Scoobywagon

Type of wrenching: Shadetree What: Subaru's and Ford Diesels How long: Off and on for 20 years or so. Other skills: low-voltage electrical, data systems engineering, software development, dog training (sort of), troubleshooting.

A blown woofer will NOT cause an excessively bassy condition. Which audio system do you have in this car? Is the treble turned up? Does your car have the factory tweeters?

The only other thing I can think of is a block connector in the passenger's kick panel. There are a number of things that go through that connector, but its the ONLY place I can think of where both speakers on the same side come together electrically. Obviously, you'll want to make sure that the harness is installed properly.

You might wish to call a parts store. A new evap core isn't usually terribly expensive and is a known good part with a warranty.

As a rule, the only Subaru's with factory amps will be those with the MacIntosh audio system and those with the factory subwoofer.

There should be a couple of screws hidden at the bottom inside the opening for the ash tray. I think. Been a while since I was in one of these.

That's going to need a new core, unless you want to try to weld it. That's an iffy prospect. It'll be easier to simply replace the thing.

You almost certainly have a bad head unit. If it was a speaker problem, you'd have that distortion at all volume levels, though it would get progressively worse at higher levels. Try swapping the head unit and I suspect your problem will go away.

Best I can do on them is $215 for the kit, $35 for the handle. PLus shipping. I suspect you'd be better off buying locally because my distributor won't drop-ship.

According to Alldata, its behind the rear passenger side wheel. There are some LARGE hoses in and out of that thing. Make sure they aren't kinked or torn.

UNless the customer wants something more specific, we use the 250-3421. It looks a LOT like the cruise handle that GM used for centuries.

That's going to be a Rostra 250-1223 Universal Cruise kit. There are several options available for control stalks.

All I will say about it is this.... It has been my observation that, in the past, when I've replaced just the clutch, the compressor fails within 6 months. This is why we just don't do clutch only in my shop. In the end, its a waste of time and money.

Sounds to me like they were quoting you for all 4 plus e-brakes rather than just the front 2.

Not PVC pipe. I went and got PolyVinylChloride in a 1" thick sheet. I cut my link out of that. Tap Plastics usually has it in stock. So do a few other places whose names escape me at the moment.

Rattle can paint adds up quick. I shot my 93 legacy wagon in SEM flat black. Took about 12 cans or so to do it. ~$100 in paint, plus probably another $50 or so in primer. It's lasted about 2 years and I'm starting to have some flaking problems with it. I'm about to sand it down again and re-shoot it. This time it'll be with Nason Fast Dry equipment paint and some flattener. That's about $60/gallon including the hardener. The flattener is super expensive, but I'll end up needing MAYBE an ounce to do the whole car. So if you've got an air compressor and a paint gun, this is the method I'd recommend.

I just made mine out of 1" gray PVC stock. Cut it to the right size and shape it with a sander. Use a vice to press the steel sleeves into the holes you have to drill at each end. voila. A bit stiffer than stock. The other option (and significantly more expensive) is to use some allthread and a pair of Heim joints.

I manufactured a set of front end links for my 93 legacy wagon. Cost me less than $20 in materials. Took about 2-3 hours of my time to get everything just right.

I'm not certain, but I believe that the factory keyless was an option for that block of years. I don't think it became standard equipment until MY01. Not 100% on that. Subaru uses and add-on module for its keyless entry system. IF yours doesn't have it, then you could certainly get one out of a wrecking yard for pretty cheap. Around here, such things tend to go for between $20 and $50. INstall is pretty straightforward. Attach the block connectors, screw it down. Problem solved. If the yard doesn't have the remotes, they can generally be ordered from Subaru, but they're pricey. Aftermarket systems start off around $70 or so and climb from there. INstall is a bit harder because you can't use the really nice block connectors to wire it.

Here's my best professional advice. 1) DO NOT USE SILICONE! Ever. Its hydroscopic and will make any existing rust problems worse. Additionally, it may contaminate some of the surfaces needed to install a windshield and urethane will not stick to silicone. 2) Verify the leak. Windshields VERY seldom just come down with leaks. They either have leaked since install or there is some mode of paint or adhesive failure. Make sure that its the windshield leaking, not one of the door seals or the sunroof (if equipped). 3) If it IS the windshield, take it to a shop and have them do a reseal on it. Usually, this involves doing what is called a back bead on the glass. Essentially, you're laying down a second bead of urethane inside the original bead. **WARNING** This is ONLY a band-aid fix! This should only be done if you can't afford to have the windshield cut out and replaced. 4) Replace the windshield. As has been mentioned, if there is paint or adhesive failure causing the leak, then there is likely to be a bit of rust in there. There are some unscrupulous shops out there, so make sure that you ask to see the rust yourself unless you have some reason to trust that particular shop. As a rule, rust treatments are going to run somewhere between $75 - 100 at most glass shops and the car will need to sit there for 24 hours to cure. What MOST places will do in a case like that is grind out all the rust they can, clean everything up, coat the pinch weld in POR-15 (or other rust treatment, there are many), allow that time to cure, then scuff, activate and prime the pinch weld surface and install new glass. Be aware that cutting out urethane-set glass nearly ALWAYS results in a broken windshield. I've got 3 technicians working for me that do nothing but glass for 8 hours a day. They average just over 18 windshields per day among the 3 of them. In the years that I've been doing this, I have seen exactly 2 urethane windshields come out without breaking. Gasket set windshields are another story. So my advice is, have the windshield back beaded to stop the leak until you can afford to have the windshield replaced. If you have a reasonable deductible for your comprehensive insurance, you can probably talk the insurance company into covering it for you.

Get rid of the Clarion. They've had QC trouble on their tuner packs for centuries. If AM/FM performance is your big thing, then get a Kenwood. They make their money on professional 2-way radio systems. These people know a thing or two about making a radio work.

Found the problem. Got the car over to the dealership near me and talked them into plugging in the super-ultra-awesome Subaru Factory Scantool. Showed a miss-fire on #2. Went over it with a fine-tooth comb and found a couple of small cracks in the ceramic casing on that spark plug. Replaced it and voila...no more problem.

what was the ambient temperature? when you took those measurements?

Head gaskets were done less than 1000 miles ago. New plugs and wires, too. So far as it goes, that IS a tuneup on these engines.

2001 Forest, 166K, recent head gaskets. Car started stumbling pretty bad under load at part throttle. Checked fuel pressure and found 35lbs at idle. Alldata says I should see 43PSI at idle with an acceptable range of 41-47PSI. Swapped the fuel pump and pressure regulator. The car behaves a bit better than it did, but the problem hasn't gone away. I still see just under 40psi with the new regulator connected to vacuum. If I remove vacuum, fuel pressure comes up to about 46PSI. I did find that if I shift it manually and keep it wound up just a bit, the car runs just fine. WTFO?