81EA81

I fill my transmission with 3 quarts of gear oil. I couldnt tell you why yours is so overfull. it looks like the correct dipstick however it seems pretty dirty. For the spedometer cable there should be a seal at the end of the cable on the tranny. it is likely worn and needs replaced. EA81 FSM says Capacity 4-speed and 5-speed (except 4WD) (2.9 US qt ) (4WD) (3.2USqt)

As far as looks go Id stay with the earlier styling. but I dont drive an old Subaru for looks:) I know the earlier styling(85-86) are much weaker and just consist of a plastic cap clipped onto a thin metal frame,however 87- and on have an impact absorbing foam core and seem much sturdier. yes they are more shelf like but im sure in was an "upgrade" for a reason.

Good point, bolts are a much better idea. likely an 8mm1.25

Dose this look like the correct waterpump for my 86 EA82 wagon w/ac? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1872106 I know the ac water pump has studs right? I dont see any water pumps on rock auto with studs so I assume I will need to transfer the studs from my old pump to the new? And gaskets? OEM is best of course but out on order. I could either use this gasket wait for OEM or maby just use straight RTV? Thanks

any word on the valve spring pic? EJ TB return spring?

First off. the key to this board is to use the search function. you need the Throwout Bearing and Pilot bearing.the throw out bearing is attached to the clutch fork by 2 little steel clips,in my case the kit came with just the bearing and not the holder to attach it to the fork, it will have to be pressed on. the pilot bearing is the one in the end of the crankshaft/flywheel. As far as the clutch kit it should be an 8 7/8" 24 spline. 99% sure. Honestly the pic kinda looks like a rubber grommet for the distributor. is it for sure metal? my thoughts would be if you cant see anything in the area that looks broken it should be fine.It most likely fell down the inspection hole at some point. Again try and use the search function. it my take time but I guarantee you will find any info you need about your Subaru

Bump for a good laugh and many oddly true statements.

Good read bump

Dont forget about the freeze plugs in the head. I thought I blew up my first subie, turned out to be a popped freeze plug. Just an Idea

Recently the Brat started to overcharge. I thought it was the gauge so I got my DMM.(best 5 bucks I spent) on the battery and the voltage slowly climbed to 18v then I shut it off. I assumed the alternator was the issue. Lucky for me I have a spare that came with the car. As I went to install it I was having trouble getting the ears to fit on the bracket. Then I thought could the be different styles of alternators for EA series cars? Do the 80-82 style alternators differ from the rest? no IC Reg.(internal Current?) Here is a pic of the alternator that came off the Brat. Heres the spare I had troubles getting to fit. Alt. off the 81 Wagwam All three. So do the early EA81s have an external regulator? Can I run it on the 86?Thankyou

Silly me, it turned out to be a fuse. I swore I checked once. It never hurts to double check. Thankyou cougar.Oddly enough I think the Alt in my ea81 just went TU

Good rule of thumb. " you get what you pay for". Its cheap for a reason. I bought a water pump/timing belt kit for $60 online. Good price however the pump didnt even fit.

It was indeed. subaru in general

woops,double post

Resurrection time. My clock in my 86 EA82 recently started to set its self at 1:00 almost every time I start my car, and when I push my horn the hatch warning lights up. Any Ideas. Thanks

The first time I replaced a clutch It was in my EA81 Brat. I decided to pull the transmission.Lucky for me I was able to use a lift:banana: I didnt have a problem with ball joints or cv s.The linkage can be a bit tricky. Of course it poured gear oil when I pulled the driveline out. I found an aerosol can cap fit ok enough to slow down the leak.The tranny was a bit heavy, however I was able to lower it with one helper and set it on a bench. But honestly the worst part for me was getting the tranny input shaft lined back up. for some reason that seemed to take the longest of all. In my opinion the only advantage of this is not having to mess with anti-freeze:) If you have another person to help lift Im sure you will find it mush easier to pull the engine. The whole procedure is surprisingly simple. I find an engine more of a regular shape and easier to manuver and lift vs an elongated transmission to drop. and all you have to do is drop the engine is place rather lift the tranny up.

hows the car run after that? Ive wanted to do this in my ea82 but I like smooth wheel bearings. pros vs cons?

Ive recently noticed my 81 EA81 Subaru has a calliper different bolt then my 85 EA81 Brat. I thought it would be the same all EA81

So is the EGR pipe up front on the drivers side?Or is it down below drivers side?What about the cams? they sit pulleys forward but backward in the heads?

IM not positive that everything is functioning properly on my ea82, but I check the oil daily and it always fires up. When I climb the long freeway hills we have here, I try to get as much momentum as I can before the hill in 5th going 80 at times. then as soon as I hear my engine start to struggle Ill hit 4th and effectively cruise at 4.5k sometimes 5k RPM at most all the way to the top. It used to be nerve wracking. but I accepted it. Then once you make it up to the top and you shift your running a 3k which suddenly sounds bogged compared to 5k rpm Shift by ear or Tach? however I have noticed My EA81 dosent like the high revs nearly as much as the EA82. but if you slowly creep into the higher rpm the smoother it seems to run.

I WANT one. Good luck on that one unless you are willing to spend the big bucks There was one on ebay for maby $200 on a "Black Diamond" edition 84 wagon Honestly youd be better off building one

Thanks and yes I do, I was very weary of it at first, But it makes it so much easier to work on without them. the only down side is the ease of spilling oil on the passenger side belt while maintaining your oil level. It scared me at first cause when I got the new belts it says if any oil or anti freeze comes into contact with the new belt no matter how quickly you wipe it away you should consider the belt garbage as the chemicals will start to break down the rubber. Ive spilt a few good splukes of oil on it and I wiped it away as soon as I could.If you look close enough at the last pic where the two timing belts meet at the crank you can see the difference in each other. the passengers side has lines in it and the drivers side doesn't. Oh well.If it breaks I run around with 2 spare belts anyway. as long as im not in a snow bank of something it should take about 15-20 minutes to change them both out. I kept the covers around just in case it didnt work out but its been close to 4,000miles and all seems well I love your BumbleBeast and good luck running coverless

I figured Id update. I chased the threads in the heads and cleaned all the surfaces and hooked everything back up. It all went together surprisingly easy. It seemed to burn antifreeze for maby 10 minutes. It runs much quieter now. Before the car bounced around at idle now its nice n smooth. Intake removal is really nothing to be afraid of. Right side intake Left side tried to clean up the top of the engine

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