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sea#3

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Everything posted by sea#3

  1. It is a seal that goes on the sparkplug tube ,you should replace all 4 . You should also replace the valve cover gaskets and the grommets under the valve cover bolts , since you have to pull the valve covers to do the job SEA#3
  2. 1) It is located in the valve body of the transmission(see attachment --#12) 2) checking continuity in the solenoid circuit when the solenoid is hot or when the light comes on 3)You have to drop the pan to replace(do this cold ) Hope this helps SEA#3
  3. Most likely it's the front 02 sensor(front A/F sensor) that is slow or "Lying "to the ECM , It is quite common on the 2000 my and up SEA#3
  4. [ATTACH]3926[/ATTACH]Check out the attachment . subaru has a fix SEA#3
  5. You have probably hydraulic one of the cylinders . When you replaced the injectors did you clamp off the fuel line to the injector rail? If you didn't the fuel in the rail and the fuel line will dump into the cylinder you pulled the injector out of and end in that cylinder. That cylinder comes up on compression and hydraulics , stopping rotation Pull the plugs and see if it will turn by hand ( like Subarian said) Just a word of caution , don't turn it over with the starter. It will spray fuel every where and may be ignited by the spark plug leads There is a possibility(low) that you could have bent a connecting rod , but you wont find out until you get it running Hope this helps SEA#3
  6. Rodney You are correct , earlier subaru alarm upgrades used the windsheild check My bad SEA#3
  7. 2 things you might want to check 1) timing mark alignment (especially the right cam pulley ) belt might have jumped a tooth which can throw that code 2) valve lash , clearance may have closed up ,your close on mileage when it's suppose to be check Hope this helps SEA#3
  8. To test it you lock the car with the remote and watch the security light on the dash it will flash at a constant for approximately 30 seconds then the pattern of the flashing should change to a double flash ,now the system is set and ready to test . Subaru says to hit the centre of the windshield to test the sensitivity , do this with some caution . As far as adjusting the sensitivity, this only can be adjusted by the use of a scan tool (Select monitor) Hope this helps SEA#3
  9. Yes it is a common problem . you have to replace thr inner door handle asembly . What happens is there is a plastic tag that breaks off for the return spring for the inner handle lever (chrome) . It is now resting on the lock button , so when you try to open the door the spring pushes the button to the lock position Hope that helps SEA#3
  10. Assuming this is a pre 95 Impreza with a/c 1.8l , the valve is for the idle up when the a/c is turned on . The knob on the top is adjustable As far as gluing it give it a try but there is a lot of heat and vibration and it bound to break again Hope that helps SEA#3
  11. The ABS motor relay is sticking on, it is located under the black cover that says "ABS " on top of the Hydraulic unit ,just remove the screw in the centre of the cover. There are 2 relays , the one closest to the front of the car is the one .You can get the part# off the relay Hope this helps SEA#3
  12. How many K on this car? Issue 1 Has the air flow meter recall been done ? Look for a blue paint mark on the top screw that holds the air flow meter in the air intake housing If it doesn't , get your vin and call the dealer and get them to check for any outstaning recalls If its a high miler the TPS may have a "dead spot" in it Issue 2 There are cables that adjust the vent door on both sides of the heater matrix . The one on the left does the vent mode and the one on the right does the hot/cold Try adjusting the cable up or down the holder on the side of the heater matrix untill it correspond with the selected level Hope that helps SEA#3
  13. To regain the correct rotor position you can take #1 sparkplug out and turn the motor over by hand with your finger over the plug hole you will start to feel the compression build . With the spare tire removed from the engine compartment you should see a rubber plug at the 12.00 position at the bell housing of the transmission, remove it and you should see timing marks on the flywheel. Set the flywheel to the 0" mark ,find the #1 lead and follow it back to the distributor , mark the outside of the distributor housing at the #1 position . Pull the cap off and have a look , if it's not lined up pull the distributor out and adjust the rotor to the mark . Now the two bolts that hold the ditributor in should have marks where the original position was ,align those up an d tighten After all this you should reset the timing with a timing light Here is a link for the firing order http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/59/9c/0900823d801c599c.jsp Temp sensor can cause your start problem aswell as the engine harness can have broken wires in it Hope this helps SEA#3
  14. The USMB is the correct sequence NO you will not damage the gasket when you back off the head bolts , this is the proper procedure to seat the gasket properly when done in the iniatial torue procedure You do not have to retorque the head bolts after the engine has been put into service SEA#3
  15. Model.year and engine type might help if you want correct information SEA#3
  16. As i uderstand it the two remotes are not compatable with each other systems and you will have to get the proper code alarm style remote . This site has the instruction to program both as well as the year and model ranges http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine SEA#3
  17. Click on ths link , it will give you the factory fix http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/Subaru_Service_Bulletins/1996/ SEA#3
  18. They should have a look at the canister purge control solenoid , it maybe sticking open and allow the vapors from the carbon canister to enter the manifold when they shouldn't SEA#3
  19. I think you might have a clearance problem . The pistons are different on the DOHC to the SOHC - recess and valve relief SEA#3
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