99obw

I agree, the salt here is crazy! Our 99 is starting to show a few bubbles.

I have done this swap as well(not to our car). It can be done using the vapor canister in the rear with only mild futzing with the vacuum lines.

Any Phase I engine that you pick up used is going to be questionable, unless it has been properly rebuilt. Even if you do pick up a good low mileage engine, you should probably put head gaskets and the related stuff in it. That will probably put you up to the $1000 - $1500 range. I have had good luck with junkyard engines, but the Phase I is an engine that I wouldn't trust coming from a junkyard, or anywhere but a reputable rebuilder for that matter. Have you considered doing the '95 EJ22 swap? I wouldn't consider it with an auto trans, but with a manual it has enough oomph.

We have a jeep and a suby, and I can say with certainty that I have had the jeep in places that the suby can't go. With that said, the suby is a much safer vehicle, and much more capable up to the limits imposed by ground clearance and the non-locking style AWD, beyond which the jeep prevails. If it's slippery I want to drive the suby, and if it's dry I want to drive the Jetta. Hmm, why did we buy the jeep again? PS: Studded Nokian's rock!!

Yes, just be very careful to mark everything to make sure it goes back into the same place. I found that some thick assembly lube was very helpful to hold things in place while replacing the caps and bolts. Pulloff and I did that on the EJ22 that we put in his 99 when we did the head gaskets. I can't think of a reason that won't work on the EJ25.

The last two steps of the torque sequence require turning the bolts by 90°. A breaker bar works nicely for this.

I just flushed the outback last weekend. I put the car up on ramps, drained as much as I could get out, then flushed the system with distilled water with the engine running until the water coming out runs clear (6-8 gallons). Then I drained all of the water I could get out of the system, then added half of the system capacity of full-strength coolant and topped off with distilled water. I used a cooling system funnel and opened the radiator bleeder periodically to let air out. Works great every time. No need to fiddle with the upper radiator hose. Also, clean out the overflow and fill 2/3 full with 50/50 mix, a little air will be worked out of the system over the first few thermal cycles, so the level in the overflow will come down a bit.

You will need a 12-point 14mm socket for the head bolts. I used a short 1/2" drive socket, then a short extension. I torqued using my 1/2" torque wrench, then the final tightening was done with a breaker bar. 70k miles and counting.

I think he's talking about the one used on turbocharged engines, it mounts where the oil filter would normally go, and the oil filter then mounts to the bottom of it.

I have been getting this same code on the 99 outback. I have checked the purge solenoid, the PSSV solenoid, and the pressure sensor, all are ok. I think I'm going to replace the gas cap next and/or do a leakdown test on the evap system. I will keep you informed. EDIT: These might be helpful... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EvapEmission.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Evap.pdf

I can no longer say that we haven't had this code on the Outback. Yesterday I tested the purge solenoid and it was fine. I guess I need to start looking for leaks elsewhere in the system. bcstorm, did you ever get your problem resolved? If so, what was the cause?

Thank you, my stash is down to about 20 quarts. The outback will be getting a fresh shot of GC this weekend.

Sounds like the evap purge solenoid. EDIT: or EGR control solenoid if so equipped. Trace the vacuum lines, do they go to the backpressure transducer (flying saucer shaped thingy), or do they go to the metal fuel lines that run below the manifold. I am going from memory of EJ22 and Phase I EJ25, so I may be off.

Dang that factory seal was hard to remove!

Thanks for the helpful response. Do you think that Haks spit studs sooner than other makes of studded tire? How many miles can you put on a set before they start spitting studs? I can only remember having a studded tire spit studs after the tread was significantly worn, say 15k-20k miles.

My '92 Jetta diesel has a cat from the factory, as do many diesels currently sold in the US. EDIT: I don't however know how long the cat will live with the "smoke screw" turned up so far that I leave a cloud behind me each time I punch it off-boost.

Short answer: Because experience has taught me that they are well worth the extra $60. Long answer: I had a close call with four snow tires (no studs) on ice a couple of winters ago. I was only going about 30 MPH and started trying to stop about 1/4 mile before the stop sign. Never did get stopped, but I didn't crash, and I swore I'd never be without studs again. We get a fair amount of ice here, and when it's too cold for salt to work the snow-covered roads tend to get polished down to ice with enough traffic. We have worn out two sets of blizzaks, but overall I haven't been impressed with their performance and longevity. The cheap studded snows on my Jeep are impressive, but sloppy handling and suboptimal traction are "steering" me toward better tires for the Outback. Starting Nov 4th my wife will be commuting about 15 miles each way to Cornell amidst a bunch of out-of-state yahoos and I want her to have excellent traction.

I said in another thread that I was going to try the green diamonds, but after thinking some more, I'm hesitant to put retreads on an AWD vehicle, and I feel that the few extra dollars on Nokians will be money well spent. Has anyone had experience with Hakka 2's or Nordmans (Hakka 1's)? These will be getting studs. I can get the Nordmans for $440, Hakka 2's for $475. I have seen on the board where some others have had experience with Nokian tires, all comments are welcome. (except blizzaks, BTDTx2) PS: I like the tread pattern of the Nordmans better, seems like they would have better deep snow traction. The Outback is still the primary winter travel vehicle for our family, so safety is paramount.

I don't disagree, I just wanted to point out that calling HDEO's diesel oils isn't necessarily incorrect, though perhaps incomplete. IMHO HDEO's are formulated primarily for diesels, operation in gassers being secondary. Those high ash levels are going to make for a tough life for a cat in an oil-burning gasser. I wonder if the HDEO's will be reformulated to meet API SM, or just say the heck with it and stick with the current certifications.

Blitz nailed it. Warm climate a 15w-40 deezul earl would be best. Cheap, easy to find and robust. If you make a lot of short trips a 5w-40 will probably reduce wear and improve fuel economy. I currently use 5w-40 HDEO in all vehicles in the summer, the diesel will be parked during winter, and the gassers get 0w-30 in the winter. Subject to change without notice. :-p Oh, you mean like Mobil!? "Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 10W-30 and 15W-40 are extra high performance diesel engine oils that help extend engine life in the most severe on and off highway applications." http://www.mobildelvac.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_Super.asp

Here is the thread I was thinking of.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8171&highlight=p0400

I would start by checking the backpressure transducer. If you search the board you might find me saying something about when I had this problem on our '99. I can't take the time to explain right now, must run to a meeting.

Yes, they are retreads. They cost about the same as blizzaks. I don't care if they all look the same, but I do care that the circumference is the same. I have read nothing but rave reviews about them on other boards, so I figure I'll give them a try. The pilot plant in the USA for green diamonds is not far from our new home in central NY. We have worn out two sets of blizzaks now, and after all of those miles I have concluded that a blizzak is a jack of all trades, master of none. Snow traction is so-so, ice traction the same. Even a cheap set of studded snows will run circles around them, and cost less. I'm hoping the green diamonds are as good as studded snows without the noise. I won't be buying any more blizzaks, if the green diamonds don't work out we will use studded snows exclusively.

FWIW when I recently put new rear discs and pads on the outback I chose to finally replace both calipers with rebuilds from Advance Auto Parts. Very happy with the parts and the car has never stopped better. The original calipers were in very rough shape from road salt over the years, so I thought that rebuilding them might be a waste of time.

The outback will be getting a new set of greendiamonds this year. I have been wanting to try them and I have decided to finally do it. http://greendiamondtire.com/ The XJ will be running on the same cheap Akuret studded snows, they aren't great but they sure beat all-seasons and they were very cheap. The Jetta will be getting parked for the winter in a month or so.