Scoobywagon

This is why I was using two pumps. Then I wouldn't have to block off one side. On the other hand, if you wanted to go that route, you could simply use the DOJ cup, weld a fat bar to it, then weld the bar to the cross member. This is where the variable displacement hydraulic pumps come into play. Set to 0 displacement, they won't pump any fluid and, in that state, won't care a lick about continuous power being applied. Then again, those pumps are kinda spendy, so an air-actuated clutch pack would make for a really nice insurance policy. I guess with a set of air clutches between the tranny and the pumps, you'd just leave them disengaged under normal driving conditions. If you got stuck, you'd just apply air to the clutches and ease in some displacement on the pumps. You'd either have to play with the throttle or you'd have to devise some sort of governor to keep the RPM's up under load. hmmm.....

I've been mocking up such a beast. The system I'm working up uses two variable displacement hydraulic pumps, one on either side. Then I'd use a hydraulic motor to drive a winch and plumb in some connection points for jacks and such (porta-power anyone?). The problem I'm having is two-fold. First, that adds a LOT of weight, almost all of it in the front. Second, where in the heck am I gonna store all the fluid for this beast?

Believe me, I've beaten the snot out of more than one of these Belles. I'm using memphis' MC104. It'll be in about .5 cuft. Check it out here... http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?id=48

I'm totally with Samo on this one with the following addendum: Probably the BEST components you can buy right now, in terms of price/performance, is going to be Panasonic's lineup. If you want to go hard core, I'll throw in with Samo on all the brands that he listed. But if you just want a system that will sound good, last a while and offer plenty of features, Panasonic's head units are tough to beat right now. Their speakers are mediocre to good, but, again, hard to beat for the money. Not that it can't be done, mind you. My wife's Ranger is running a set of Diamond M3 6.5" separates in the doors, the factory 4" enclosures in the rear and the whole thing is run off of a Panasonic head unit. Can't remember the model number at the moment, but it was one of their better models from last year. Paid $130 for it (installed) and it plays CD's, CD-RW's, MP3's (from CD-ROM) and WMVs (also from CD-ROM), as well as offering connections for a 10-disc changer and Sirius Satellite radio. Its rated output is 50x4. I'm generally very skeptical of power output ratings on head units, but this one seems fairly accurate. Played a 60hz tone at max volume and got something like 46 watts out of it on a multimeter. LIke I said, I paid $130 for the head unit and $50 for the front speakers (got them off the clearance table at Magnolia). So for less than $200, my wife has a fairly nice system that performs extremely well in the small cab of her truck. In a larger vehicle, like a subaru, you'd want something with a bit more oomph in order for it to fill the vehicle with sound. If you want to go that route, I'd like to add another brand to Samo's list. Memphis Audio. Again with the bang for the buck. Memphis does not produce the cleanest audio gear I've ever heard, nor do they produce the loudest. What they have going for them is a great retail price and first rate quality control. They even offer a lifetime warranty on some of their equipment when it is installed by an authorized retailer. Tough to beat that (assuming that you aren't looking to spend a small fortune on audio gear). But like Samo said, an audio system is ENTIRELY about what appeals to your ear. After all, you are the one who is going ot have to listen to the system that you buy. Not me, not Samo, and not necessarily anyone else on this board. I know that I could throw statistics and measurements at you all day long and it sounds like Samo probably could, too. But that doesn't mean a thing if you don't like the way your system sounds. BUt just so you know, the system that I am going to install in my 83 (sooner or later....just gotta get some time together to do it) consists of a Panasonic head unit, Memphis 6.5" separates up front, Panasonic 5.25" coaxials in the back, a single memphis 10" sub and a Memphis MC-1300D (75x5 + 1100x1) to run the whole show. I"ve already got a good bit of money strapped into the thing for the equipment and I'll be doing the install myself, but its still expensive.

My local parts manager drives an STI that might have stayed stock for about 10 minutes after he bought it.

bump

Like baja said...only I've just been removing the nut entirely. Remove the nut, yank on the wheel...voila...steering wheel in your hands.

My 81 FSM is steadily losing its binding anyway. Been thinking about having it put in a binder to keep it usable. Once I get it done, I'll get it scanned and pdf'd. Gotta find some good OCR software, though.

3M's line of tints should stick, no problem. If it is a real concern, go with their high end products. That stuff will stick to just about anything but teflon. Any good stereo/tint shop should have it. If not, let me know and I can get you some.

Bump No real interest, eh?

I guess I'll just put it this way... if you have a list of equivalent part numbers (maybe you've found an obscure seal that Buick uses on their genuine calfskin bivalve extruders), drop me an email containing a description of the part, the OEM part number (if available) the manufacturer of the new part, the manufacturer's part number and the application for the newer part. If I find I need more, I'll let you know. I've got my own collection of data, which is pretty small, and I'm modeling this thing around that smallish collection. When I get it working, along with a nice web-ified application to make that info readable, I'll put it up on my website.

I'm a hard core computer geek during the day, so out of a need for a computer related project (and to make use of a really neat computer that my wife wanted me to throw out due to lack of use, I've started compiling a database of subaru part numbers and equivalents from other manufacturers. There really isn't much to it, yet, but the goal is to eventually have a reasonably complete database for Subaru parts interchangability, along with notes on the precise differences between parts (i.e. SAE hardware instead of Metric, required mods or fab work, etc.). Does this sound like something others would like to take part in/have access to?

I would advise you to change out anything made of rubber or cork. Hoses, belts, valve cover gaskets, front and rear main seals, oil pan gasket, clutch, every filter you can lay your hands on... You get the idea.

Try disconnecting the fan itself. Then disconnect the wire running to the thermoswitch. If you hear something click when you do that, then there's a relay that is being tripped. Now, just so I'm clear...if you disconnect the wire from the thermoswitch, do BOTH fans come on or just the one?

Well, as a point of reference, I got my 83 for free about 4-5 months ago. It had been sitting in a friends yard for nearly a year before that. All 4 CV boots were torn when i got the car and I'm just now getting around to replacing them... about 6000 miles later. They still work, but I've finally got both time and money.

Personally, I'd check out the wheel bearings. If they were replaced by the shop, then you've got one set with some wear on one side and a new set on the other. Theoretically, it shouldn't make a difference, but I've seen stranger things.

Not all 80's 4x4's have the hill holder. Neither of mine do, and I see no evidence that they ever did have it. I think it must have either been an option, or something that came with an option package of some sort. Both are GL wagons, but they aren't loaded. No AC, no PS, no power windows/mirrors, etc. What they DO have is the basic equipment with 4x4.

It occurs to me that if you are dead set on using a hydraulic e-brake and you have already converted to rear disks, then why not fab up a second set of mounts and add a second caliper to each side? You'd lose some cooling on the rotor and therefore would be more likely to warp it under heavy usage, but you'd be guaranteed to lock up the rears and ONLY the rears when you yank that handle. It also occurs that all_talk is exactly right. If you apply pressure to the rear calipers, you'd need a way to prevent that pressure from "walking" back up the main lines. Otherwise, 4wd or not, you'd lock up all 4 tires and probably break something, either the proportioning valve or the MC itself, when you grab the handle. A dual caliper system would be the best way, I think.

Saw one rolling around Port Orchard today. Anyone? Anyone? Bueler? Bueler?

OK..working on the 83. 268 kilomiles. I recently had to replace both fuel filters, the fuel pump, most of the rubber fuel lines, coil, cap, rotor and wires. Now I've got something odd happening. It only occurs under a fairly specific set of circumstances. I have to have been driving steady at about 3000rpm. Speed doesnt matter, apparently. Anyway, run the engine at 3000rpm for a while, then load it up without giving it more gas. It will pick up an occasional miss that will get worse if you don't do something. If you floor it, the car will cough onvce more, then the problem goes away. The other solution is to simply disengage the clutch, let it drop back to idle momentarily, then back off the clutch and you're off again. The plugs are a mis-matched set (1 champion, 2 delcos and an autolite. not my doing, but there it is) with some wear on them, but they didn't look bad when last I had them out. I'll probably change them as I should have when I did all that other stuff. Does anyone else have any ideas about other things I should chase down?

Tire rack. They carry the Kumho's in stock and your local tire shop should be able to mount and balance no problem. Of course, if you REALLY wanted to be enterprising about it, you could go to harbor freight and get your own tire balancer.

Don't know how it works in oregon, but here's how it works in WA... Property owner calls the state patrol. WSP sends an officer to "inspect" the vehicle, which translates to "get the VIN and plates". The WSP sends a notice to the last known owner of the vehicle who then has 30 days to respond. If there is no response, the WSP sends the title to the property owner who is now the vehicle owner and may do with it what he/she wishes. Costs something like $50 or so. Then all you have to do is figure out something with the key, but any decent locksmith can handle that and you can just bypass the ignition switch in the short term, if you want. I'd DEFINITELY go for it.

I think I just found your tire. I thought that tread pattern looked a little familiar. This is what I bought for my 81 http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?CatID=22&mainCatID=2 I think they even used the same pic.

There are LOTS of good wrecking yards around. I'd suggest going up the highway a bit to Belfair and using either Belfair Autowrecking or Airport Autowrecking 2 (the import yard next to the Bremerton raceway). I believe there's a Pull-A-Part down in Tacoma, too. If you want, I'll poke around in the two yards I mentioned and see what I can find. If there's something good, I'll let you know and we can meet up. I'll bring a flywheel down to you.

my question is this. IN the first pic, someone appears to be doing a motor swap out of their trunk. Is that REALLY part of the tread lightly program???