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coloradosubarules Most likely it's the sealer on that side of the oil pump that has broken down . Pull the oil pump off and reseal it with some RTV sealant.Permatex gray if you can find it . You will have to replace the seal under the oil pump and also the crank seal Note : check the screws on the back of the oil pump they tend to loosen over time , a dab of locktite wouldn't hurt SEA#3

hammer008 I'm assuming this is a wagon. Jack the car up and put it on jack stands, remove the wheel and loosen the two bolts that hold the strut to the bearing housing Now the proper way to disconnect the brake line from the strut is to unbolt it, some people cut/slot the bracket so they don’t have to bleed the brakes. This is up to you to decide! Being in Toronto I’ll bet it’s a little rusted Remove the cover on the strut tower /speaker cover, remove the speaker with its support bracket under that there is a black piece of insulation lift that up. You should see 3 nuts (12mm); those hold the top of the strut. Support the suspension and unbolt the nuts .Let the suspension down (CAREFULLY) 2" and stop, Now there is a cover at the top of the strut that you will have to take off (8mm bolts) These bolts are usually seized, so I hope you have some good penetrating oil! Once you have the cover off you can access the air line to the strut at the solenoid. Gently pry the 3 tags back that hold the air line in the solenoid (be careful you are going to use the solenoid again if you did not get one on your new strut. You should get new o-rings for the solenoid and the air line) Next the electrical connection is accessed up at the body, follow it up to the body to the grommet pull the grommet out and "gently" pull the wire till you pull the connectors through the body then disconnect it there. Make sure it doesn’t fall back inside the body! Lower the strut further take it out and reverse the order to install Hope this helps SEA#3

SevenSisters Well said! There is also the practice after changing pads of just "pumping up the brakes" all the way to the floor which can cause damage to the seals in the master cylinder, if it's been in service for a while and the fluid hasn't been changed. Also forcing that debris down the line or damage the seals in the master cylinder Now before you say "I’ve done that 100's of time and never had a problem”. Why not use the information to maybe save yourself some grief in the future I have SEA#3

cgcrunner If the fluid level is OK. Then it is probably the Forward clutch pack seals in your tranny that have worn out, which causes the intermittent NO DRIVE situation Meaning --tranny overhaul Does your car still have warranty? If so off to the dealer SEA#3

The inhibitor/safety/prndl switch is located on the right hand side of the transmission underneath by the transmission oil pan The connector for it is at the top of the transmission by the firewall SEA#3

Greg55_99 I think you’re on the right track! Since you have replaced your clutch I would be looking at the adjustment for the hill holder The adjustment is at the clutch fork for the throw out bearing (just below the throttle body) First check the free play on the clutch and adjust it as necessary, should be 3-5mm play Then adjust the Hill holder cable so that it disengages the hill holder just as the clutch engages Just a question do the brakes bind up going down hill? If they do it may be someting else , if they don't then look at the hill holder Hope that helps SEA#3

duosubaruo It wouldn't hurt, write down the codes before you clear them You could then tap the relay and see if you get any codes as well SEA#3

duosubaruo I have done a couple of legacy’s with this problem that you have described. Both ended up being Main relay, going intermittent while under load and staling when pulling into a parking space. Although you said he check engine light has not come on have you checked for codes? Check for codes 35 Cpc solenoid and (22 or24) Iac valve operation, if these 2 codes show up and you have the symptoms you say I would start with the relay You can try and cause it to fault some times by tapping it (gently) with a long screwdriver while the car is running. What will happen usually is the car will run rough and then stabilize or stay rough running until you shut the ignition off and restart the car So now your asking where is this relay? This is the part where you don't want anyone around that doesn't want to hear you swear alot, because the engineers put it in a really tight spot The relay is located above the inside fuse box on the left "a" pillar behind the dash. You will have to remove the knee pad on the lower part of the dash to see the relay If you look way back in on the left side you will see 3 relays, the one you want is the brown (Jidtco) relay Have fun and hope this helps SEA#3

jclay Hope this might help http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/6c/ea/0900823d801c6cea.jsp SEA#3

subimp96 You may run into a problem getting the front 02 sensor out if it is seized /rusted(which can happen especially in your neck of the woods) and you will need a special socket to get it out as well. Although if you have patience of a saint you could try and get it out with a 22mm wrench (it will be tight) The part you have to buy, the labour is all you’re going to save on It's your call! SEA#3

subimp96 There are two o2 sensors on your car; the first one is in the front catalytic converter just below the right side inner C/V joint. The second one is on the rear catalytic converter and is just behind the transmission cross member SEA#3

AussieIan Did you check the rubber mounts at the top of the struts; they are notorious for delaminating and cause a clunk SEA#3

Phillip Did you clean off the block surface with some sand paper before installing the new sensor and torque the bolt to 20 lbs/ft. The sensor uses the block as it ground circuit and if there is any corrosion you may get an incorrect reading SEA#3

88xt6joe SevenSisters is right. Start by checking for power right at the motor first ( if memory serves me right there should be a red wire and a black wire running into the motor ) If there is power and the ground is ok , give the motor a "TAP" and see if it comes back to life ,if it does then you’ll be buying a motor The relay should be by the A pillar and the glove box opening (Can’t remember the color of the relay, but look for the color of the power wire for the blower motor) SEA#3

So this started after you replaced the 1/2 axle? If so it still may be the axle What can happen is when it is "Remanufactured" Inner joint is made to tight and when under torque it will bind and cause a vibration while taking off, The vibration at idle can be caused by the inner joint binding as well, when the car is in drive there is torque in the forward direction, if the inner joint can not move in and out with the movement of the engine/ transmission, it tens to make things solid and transmit the vibration from the engine/ transmission thought the axle to the body of the car Question is how much more money do you want to throw at this and it may rectify itself as the axle wears in ! SEA#3

88xt6joe Does it work on any of the speeds ? If it works on 4 and not on 1-3 it is probably the drop resistor is open , It"s located behind the glove box in the heater housing ( Look for a white connector with 4 wires ) SEA#3

speakermakers But you did not open the bleeder screw when you did this? So you pushed the old nasty brake fluid that was in the calipers back into your ABS / Hydraulic unit and into your master cylinder. Could be expensive Some thing you could check is the pad fitment to the caliper holder, if the pads are binding in the holder it will give you a soft/ spongy pedal feel Also did you turn the rotors? If you did not then it may take time for the pads to wear into the groves on the rotors from the previous pads SEA#3

LisaG Give me a list i'll try and get you the data SEA#3

LisaG I would have your technician look at the coil first. It is quite common for the coil tower on your model to crack on the coil towers, people tend to lean on them when working on the engine. Check for corrosion at the coil tower and the high tension leads as well , You can do a quick check by spraying down the coil with a spray bottle and take a grounded wire and hook it around a screw driver . Now move the screw driver over the coil near the coil towers, if every thing is ok nothing should happen. If not it should cause a misfire The other problem with the Air flow sensor may be related to the misfire,I would fix the missfire then see if the A/F sensor cones back If the A/F sensor code does come back I would be looking at a wiring problem rather than a sensor problem . The odds that 2 sensor go in that short of time is very slim . Are you using a stock air filter? SEA#3

paladin_w Have you replaced the sparkplug leads, are they original? Try this next, get a spray bottle with water in it and spray around the coil area with the engine running and see if the engine will start to misfire .If it does then you may have leaky spark plug wires or possibly a cracked coil tower Also check the ends of the coil towers for corrosion (look for green furry stuff) What type of plugs did you put in? Platinum or regular plugs ,When did you replace the plugs 3500 miles ago or at the 120k mile point? ( not clear) What was the gap set at ? On your other two codes P0325 knock sensor - just replace it, what usually happens with them is they go open circuit and set a code. Then reconnect and work for a while and depending on heat and vibration will go open and trigger a code again (Quite common ) P0400 flow malfunction- most likely the tube that is connected between the EGR and the cylinder head is plugged, you can test to see if the EGR is working by starting the engine and pushing the diaphragm on the EGR open manually, the engine should run rough and almost stall. DO THIS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD SO YOU DON'T BURN YOUR FINGER! If it doesn't run rough the tube is most likely plugged SEA#3

paladin_w Ok Questions ? 1) how many miles on vehicle ? 2) was it raining out at the time of the missfire/ CEL light flashing ? 3) when was it last serviced and what was done ? SEA#3

tcspeer If you look close at the crank gear you will see a mark on one of the reluctor tags this should be align with the mark on the oil pump right buy the crank sensor. Aligning the crank pulley to TDC would be INCORRECT and possibly cause damage to the engine SEA#3

clamshell4 I checked the manual for a P1406 or P1407 and there is no code in the manual Hence the reading your mechanic is getting The manuals only cover North American vehicles(Im assuming your in N/A) The area that code falls under though is in the evaporator / fuel tank area of codes Has the vehicle ever been in an accident? If so where? (Front, back, side) Does it make a difference how full the gas tank is ? (frequency of trouble) SEA#3

clamshell4 You might want to look at your MAIN RELAY , this relay controls power to your ECM and to your fuel pump . From what you have decribed it may have a bad connection in it . So when you turn the car of and restart it the relay is triggered again and makes a beter contact than before , and it drives fine until the conact degrades . You say your mechanic has scan for codes but "it comes back with an undocumented code" . Can he not tell you what the code is ? It should come back with a PO.... or a P1.... if there is a fault in the system SEA#3

It shouldn't damage anything, but if there is too much oil in the system it will affect the cooling ability. The oil will tend to glob up and hinder the evaporator valves ability to do its job SEA#3