cnc

Good questions and tips. The problem gets worse when it gets up to temp. If it's cold, it almost never exhibits this problem. We took it in with lots of fuel in it, and the problem started a few blocks down the road from the shop, with the same gas in it. The only thing that was worked on was resealing the cam carriers and the belly pan. Other things were no doubt removed and put back on, though. Everything looks like it is hooked back where it should be, in general. I started up the car tonight and wiggled every vacuum line I could find and got no change in the smooth idle at all. Runs like a top most of the time, but then goes nuts on the rough idle for a little while (minutes) and then straightens up and flies right again.

From time to time, it has a really rough idle, but then fixes itself as if by magic. No engine light. Checked intake vacuum and is 21. Watched gauge while wiggling all vacuum lines I could find and nothing changed. Was working fine before I took it into the shop, and immediately afterward, it started doing this. Suspected a cracked vacuum line, but can't find one. Shop was fixing the oil leaks on top of cam carriers and belly pan. Lines had to be removed while working, so maybe something went bad then? Mileage was and is still high 20's. Tried different gas, 2 tanks each. No change. Idle is so rough that other passengers comment on it, like "what's wrong with the engine?", then it fixes itself.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/popcorn1.gif Ideas?

I recommend also replacing the front and rear main seals while you have it out on the kitchen table. cnc

Hooking the green connectors together smoothed it right out and I moved the timing a little. Now to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). I'll try to read the codes. Tried it before, but conflicting instructions stopped me. I don't think I have much of a vacuum leak, because all of the defrost/heat/bi-level controls work fine. I could check the vacuum. What should I see at idle? Thanks very much for the help. cnc

Thanks! I will 1: plug the greens together and check timing with light set to 0 degrees. I'll look for the 20 degree mark. 2: I'll look for that potentially unhooked vacuum line between the passenger strut and the engine. I'll also check vacuum there, as well. May be a clue. 3:I'll look for MAF (Mass Air Flow??) cleaner and hose it down. 4:I'll check the vent controls. I think they were working fine. 5: Fix the Check-Engine light with some duct tape over it. It's been on for a year or two.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif Word on the street is that the light comes on for no good reason, usually. cnc

No, I don't have the green connectors connected. Frankly, I am not sure how to use those. The reason for the confusion is that I have asked several Subaru gurus how to read the codes and every single one of them gives me a different answer. Plus, the book and the gurus differ on where the plugs are. Hence, they just sit there unplugged. Should I plug something in before trying to time it? I installed brand new Gates timing belts, too. They are adjusted tight. The timing light flashes are very easy to read once the rpm's are raised a little. It's just at 700 rpm idle that it bounces all around. I appreciate the help. cnc

So how hard can it be to time one of these things, anyway? I warmed it up, idle was at 720rpm, grabbed the light, and the painted mark I put on 20 degrees BTDC was jumping all over. New HG job, wires, dist cap are a year old, plugs are brand new. Increase the rpm and the timing light smooths out. Mpg is down to 28.3 from 31 on the road since new HG job. Vacuum leak or something, maybe?

Hawt dayum! What a relief! I really didn't want to yank the whole shebang apart. Again. This was the third time I've done the engine. I swore that next time, I'd just use velcro and zip ties to hold it in, to make it faster to pop out again.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/perplexed.gif

I'd try ebay. I found a factory replacement radio for an Accord for about $10 or so and it's been working great for several years. Just do a specific search for your car radio and I'll bet you find it. cnc

Yes, it uses the tow loops at the rear and forward-going bars snug up to the frame. I honestly don't remember what model it came off of, but the guy I got it from, Scott in Bellingham, said it would work on our 98 Legacy Outback. Looks like I'll need to make up some brackettry to hold the canister off to the side somehow. Otherwise, looks like things line up. Hope so.

Yes, it is designed as a door lock/unlocker but a crafty person would use it to yank or push on the latch to open the door. You could also use your new button to not only yank open the latch, but also to simultaneously energize the power unlock feature that already exists there. You would need two diodes so that you do not backfeed the rest of the system. Diodes are 25 cents. 1N4001 or similar. Just like a battery isolator, only smaller. All that aside, I think the cable with a ring on the end fished out of a hole in the panel is the best/easiest/fastest/cheapest solution.

Here is a $5.50 solution: It is a door lock actuator that can either push or pull 3/4". See http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/1.html Runs on 12v and is made for car door locking. cnc

I have chosen to use the PermaTorque head gaskets 9392PT. The oil passage in the gasket normally uses a rubber o-ring to seal it. However, there is a metal ring, looks exactly like a miniature fire ring, right there. Is that designed to eliminate the need for that o-ring? Thanks. cnc

Yo, I confirmed that the rectangular canister is indeed, smack in the way. I can certainly remove it, but it is still in the way. It will have to be bypassed or moved somewhere. The hitch is from a 98 Forester. The part that is being blocked is the passenger side forward support that wants to snug up to the frame, but the canister is in the way. I'll see if etrailer has any input. If anyone here has ideas, please let me know. Thanks. cnc

Thanks, guys. I think it is just sitting squat in the way, right where the mounting bolt goes. I will look again. Cnc

Emerald City Auto Glass or similar name. Located sorta by Seattle. Changed my 93 Loyale windshield for $150 out the door. Came to my place to do it. Great job. The trim around the windshield was shot and he couldn't get one, but he faked it with some generic rubber and it looks perfect. PM me if you can't find him. May have a card somewhere. cnc

I wasn't paying attention when reassembling the engine and got the heads reversed. Not wanting to redo it, I made a plug piece on the lathe to block the EGR hole, using the existing flare nut. I just ran the car with heads reversed and no EGR and there was no apparent problem. Got 30+ mpg on hiway. cnc

Hi, We have a 98 Legacy Outback and I got a hitch for it that came off of a 97 Outback that was supposed to fit, but doesn't. There is some box in the way on the passenger side. The book says it's a filter to pull fumes out of the fuel tank. It's sitting right where one of the hitch mounts goes. Can I move it? It's a rectangular box, about the size of a Kleenex box. Can it go somewhere else and not muck up the whole system? Thanks. cnc

I dunno about blocking off the water passage. It must be there for a reason. I'm guessing the water heat helps. As for the Victor gasket, I really don't know who made it. I do know that Victor is where Carquest currently gets those gaskets. Also, that intake manifold spans a long distance and I'm surprised that the mating surfaces are anywhere parallel, a foot or more away. In fact, mine aren't. Close enough that a beefy-thick gasket will be compliant enough to seal it just fine. Paper thin doesn't work, though.

I got bargain basement brand gasket set about 25k miles ago. Didn't realize I needed to check the head for flatness. Will do so, this time. Also, the intake gaskets were paper thin. Got a beefy-thick set from Carquest. Know how I figured out it was leaking?? Well, I bolted the intake down, torqued the bolts and everything. Left the spark plugs out for initial testing. Filled radiator with water. Turned it over and shot water onto ceiling through spark plug hole. Huh?? Well, turns out the intake manifold on SPFI has a water passage to heat it up or something. Well, at the ends of the manifold, the gasket has to keep the two channels (air and coolant) separated. Not seating down flat, they communicated just fine. Water poured into at least one cylinder and shot out the hole. Imagine my surprise....

I think the local Carquest sells Victor. Same outfit?

I am reading several comments that this is the best head gasket. I put a cheap on on and it lasted 25K miles. Now I want a good one. What is the best head gasket, and where do I get a pair? Thanks. CNC

1993 Loyale w/EA82 SPFI. Normally starts instantly and runs very well. Twice recently it has failed to start. Starter cranks over well, everything sounds fine, except it doesn't even try to run. If I squirt some ether (yeah, I know....) in there and hit the starter, it fires up almost instantly. After that, it runs great. Acts as if the SPFI isn't spraying fuel into the venturi, to me. Ideas? Thanks, y'all. cnc

Pulling the motor took my friend and I 2 hours, the first time. 1 hour, the second time. It's so easy, that I can't imagine why anyone wouldn't just yank it out to work on it. cnc

I have a 93 Loyale and proudly pulled a big Jeep Grand Cherokee up an icy hill the other day. I'm hooked! Question: The older Subarus were selectable 4WD, with full time front and part time rear, if you pushed the button. Works great. Easy to use. No problem. The newer Subarus seem to be AWD, which sounds easier (I suppose.....) but everyone I know with one says they aren't getting nearly the 30-31 mpg I get with my old one. Is it the AWD vs. 4WD or is it the new smog stuff, or both? cnc