sea#3

That idler attaches to the water pump , just replace the pump and your off to the races SEA#3

Chip Have a look in the left hand front fender just beside the battery , right inside the fender just behind the headlight Thats where it is on an 05 model ,just can't remember if it's the same on a 03 H6 SEA#3

Even though it'sa PITA , you could pull 1 coil , stick a plug in it and crank it over to see if you are gettting any spark Just a question , is the 2002 engine out of a standard or automatic and what is it going into ? (standard or automatic) SEA#3

ScoobySchmitty Was the car overheating before you did the water pump and the thermostat? If it wasn't you may have put the thermostat in backwards or you have a faulty thermostat out of the box The rusty ting of the coolant could be from the engine overheating and loosening some of the sediment in the motor and radiator Did you open the bleeder on the right side of the radiator when you filled it up ? Like Clutchbob says the 2.2 is basically bullet proof , but depending on how many miles are on it , and putting new coolant in it there is a possiblity that the head gaskets may have been weak and the new coolant flushed away the sedement that was keeping things together SEA#3

When you replace the knock sensor did you clean the block where it seats . It needs a good contact to the block ,also it should be torqued to 18 lbs/ft SEA#3

Matty L Now that I have a better picture of what might have happen, it's starting to make sense why the dealer is saying it's not warranty First , the front diff oil transferring to the trany oil in unlikely , unlike the ATF going into the front diff oil , because there is ATF oil pressure in the tube there is no pressure the other way around . Second, did your sister have the car serviced just before her trip? If she did I think some one might have drained the front diff and forgot to fill it up. Especially if it was one of those "lube places” I have seen the effects of some of there work . This is why the dealer would say it would not be warranty and maybe why SOA is a little reluctant to be the consumer-advocac SEA#3

Read this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21878 SEA#3

How long did you run the engine before you took your compression test ? If you assembled it and did a compression test , one of the hydralic valve lash adjusters may be holding the valve open . Run the engine for about 10-15 minutes @ 2000 rpm ( make sure you rad fans are working ) Let it sit for a couple of hours (too cool off) and recheck your compression reading If they are still low in that cylinder a leak down test would be the next thing to do . hope that helps SEA#3

OK scenario #2 Get them to check the front diff level, sometimes the ATF gets "pumped" into the front diff . There is a tube that can leak between the torque converter and the trany which goes through the front diff. So ATF goes into the front diff ,trany level is low and no signs of a leak That would be warranty SEA#3

So it's possible the radiator was taken out by the bodyshop. If so the cooler lines were disconnected and most likley left hanging while they repaired the car and some of the trany fluid leaked out of the lines . They pop the car back together and don't top the trany up .There's your low level and no leak sea#3

You say it was invovled in an accident . Where was it hit and what was done ? SEA#3

Pull the engine ,it's way easier to do the head gaskets, To torque the heads in the car is a pain Things to look at when it's out 1) separator plate , which is behind the flywheel - updated aluminium plate - old style black plastic 2) oil pump plate screws -tend to loosen off and cause oil leak 3) water pump - up to you -it may be time 4)t-belt - got it off - it maybe time As for the clutch you will have to take it off if you do the separator plate SEA#3

Yes it still might have the correct resistance reading but may not produce a signal to the ECM . The ECM only looks at the resistance reading to monitor wether to trip the CEL or not on the knock sensor circuit SEA#3

The misfire could have been caused by the valve lash adjuster being to tight, which in turn may have burnt the valve .Causing the low compression Running the car for a year with a misfire probably didn't help and would have an negative effect on the catalytic converter as well If the insurance company is going to pay for the one side only (which they may)I would suggest you do both sides (valve grind , head gaskets ,ect) SEA#3

Try this and read the reply I sent http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21878&highlight=sea%233 SEA#3

Asuming that ignition and compression are OK . I would look at the fuel injector . Try swaping #1 and #3 injectors and see if the code follows SEA#3

The front 02 sensor (air/fuel sensor) is located in the front section of the front catalytic convertor , just below the inner c/v joint on the right side . The wire should be attached to a wire strap that is connected to one of the transmission studs .The connector is right buy the main harness just below the air filter housing on the right Hope that helps SEA#3

The mode door acuator motor might be defective ,it is on the heater matrix on the left side just above the accel pedal Try cycling the modes as you look under the dash ,it should rotate the lever and adjust the doors in the heater matrix If it just sits there and clicks, the gears inside the motor are probably stripped Also there is a wiring harness that goes by the motor with a tie-strap that holds it matrix , the end of that strap can jam the motor so make sure it does't interfere Hope that helps SEA#3

You could get a second opinion . I would sugest doing a leak down test and with the rad topped up . Watch the rad level as the cylinder is presurized . If the level over flows thats your clyinder the head gasket is popped on More than likely the gaskets are gone and possibly the heads are warped Hope this helps SEA#3

First everything is OK Do you have the keyless transmitter ? just hit the disarm and the lights should stop flashing If you don't have the transmitters ,look for a little black button on the left underside of the kneepad( drivers side ) Push the button in and turn the ignition to the on position , lights should stop flashing SEA#3

65 lb/ft SEA#3

Get the dealer to check the speedo cable for oil , although I have not had a Subaru do this I have had other makes pump oil from the speedodrive in the trany up the cable and leak out at the speedo head SEA#3

When did this happen ? Out of the blue or after a sudden jolt ? If it was after a sudden jolt and it was in nuetral at the time it could have popped into a gear from enertia If that's the fact you will have to pull the trany and at least the extention housing to rectify the problem by aligning the gates back up where the shifter lever goes Hope this helps SEA#3

Sageru Sorry to hear that didn't help , it has for me ,but it was probably a different cause In stead of buing a new 02 sensor disconnect it when it acts up and see what the engine rpm does. Also when it is acting up give the coolant temp sensor a "wiggle" and see if it changes the engine rpm I know this doesn't sound to professional but with out a scan tool and looking at live data it sort of hit and miss SEA#3

MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor, it is attached to your air filter housing You may want to read the codes first Try this : www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Read it all the way through it covers many models Once you have the code you may have your problem Hope this helps SEA#3