Scoobywagon

I'm hoping someone in the Seattle-Tacoma area might have (or have access to) a tire machine and/or a blasting cabinet. I'm cleaning out my garage (again) and have a bunch of good condition wagon wheels with dead tires on them. I want to dismount the dead tires and blast the wheels clean. In exchange, I can make there be some combination of pizza, beer, social time and/or maybe some time on the pistol range I'm trying to build in my back yard. Yes, I live on a fair chunk of property. Any takers?

What I'm getting at is that I'll bet dollars against donuts that it ISN'T a factory system. Most factory systems don't have underdash valet switches or buttons. Additionally, most factory systems don't use add on sirens. They use the horn. Though I admit that it is possible to add a siren on to some factory systems. As for getting another "same type subaru remote", that may or may not work. Audiovox has made a number of remotes that look almost EXACTLY like a factory remote but, obviously, have Audiovox guts in them. In such a case, an ACTUAL subaru remote wouldn't work.

Overfilling will result in higher outlet temps because the refrigerant can no longer expand properly. Additionally, it will result in higher head temps at the compressor which can eventually lead to compressor failure. In extreme cases, it is possible to lock the compressor. A little over or a little under will not tend to matter overly much. As for pressure sensors, there are frequently 2 switches. One turns the compressor off for excessively low system pressure, the other turns it off for excessive high pressures. Come systems use a single switch for both conditions.

there isn't necessarily a valet button under the dash. depending on the system, there are lots of installers that don't put it in. Usually, valet mode disables the door triggers but retains any other triggers such as hood and trunk. You'll need to root around under the dash to find the brain of the unit you have. Identifying it means you'll know exactly what you have and that'll let you do things like find a manual for it and order remotes. You could also take the remote you have to a car stereo shop. They can frequently order new remotes by simply finding another of whatever you have. Then its just a matter of programming the new remote(s). Usually, when you buy new remotes, they come with programming instructions. No, you can't just buy some random remote. It doesn't work that way. It is possible that you can get remotes unlike the one you have that will still work. That's because most of these dealer option systems are just rebadged something else. DEI and Audiovox do that all the time, but DEI is just known for doing that. The nice thing about that is that DEI is really good about supporting their product. You can still buy replacements for every remote DEI has ever made. So, track down the brains of this unit. It is likely behind the driver's kick panel, but could also be up under the dash, attached to the main wiring harness up there.

There are a number of companies that produce "factory" alarm systems. Chief among them is audiovox. The remotes will have a factory logo on them, but they are NOT original equipment. The best thing to do is to locate the brain for the system and identify it. There should be a model number on the unit itself. google that model number and, with a little digging, you should be able to find appropriate programming instructions.

most of the R12 replacements are propane...plus some other stuff depending on formulation. But the basic component is usually propane.

2.4L boxer, huh? Oh well. I hope it works out for them. Good job on bringing another addict into the world.

The condenser core will mount in front of the radiator. In addition to the engine driven fan, there should be an electric fan mounted on the passenger side of the radiator. It has been a LONG time since I've been in any brat at all, so I'm not positive on the placement of the evaporator core. But, if I recall correctly, it should go inside the air box with the heater core. As far as the compressor, I've seen them mounted in a couple of places. They're always on top, of course, but I've seen them dead center above the crank, to the right of the alternator and even all the way out to the driver's side of the engine on some funky looking brackets. Essentially, mount it wherever you feel you can make it fit properly. This is going to be a bit spendy. It just isn't worth the money to buy used A/C parts. Buy new parts. It saves a lot of heartache. You'll need to have new hoses made as it is unlikely that any A/C hoses already in the car are particularly useful.

It is not necessary to do a retrofit for R134A. There are a number of R12 direct replacement refrigerants available. They are usually marketed as R12A with a variety of trade names. The one I'm familiar with is Duracool. R12A is usually really cheap and is formulated to work in an R12 system with no modifications. Stuff works really well.

Thanks, guys. Went looking through a couple of catalogs and can't even find good sets for imprezas earlier than 2002. *sigh* I hate this part.

Well...its time to face facts. My 93 Legacy wagon is coming up on 260k and, there's just no getting around it, the suspension bushings are all shot. A couple of them are even starting to spit out their little metal sleeves. I'd like to find something a bit harder than the OE bushings, but NOBODY seems to make upgrade bushings for the early legacy's. I'm wondering if I can use impreza bushings or perhaps bushings for a later legacy. Any thoughts?

I believe that was a friend of mine. You may expect awesomeness shortly, if so.

If you are looking for more Lumens (brighter lights), perhaps you should consider an HID upgrade. Just a thought.

You could hang a set of driving lights off your headlights by using a pair of relays. Source primary voltage directly from the battery. Obviously, don't forget to use a fuse. Connect this to pin 30 on your relays. Connect the positive lead from the light to pin 87A on the relay. Cut or cap pin 87 on the relay for safety. Use a high quality t-tap, such as a ScotchLok , to tap the headlight wire you're looking for (i.e. high beam or low beam wire). Connect this to pin 85. From pin 86, fish the wire back into the cabin. Add a switch and then ground the wire. This will let you run the driving lights off the headlights, but will also let you turn them off by denying ground to the relays whenever you want.

Zombie threads are known to be the precursor to the forthcoming Zombie Apocalypse. BRRRRAAAAAAAAAAIIIIIINNNNSSSSS!

That's extremely cool. Except that I have no idea which one(s) is(are) you.

Dear god, I LOVE that!

DO NOT use a screw driver. Its too easy to chew up the plastic. instead, use a panel popper tool and a bone tool to remove the panel and tweeter cover.

This is kind of a long shot, but I did have it happen to me. My car exhibited EXACTLY the same symptoms that you describe. It would drive fine for a while, and then buck like crazy and then die. Wait a few, try again, no problem. Wash, rinse, repeat. Drove me absolutely BATTY for a couple of weeks. Finally tracked it down to a bad electrical connection at the injector (SPFI car). I found that the injector itself was getting really hot. What I THINK was happening was that the coil in the injector was getting hot and drawing more and more current. Eventually, the output transistors in the ECU couldn't supply enough current to fire the injector and the car would die. Swapped the injector and the problem went away until the ECU died about 3-4 months later. LIke I said...kind of a long shot. I've never seen that before or since.

I just rolled past 249900 miles tonight. Since this will be the 5th Subaru that I've run past 250k, I though I'd take a bit of a victory lap, as it were, this coming Sunday. Mostly, I'm just planning to go out for a drive for the sake of taking a drive. Not sure where I'll go, but I'm kinda thinking that maybe I'll head down towards Olympia and then back home through Shelton. But I may also go north up to Port Angeles or something. Anyone care to come along? Maybe make a bit of a Subaru Cruise out of it?

The first place to check is with a Dealer. Having said that, its VERY likely that all of these soft parts have long since vacated the warehouses. So the next source is your local autoglass dealer. They may not have direct replacements, but they will likely have the correct materials on hand (or orderable) to make new ones for you.

FYI: Messing around with a vehicle's safety systems is a BIG no-no. By that I mean VERY large fines and (in some cases) jail time. no passenger car that I know of comes with an arm/disarm switch for the passenger airbag. I'll have to look up the regs again, but, as I recall, there are some very specific regulations that dictate NOT having that arm/disarm switch in a passenger car. Trucks, SUVs and vans are not passenger cars. That's why they are allowed to have that. Yay for the nanny-state

There is NO aftermarket radio that will allow continued use of the OE CD changer. If you hunt around, you may be able to find some adapters, but they usually don't work terribly well. Just know that. Retaining the tweeters is no problem at all. retaining the factory sub is a bit of a trick, but any competent stereo shop should be able to work it out for you.

Batteries are like any other electrical load. It doesn't matter how much amperage the source makes available, it will only draw so much current (amperage). Having said that, AGMs do tend to like a little more voltage than L-A batteries. Just don't push it much past 14.4v for very long.

It isn't hard to do. Just takes lots of time and patience to really do it right. It is something to do in warm temps. Make sure the paint is C L E A N. Apply lots of soapy water to both the paint and the graphic before you apply it. Use a squeegee to remove the soapy water and the vinyl's adhesive will stick to the very clean paint.