire and it was there and intact from what I could tell from the dusk light. I waited for the engine to cool, checked the oil which was at its appropriate level nice and clean and did not smell burnt. when the key is on the pressure gauge jumps to 75, as soon as the engine fires it SLOWLY drops to ZERO. it once hovered around 20 psi once, yes i tried the search feature and couldn't find what I sought. I've heard these can be fairly inaccurate but have little personal experience in this department. Now that it is light out I will go and have a look. Oh yea its a 1986 Subaru Brat with the original EA81 with 168,xxx mi Thank you

Idk about the thread size but when i bought my Brat of course I did a tune up which included spark plugs. when the original ones were on there way out it would get loose then tight then loose again......when i got them out the threads were pretty chewed up, thankfully I was able to get the new plugs to thread in o.k. again loose then tight then loose again then kinda barely tight enough to work. its been about 6000-7000 miles on it since then and I fear every minute my plugs will blow out:eek: Im willing to leave it alone for now but I would like to be prepared for the fix when when the time comes. any opinions or first hand experience?

WD40 and Seafoam every orifice:) jk bout the WD but for sure seafoam

Do ya have a/c? If so that hose is for the evaporator. its hangin down on my brat right by the mount for the e brake cable

+1 on the junkyard snags Check out this nasty Pcv fitting that came off the BRAT. I cleaned out the whole system

Did it work? Cool so here is a pic of the underside of my block,The hole is right under the oil pump.

I need your exhaust:). That wheel well is looking MUCH better. Great build

Let me do a little research and we may have a deal

So I got my oil pan off pretty easily,when I peeked inside I found two different spots of metal shavings that were collected in the bottom of the pan.(Got pics but how do I give my image a URL?). When I was wiping them out I found a chunk that was approximately the size of a BB, a little smaller.NOT GOOD.Then when I was cleaning the block surface, I noticed a little hole near the two bolts that are closest to each other at the front of the engine. Not were the oil pan sits,but inward about 2" or so where the block halves meet.(got pics)Im thinking this is where the metal came from, But I dont know for sure. Dose anybody have pics of there bottom end so I can compare. As far as the gasket went, I ended up using Blue RTV I had laying around. I applied it to the oil pan side only with the cork gasket,It seemed to seal O.K. Torque specs said 3.3-4.0 lbs. That seems like nothing to me, and I dont have a torque wrench that goes that low so I lightly snuged them with a screw driver,now it looks like my oil pump is leaking a little too.

WOW, now i feel like an idiot. It turns out the crossmember has a hole in it for each bolt, pretty convenient.:)Only on a Subaru:)

Do I need unbolt and slide the engine forward to access the 5 or so bolts at the rear of the oil pan that are coverd by the crossmember ?

So my Brat is in need of an oil pan gasket, The only one i could find was cork. does anybody have an opinion about different gasket material? Should I install it dry? or with some RTV? I was thinking RTV between the pan and the gasket only. any Ideas?

So I finally made the adventure to my 81 wagon today, I assume its the original engine.#574656. Mfg in 4/81

Do you have a pair of strut blocks for an EA81?