Scoobywagon

I'd start with an SPFI swap. Don't block the grill, though. EA82s are very particular about their cooling. Lowering it and giving it some side skirts would probably do wonders

Ok...Coefficient of Drag (Cd) can be calculated as follows: Cd = (Fd) / (1/2*p*v^2*A) where Fd is the drag force applied to the vehicle, p is the mass density of the fluid in which the vehicle is operating (air is a fluid), v is speed of the vehicle relative to the air and A is the frontal area of the vehicle. Drag force is closely related, so the formula for that is nearly identical which makes solving them simultaneously a bit difficult. So I did a little searching. I managed to find a CdA specification for a 91 Legacy. That should be fairly close to GL wagon. That'll be 6.81 sqft. For the sake of simplicity we'll convert to metric. 6.81 sqft = .632 square meters. So we go back to the drag force equation. Fd = .5 * p * v^2 * CdA = .5 * p * v^2 * .632 The mass density of air at 70 degrees and sea level is 1.204 kg/m^2. Fd = .5 * 1.204 * v^2 *.632 Again, for simplicity, we'll assume that we've got no wind and no turbulence. We'll also assume that you are driving 60 mph. That converts to 26.8224 meters per second. Fd = .5 * 1.204 * 26.8224 *26.8224 * 0.632 = 273.721 Now we can convert that all back to get just the Cd. Cd = (273.721) / (.5 * 1.204 *26.8224 *26.8224 * A) A little more searching and the frontal area of an L-body car is 2.33 square meters. So... Cd = (273.721) / (.5 * 1.204 *26.8224 *26.8224 * 2.33) = 0.27 Probably not astoundingly accurate, but close enough.

The tubes can't rust as they are plastic.

Sorry, Rob. Didn't mean to short change you.

pull the a-pillar covers and the kick panels. They usually drain into the rear of the front wheel well, as Edrach said. However, there are some cars where they drain between the inner and outer fender panels ahead of the door hinges. You might also pull the headliner down a bit and disconnect the drain tube from the pan so you can use the blow gun more effectively. **WARNING** This procedure makes a NASTY mess on your garage floor!

The easiest way to do this is to go to a car stereo shop and have buy the vehicle harness for your car. That'll be Metra part number 70-8900. Also, you'll want to buy a dash kit for your car. They don't make a double din dash kit, so you'll have to modify one. This will be Metra part number 99-8900 or American International (AI) part number SB-K930. The AI part is the better one here. Then you will need a "repair harness" to connect the radio. You'll want Metra part number 71-8901. Now that you have your parts, you'll take the two wiring harnesses and match them up color for color. It is generally best to do this with both harnesses facing the same direction so that when you've put all the wires into butt connectors, the harness will have two plastic connectors on one end and a collection of butt connectors on the other end. Doing so will give you better connections at each wire and will also help save a little bit of space in the dash. Next, you'll need to cut out the opening in your dash kit. There will be a single din knockout. Then you'll have to cut the lower part to match. Just use the knockout as a pattern. I don't recall how the GL/Loyale stereos were mounted inside the dash. I think they were just a set of flat L brackets. Been a while since I was in one of those dashes. You may be able to simply transplant the brackets from your old stereo to the new one. However, I suspect you'll need to modify them or perhaps build some new brackets. Plug your harness into the car, then into the stereo. PLug in the antenna, mount the stereo, install the dash kit. Voila. All done.

There are only so many fluids at the rear end of the car. Gasoline, brake fluid, gear oil, moly grease, shock oil and washer fluid. Brake fluid is clear, but has a relatively high viscosity. Gear oil is a very dark colored fluid, usually dark green or black. Moly grease is really not a fluid and doesn't leak the same way as the others. It tends to get flung everywhere as the axle spins. Shock oil is usually clear or kind of light brown(?) and very oily. Washer fluid is usually blue, but it is available in some other colors, too.

I'm trying to work out what an ST1100 is aside from the Honda Motorcycle.

No, I haven't. On the other hand, there's no such thing as an 87 Loyale as far as I know. That didn't come out until 91.

ITs an 87 and that makes it an L body. I've never seen an L-body with auto belts. Not saying they don't exist. Just never seen one.

Best VIN decoder I've EVER run across is at http://www.vindecipher.com/gates/ Manufacturer Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. Make Subaru Model Year 1987 Model L Line Engine Series 4-Cyl. 1.8L Engine Capacity B4, 1.8L (1781 cc) SOHC - Turbo 110HP Fuel Type Gasoline Vehicle Type Passenger Car Drive Line Type 4WD GVWR Class Class B: 3,001-4,000Lbs Country Japan Assy. Plant Gunma Body Type 4 Door Wagon Restraint System Passive Belts; Active Belts

A 15x6 wagon wheel would be cool.

My worst shop accident was a few weeks back. Cleaning and organizing the garage. I needed to move the EA82 on the engine stand to another spot. Started pushing and shoving without paying any attention to the fact that the stand wasn't moving properly. Got it about half way across the garage and one of the wheels fell off the stand and the whole thing fell over. Missed my toes by not very much. That could have sucked BADLY. Fortunately, all I have to do is replace one cam cover and I should be good to go.

Really? I've never seen one. How does one go about building a sunroof that isn't a giant hole in the roof? Ok, ok...there's the skylight you can get in some Nissans and such, but that's a skylight, not a sunroof.

Open the sunroof. Drain any standing water in the tray. Pull the headliner down enough to work in there. disconnect the drain lines and insert the tip of an air gun. Blow all the schmutz out of the drain lines. Clean up nasty mess on garage floor. Problem solved.

Under and oversteer have to do with which end of the car has more grip. If the front end has more grip, the car will tend to oversteer. If the tail has more grip, the car will tend to understeer. frequently, "skittery" behavior is due to worn suspension parts. Worn suspension parts will change under/oversteer characteristics radically owing to sudden suspension angle changes due to slop in the various moving parts. Since your Legacy is FWD rather than AWD, converting to RWD will definitely change the overall balance of the car. You'll be adding a fair bit of weight to the rear of the car. However, I suspect this will not cure the skittish behavior you describe. I'd recommend checking all your suspension bushings, end links, ball joints, etc. first. If that all looks fine, then find about 100 lbs to throw in the trunk of the car and run around with that for a couple of days. See if that gets you more neutral responses from the car.

That looks like a darn fine way to really hurt yourself! Now, if only I lived in NZ...

Something else to consider here would be the state of your propane at the point of injection. Are you drawing liquid or vapor from the tank? If you are drawing liquid, then overall operating temp should be just a bit lower. Propane's peak flame temp is about 3614*F as compared to gasoline's 3591*F. However, it is possible for operating temps to be lower for a couple of reasons. First, if you're injecting the propane in liquid form, then the first thing its going to do when exposed to the high temp of a cylinder is flash back to a gas. Doing so also absorbs huge amounts of heat. This is one of the reasons why propane makes a pretty darn good refrigerant. The second reason for lower overall operating temperature would be because propane burns VERY quickly. The rapid burn rate limits the amount of heat absorbed by the cylinder walls and piston. Essentially, you get a big spike in cylinder temp, but the cylinder wall temps don't come up very much because the heat source goes away so quickly. That's why you can run your hand through the flame of a candle without being burned. Its not that your hand doesn't absorb any of the candle's heat, just that the limited exposure means heat absorption remains with in safe tolerances. Essentially, you get a higher peak temperature, but a lower duration. This also means the cooling system has a better chance of maintaining control of engine temps.

Welcome to the board! Doing that swap is pretty straight forward, but can be intimidating if you aren't at least a little mechanically inclined. But there's plenty of help and guidance to be had here. There's also a fair number of members from your neck of the woods. And, if there's enough beer and/or food involved, some of them might be enticed into coming out there to help you out with it.

Generally, you back the nut off with an impact gun and a strap wrench. Then you get out a 3-jaw and hope you don't break something.

For those who may be interested, I'm putting together a group buy for HID conversion kits. Normally, these things run $145 per kit for a basic set with regular ballasts and appropriate replacement bulbs. For most of us, that'll mean HID low beam and a compound Halogen high beam. If you want HID high and low with only the single bulb, there is a bixenon kit available that accomplishes this for you. That kit normally runs $180. For those with older cars with sealed beam headlights, I can get a glass replacement unit that will accept the HID bulbs, usually H4 type. Those generally run $98 per pair. I get price breaks in lots of 10, so the more the merrier there. Shipping is likely to run about $20 or so for UPS. I'd also be willing to combine orders to help save on some shipping where necessary.

You make a fine point, sir.

I'm not sure where some of this info comes from, but I've removed them with a press. YOu shouldn't have too many problems. Just order up the replacement parts from NAPA and go at it.

I've used Amsoil extensively in the past. EXCELLENT product. In a reasonably clean engine, it is not unreasonable to change the oil every 30k with filter changes and top-offs every 3k. The gear oil is also very good stuff. It is quite possible that this may be the last oil change those diffs ever get. Stuff lasts a long time, keeps temps down. Its spendy, but an extraordinarily high quality product.

NAPA part number 391. About $17 each. Currently in stock at the NAPA warehouse in Seattle. You need a press with appropriate dies to replace them. Fortunately, if you have a press and a more or less complete set of SAE sockets, you have everything you need.