sea#3

The best one that i have used is this 02wrench ,This one is Snap-on but OTC also makes the same and there are knock offs of it out there The benifit of this one is it will get in there to get the 02 out without dropping the exhaust SEA#3

Get your charging system checked out the alternator is most likely not charging or on it's way SEA#3

doc2 show the valve body installed on the transmission and the location of the connectors for the harness to the appropriate solenoids and sensors SEA#3

This might help 1 doc is picture of the harness that goes through the side of the case ( The warning on damaging the harness is in the manual and is not dig) 2doc shows the harness connected to the valve body 3 doc shows the harness that goes from the case up towards the engine (T2) SEA#3

96 is hydraulic valve lash adjusters, 97 is mechanical valve lash adjusters (Adjustable) You will have to pull a valve cover to tell SEA#3

Does the noise go away when it warms up ? If it does it could be the timing belt tensioner , there is a TSB on them for your model year for this condition, If you rule that out it may be the dreaded piston slap The valves are mechanical and can be adjusted SEA#3

Pretty much the same ,just don't go past 180* See attached Sea#3

Yes all is good If you have all the marks on the belt lined up with the marks on the pulley , your good to go If you check the alingment after the belt is in service for a few 1000 k it will stretch a bit and be spot on SEA#3

Nope should be 2 one at 9 oclock one at 3 oclock SEA#3

Check to see if they put the dowels or should i say left the dowel in the engine that postion the trany on the engine ( See attached for location) Alot of times shops swap a trany and they don't realize they are stuck on the old trany bell housing If they are not put in the trany will not centre on the engine and put stress on the flex plate, causing it to crack Hope this helps SEA#3

Read the codes and see what you get (see attached) Hope this helps SEA#3

This might help (see attached) Looks like they are all the same for the 2.5's (97's) SEA#3

Read the codes and see what you get ( see attached) Hope this helps SEA#3

Try this http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf Yours will be different, this only goes back to 99 but it gives you an idea of what to do and what to use , you can also search the site http://endwrench.com/ Hope this helps SEA#3

I checked your ECM # and it doesn't designate whether it is Auto or Standard The only way to tell is with a VIN # (which I presume you don't have) What may be happening is that it might not be getting a input signal that it is in gear and stalling, Because of that you are getting a code as well Maybe Legacy 777 could get you the I/O for the ECM on the neutral switch or the PRNDL switch and see what you have SEA#3

Starter solenoid contacts are worn out You can replace the contacts or replace the starter SEA#3

This may help you . http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ Just a question 1) What was the ECM out of standard or automatic ? SEA#3

It is a heat sheild on the right side motor mount (only turbo models). It is placed on the bottom side of the mount , between the mount and the subframe SEA#3

Yes ,the fuel tank pressure sensor could set a code , It is right on top of the tank. Big job you have to drop the rear drive shaft/rear diff and then the tank SEA#3

Here is the info from the owners manual , but if that doesn't work you may have broken one of the calbes that drive the sun roof or the sun shade has jammed the sun roof Hope this helps SEA#3

Yes it has two dowels on the top outer bolt hole but it can be put on backwards. That been said if they are not OEM gaskets they maybe defective and yes at least you didn't install it and find out SEA#3

You have put the head gasket on incorrectly or you may have a 2.2 head gasket on there Pull it apart and find out SEA#3

Manuals say to pull the head lamp assembly. But if you want to try (because it's a bit tight) you can try and access it by going through the inner fender liner and reach up to the lamp socket Hope this helps SEA#3

Have you done the cylinder kill to check for rod /piston/main noises? If that doesn't change any thing, I still think it sound like the hydraulic valve lash adjuster Just a question, When you replaced the hydraulic valve lash adjuster did you run it and then remove the valve cover to check the adjusters? Or did you just pump them up by hand and then install them? When you pulled the rocker shaft off did you disassemble the towers from the shaft? The 2.2 is notorious for clogging the oil jet in the rocker shaft in the end rocker towers (Rear on the right head /Front on the left head) Also check the rocker itself, make sure the hole in the end of the rocker (by the hydraulic valve lash adjuster) is clear Hope this helps SEA#3

The wiring diagram that was missed last time SEA#3