Scoobywagon

Yeah, it'll bite your leg off!

No, that does not mean you need to invite anyone named "Betty Bazongas" ! Just got my *new* 83 T-Wagon towed to the house. Its pretty trashed, but the engine and some other bits are still good. Pics can be found in this gallery: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=606 If you want something off of it, let me know. I'm planning on keeping the engine, probably the rear end and some assorted bits of hardware. Other than that, its all fair game. In a couple of weeks, I'm going to throw a stripping party. Bring your own beer, bring your own sawzall. :cool: We'll also be stripping down an 85 Jeep Wagoneer, so if there's something you (or a firend) might want off of that...bring 'em on down. I'll post a firm date when I get it put together. If there's something you want off it, but won't be here, let me know and I'll see what I can do. Anything left over will get sawzalled and hauled to the scrap heap.

ONly way you're getting your grubby little paws on my Subaru(s) is over my cold, dead...um...*****!!! So THERE! And MY DADDY CAN BEAT UP YOUR DADDY! INFINITY! I KNOW YOU ARE SO WHAT AM I?????

Sadly...yes...Thats a terrible waste of parts. I wonder if they'd be willing to part it out?

Tell ya what...next time I'm down that way, I'll let you know so we can hook up and I'll get you some good beer. How's that?

Awww....don't be hatin'! Mudrat, I'll take the buck in the form of store credit towards a lift for my 83.

Woot!

You can do anything with liberal application of the hot wrench. Question is...why would you want to? The Ford 9" is very strong, but also VERY inefficient. A subaru doesn't weigh enough to need that much strength, so you trade strength against efficiency. That's why Soob folks tend to run Nissan and Yota straight axles. Don't need anything heavier. If you are just dead set on running Ford gear, why not use a Ford rig in the first place? If you just want the Subaru body...maybe look at swapping a wagon body onto a Ranger frame?

That depends on how much tire you want. Realistically, the tallest tire you can fit is about a 29" tire. THose are available on both 14 and 15-inch wheels, but obviously the 14" wheel will give you more sidewall, something you really can't have too much of when off roading. Just adjust the suspension all the way up and swap in a set of 14" steel wheels from a Peugeot 505 station wagon.

Rear U-joint.

Dude, you are SOOOO wrong! He VERY CLEARLY needs new muffler bearings! Some new, genuine calfskin bivalve extruders wouldn't hurt, either. MAN! SOME people!

That's what you get for running Arco gas! Actually, I have learned a few interesting things about gas over the past year or so. First is that the refining process to make the base gasoline is the same for everyone, so they generally all keep their base fuels together in one big tank at the fuel farm. What differentiates one brand from another are the additives they use. Those additives are added in the truck just before delivery. There is ONE exception to this. Nobody will let Arco mix their base fuel in at the tank farm because the quality of their base stock is so much lower. They try to make up for this by using high levels of methanol. Its corrosive, so it cleans things, but it also eats up your valves and exhaust. (/HIJACK) Ok, I'm done hijacking. Glad you got your problem solved.

Well, I don't think its a sticky lifter. I don't think you develop enough oil pressure to fill the lifters when you are just cranking by hand. However, given the intermittent nature of the problem, it almost definitely will have something to do with valves. Now, having never seen the innards of an EA82, I have to say I'm making some big SWAGs, here. How would I troubleshoot it? I think I'd first pull the cam covers and watch the valves while hand cranking just to have a visual check that they either are or are not working properly. If the valves are going up and down as they are supposed to, then we need to make sure that they are traveling the full distance that they are supposed to and are therefore fully opening and closing. If you are getting proper lift and duration, then cams need to be re-timed. If the valves are moving up and down, but aren't achieving proper lift and duration, then I'd think you'd want to replace the cams and lifters. If the valves aren't moving like they are supposed to, then I'd check lifters and timing belts.

Abso-frickin'-lutely! Vanity plates rock, so long as they aren't just confusing! As an example, a friend of mine calls his car the "SubaRocket". He wanted to get vanity plates for his car, but unfortunately, "SUBARKT" just doesn't look like anything that the average person would get "SubaRocket" out of. OTOH, my father has a set "MFS10SE"...Memphis, Tennessee.... Get one only if it makes sense and doesn't look like a regular plate.

Ok...so I recently scored an 83 Turbo Wagon. Anyone care to guess how much I paid? (hint: not a fickin' thing! ) All I have to do is go pick it up. It was running before it got parked, has a 3AT with pushbutton 4x4. The "fluid" in the front diff looks like something I might keep either to add to my hall of shame or to maybe patch my roof. Guy says it ran great and made good boost but had no guts when he parked it. I suspect that it was all that poor engine could do just to turn that tranny! So...I'm trying to hook up with a buddy of mine to get that thing towed to my house so I can start tearing it down. The body is pretty beat up and it is missing the glass in the windshield and tailgate. Oh yeah...his 10-year-old cousin rolled it over playing rally driver in the back yard (100+ acres). So...my question is this...I know you EA82 guys like to put the Turbo top-end stuff on SPFI longblocks, but that you don't necessarily like to put it on a carbed block because the compression ratio is a bit high for the standard EFI system to deal with. Does this hold true with the EA81? Would I be able to run it if I put the EA81T goodies on my 83's bottom end, or would I be better off to just do a complete engine swap? If THAT's the case, then I'm thinking I'll wait until I get my hatchback....got some evil plans for a hatch!

Autozone, Checker (Schuck's) and Napa all carry it, most stores actually have it in stock.

The SVX feels very heavy. Partly, that's because it IS heavy. But it is also partly because there was never a 5-speed offered in it and the auto just seems to make the feeling of heaviness even worse because it tends to make you more disconnected from the car and the road. Having said that, they are an absolute BLAST to drive. The problem is that you have to REALLY run it hard to make it work and that just shortens the lifespan of the tranny as well as wheel bearings. Kelley says that a 92 SVX w/ 120k and in good condition should go for about $3950 in a private party sale in this market. Yours may be higher or lower, you probably want to check. I'd also make sure to get the VIN and run a carFax on it. However, assuming that it is EXACTLY what you have been led to believe, I'd probably open at about $2500 and let him talk me up to about $3500 or so. Point out that maintenance is harder and more expensive than on other Soobs and that this one is clearly in need of some maintenance. As someone else pointed out, this car is going to NEED a tranny soon and that's gonna set you back about $2000, possibly less if you do it all yourself. If it were me, I wouldn't spend more than $3500. I'd bank the rest to do a 5-speed swap (doesn't the STI have 6?) and put the car on a very strict bodyfat reduction program (I'm thinking Adkins, here).

Seen it done. Radiator rides nicely in a reclined position in the spare tire well. A moderate scoop feeds enough air to keep it cool.

Well, if I know Subaru's....that car will be with you for a while. Not only are they tough, but they get cranky after a while and then they refuse to die out of pure spite.

Bump See pics above!

Yeah...thats for a SET of muflers. I was looking at a set from a Valkyrie and another from some big Honda or other...$350 EACH for the Val and $400 for the Honda. Then there was the one from the Hyabusa....are you ready for this??? $700 for a MUFFLER!!!!

Nah, that wasn't the goal. Just wanted good flow as inexpensively as possible. Turns out that the mufflers for the Japanese bikes are WAAAAAAAY more expensive than parts from Harley (even comparing new apples to new apples). Seems to work pretty good...at least so far.

Tell you what....YOu send me some from Stewart's and I'll send you some from Farmer George's. I prefer peppered jerky, but if Stewart's doesn't have that, then we can just trade some of the regular stuff.

Well....the 83 has been in DIRE need of an exhaust transplant ever since I got it. The local muffler shop wanted nearly $300 for a complete system from the flange back. It all needed replacing, but I don't have 3 large sitting around. Managed to obtain 2 sets of harley mufflers from local Harley custom shops. One set has 2" inlets and outlets, but they aren't straight through. The others are 2" straight through bullet-tip style. For the daily driver, I went with the first set. I figured that the straight through type would work out better on my turbo car (in the works). Got it all put together today and my initial impressions are as follows. All measurements were taken using my S.O.P. chassis dynamometer. 1) throttle response is not as crisp as I had expected. 2) top end power is largely unaffected. 3) low end torque is somewhat improved. 4) overall smoothness is greatly improved, especially in the midrange 5) the sound is not as loud as I had kind of hoped, but it is throaty and mellow and fun to listen to. I'll know about any changed to mileage in the next couple of days. Pics to follow soon!

I don't think the concern is that the pump will burn up so much as the fact that it is in a bit of a vulnerable location and all it takes is one well placed rock to do in that fuel pump. I prefer beef jerky. Preferably the REAL stuff, not the junk that come in the flashy plastic bags.