cnc

Found the earlier thread. It's at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125903-thinking-about-how-to-install-a-hatch-release-loyale/?hl=%2Brear+%2Brelease Short answer; a cord or rod can be added somewhere running vertically that pops through the plastic somewhere. Going to try it soon. Will report back. cnc

That's pretty high-tech, Ferp. Like it. Bet it didn't cost much, either.

That sounds workable. Just poke a little hole in the plastic to dangle a paracord out and make a loop or something to pull on. Probably want to add a handle of some sort to push the door open and pull back closed, too. I'd swear that someone had a thread about this on USMB but I cannot find it. Thanks, CNC

After sleeping in the back of my '92 Loyale a couple of times, I want to add a lever or something so I can open the back end from inside. I thought I remembered a mod for that on USMB but cannot find it. A lever or a pull cord or something would be great. Maybe a handle to close it again from inside. Any ideas? cnc

Scoobie, Thanks. I did manage to get it put back in, but didn't grease anything. Sounds like a good idea to open it up again and do that. The window isn't setting quite right, so need to tweek it a bit, anyway. I think the glass is sitting up a bit too high and when I close the door, it catches on the upper rubber, but if I kinda push it inward as I shut it, it's fine. Or, I can shut it with the window down a bit and then roll it up afterwards. That kinda wedges it in tight.

I don't have one of those. Where do you find one?

This is not a windshield, rear window, or rear fixed window. It's the power door window behind the driver. There is no putty anywhere it, but thanks for chiming in anyway. I did manage to get it installed, but it's not sitting quite right. The trick I found was some stops needed to be loosened and slid out of the way. I wish there were some good instructions somewhere. I just had to try every conceivable thing.

Hi, Left rear passenger window blew to bits, just standing there. (wth?) Got replacement from the bone pile (Pick-n-Pull) but how the heck do you get it inserted back in there? Tried the usual jiggle-wiggle-pull-cuss approach with no results. There must be a sequence of things to do. ??? cnc

I might rig up a simple sensing circuit that has a single red LED in the dash that comes on and blinks only if the system voltage falls below some voltage, like 13V. That is above the 12.6V of a battery and less than the charging voltage. That would give ample warning to the driver that they need to do something.

Been struggling for 3 days to get a 98 Legacy Outback to charge. Apparent dead alternator, but not true after all. The battery light in the dash is wired in series with the L terminal of the alternator. The dash sends current through the light to the alternator to power it up. If the light is either burned out or not installed, the alternator will appear to be dead. Found that out the hard way. Took the dash into a Carquest to find replacement illumination bulbs. In the process of plucking bulbs out, examining them, and putting them back, the battery light got put somewhere else that isn't even used on this car. That means the ignition wiring now fails to send current to the alternator and it just sits there. 3 new alternators later, it charges great. An ammeter and voltmeter in the dash would be great. Or, just look at the battery light as you start the car to see that it lights temporarily in run but not start position. If it doesn't, the light's burned out and will fail to alert you if the alternator does actually fail. There are 2 terminals on the side of the alternator. One (the big fat white one) senses battery voltage, and the other (smaller black/white stripe) comes from the dash. Both have to be up at battery voltage to trigger the alternator to charge the battery through the big lug on top of the alternator. I could have diagnosed the problem, had I understood what the two terminals do, but all I had was the standard, useless manuals you get at the parts stores. Nothing in them that was very useful to me. Hope this info helps someone out there.

So if we beat the tar out of the pin, I'll need to replace it. Is a generic roll pin ok, or do I need a special, tapered pin from Subaru? If we get the pin out, but the CV won't come off willingly, can we use a bearing separator or some trick to get the CV assembly off of the differential? Thanks, cnc

I had a heating problem on my first Loyale and it was partly due to a knock-off thermostat and partly due (I think) to the fan shroud having been cut for ease of assembly. The fan shroud is there to keep up the fan efficiency by not letting air spill around the fan sideways. That shroud is in the way, and lots of people cut them so only the top 1/4 is on. There's a loss of cooling efficiency right there. The OEM thermostat has a long piece that assures it is sensing the coolant, and not an air bubble up there. If you have an air bubble, it will not conduct the heat to the bimetalic strip and not open it up when it should. Knock-off thermostats are shorter and sometimes, a bubble will fake it out. Also, are you sure your temp gauge is correct? It might be a bad sending unit that is falsly reporting a high temp. It's a few dollars. I'd just change it. Also, use a cheap infrared thermometer to measure the temp at the thermostat and see if it is what you expect, and if it diverges from the gauge in the dash. Good luck. cnc

Thanks, guys! Interesting that Subaru made a special tool for removing that pin. It is the inner pin, so the CV axle will not come out for us. My wrench was able to pound the inner pin out somewhat, and cut it off with a hack saw. That must mean it's fairly soft, so how about running a drill through it? To press the axle stub back through the bearing, how about a biggish gear puller? He said the back side of the backing plate was tapered and would just bend, anyway. It's sounding like the proper guy for this job would have a name like "Mongo" or similar, and drag his knuckles when he walks.

Y'all, I have a 92 Loyale and love it. One rear wheel bearing was making the ticking sound, so a friend offered to change them. The roll pin (I assume it's a roll pin) will not come out so that he can remove the CV axle, which he was trying to do because the end of the axle will not come out of the bearing. Looks kinda rusty. Probably the original one. Two questions: 1. How to you get a stuck pin out of the axle so we can remove it? He could beat it back and forth a bit, but not all the way out. 2. How do you get the axle to come out of the bearing? He tried a puller, but the forces got huge so he abandoned that attempt. We are expecting the other side to be just as much fun, too.Haven't seen it, but there's something in the wind.... cnc

Rats. Not the aswer I was looking for, but I appreciate the straight skinny. I am planning on yanking the engine out and resealing it soon, so that's an ideal time to do the tranny. I'm leary of a u-pullit, cuz it's an unknown. Are the bearings commonly available from bearing houses or is this a Subaru dealer thing? I'm not familiar with the gizzards of a Subaru tranny. Is the bearing replacement something I can do without spilling a gazillion little pieces onto the floor? Thanks, guys. cnc

I have a 92 Loyale with 5 speed tranny and if I go down a hill in 1st or 2nd gear, it will fall out of gear. The feel of the detents seems fine. Why would it do that? Maybe I don't wash/wax enough and it's mad at me..... It has 160k on it. Runs smoothly. No tranny noises. cnc

Is the resistor in series with the coil, going from +12V to the coil? The condenser would go in parallel with the coil, if I recall. What size resistor (ohms and wattage)?. I'd try to locate one from the same donor car, if possible. Thanks.

That's what I'm talkin' about....

Same reason some people ride horses instead of driving a car. It's funky.

Hi. Dunno exactly what I need, but what I want to do is have a spare distributor with points (not an electronic module) for a Loyale with an EA82 engine. From what I hear, that means I need a distributor from an earlier Suby, likely an EA71 2 wheel drive, because the spark advance vacuum gizmo is better suited than a 4wd version. Then I'll need to swap the drive gear off of a EA82 distributor so that the older distributor fits the gears right. Someone chime in if this is not correct, please. I fully expect to get worse mileage and less power, but I can fix it with a Leatherman and some duct tape if I have to. I just think it would be funky. Anyone have the parts available?

Anyone have one they'd part with? Thanks. CNC

Took it back to the shop and it works fine, now. Turned out to be bad wires and bad plugs, according to them. They were decent enough to not charge labor for the installation, but I still don't know how a vehicle can be working fine as it pulls into the shop and start missing as soon as we pull out of the shop and be attributed to wires/plugs that suddenly (??) go bad. It was in for sealing up leaks on the camshaft covers and oil pan. Don't the plugs need to come out to do that?

I've never checked one out. I can look for it in the manual. What will I be looking for, broken hoses, loose wires, bad connector, fuse? What should it be doing normally? Like I mentioned, the fast idle doesn't come on when you turn on the AC. Thanks.

Hi, I don't know the plug wire brand. Will look it up. More clues: Idle does not kick up when AC is turned on. It should. When engine misses, it's instantaneous, like an electrical problem, not a fuel starvation or over-fueling. Wires were not changed at the shop. Goot-n-tight at the central distributor. Fingers too fat to check at the plugs.

Good tips. I was told that if there is any misfires, that will turn on the check engine light. It has never come on. I will try the wd40. Are you sure that still works? I think they changed the propellant, cuz it no longer works in potato launchers. I'll check the wires. They were not changed out at that time. Is the crank angle sensor something that would have been messed with while changing the cam covers or oil pan?