soobenthusiast

Where did you get those wheels? I really like them. Also, is that a 2" lift?

I was able to get the ignition off doing this! Out of desperation I tried picking the filler door lock with a dental pick, and it somehow worked. I took off the lock until I find/make a key for it. I still need to find a clip for the lock cylinder.

All of this is on a 1983 GL wagon. The car came with two keys, one was quite worn, the other was not. I stuck the worn key in the ignition to unlock the column, which it did. The ignition is now stuck in the On position, the key will not move it in either direction. The worn key can also be pulled out, but the nice key will not go in. What should I do to get the ignition back to the Off position? Second, is the gas filler door supposed to unlock with the ignition key? I can't even get the ignition key to enter the keyway. Last of all, I also need one of the locking rings for the door lock cylinders. Any idea as to where could I find one of those?

I picked up a new project today. It's a 1983 GL Wagon, FWD 5-speed. The car had not moved in ~15 years, so getting it out was a challenge. I took 4 spare wheels with mounted tires, ended up only needed the front two. All 4 tires were flat and the wheels were an inch below the dirt; as a result 3 of the wheels have some pretty serious rust. My preferred choice would be to find a few more white 8 spoke wagon wheels. The vine on the antenna is a custom touch not often seen. Surprisingly, almost all of this tree sap washed right off. Also on the parts list is a left front turn signal, and left side mirror. The windshield is also cracked, but that can wait a while. The engine bay is just as dusty as I would expect for a car that sat in Western Oklahoma for this long. So far I just have one question - How does one open the locking door for the gas filler?

It was indeed the rotor!! I put it back in with a drop of loc-tite. The T-belts were the first thing I checked, quite easy since it now has no covers. Thanks for all the help! I definitely would not have checked the rotor screw first.

This is a 92 Loyale sedan, 5-speed FWD. The engine was recently out for a re-seal, it has since gone about 60 miles. It seemed to be running fine, although the CEL was on and it was missing a little at idle. Last night it died at a stoplight and won't restart. I have fuel to the throttle body and it still has spark. The car cranks over fine but acts like it's not getting any fuel. I pulled the codes, it has: 31 - Throttle Sensor or Circuit 11 - Crank Angle Sensor 14 - Fuel injector, abnormal output. What should I test/look at first?

I was up in Colorado Springs last week and saw a street-legal Subaru diesel. Gregoire Blachon was driving it, he also owns Boxeer, a Tennessee based company that imports the EE20's and transmissions. http://boxeer.com/ I believe he used a 1995 Impreza coupe as the starting point. It had Bosch ECU running a race map. Gregoire said he had some inquiries about using the EE20 as an aircraft motor, so he was running the Pikes Peak Hill Climb on Jet A to do some r&d.

I think they were Mohawk Sno-Belt Radials, I believe 165/60-13. It would seem that they were cheap because they are no longer made, one of them gave up within a few months. The other is now the spare.

After a couple years of mostly just driving the car, The motor is now out for a re-seal. I have an entire seal/gasket kit, what should I re-seal and what should I not bother with?

Have you tried getting your fasteners from Fastenal? I buy large piles of stuff from them for reasonable prices. The only drawback is that you must buy a full box/bag; but I still come out far ahead v. buying individually.

You got me wondering, so I looked it up. There are no laws about how many lights one can have, or whether they need to be covered. The only law is that only 4 lights can be on at a time. This is fine because the foglights are normally off. The driving lights in the center are wired to come on with the high-beams and have 100 watt bulbs, they make a HUGE difference at night.

kimgarden, sounds like a bad deal for you and your Suby, but it will all work out. While the Loyale was down for transmission work, some extra lighting found it's way onto the car.

I got a little behind on pics and such, so here's the last batch. I used Loctite 574 to seal the two halves together, because I had some left from a 914 motor project. This is the left side with the Loctite spread on it. Loctite 574 is an anaerobic sealer, it only hardens in tight clearances with a lack of oxygen. So there is no need to rush to assemble before it hardens; but whatever squishes out when the cases are torqued never dries, it just feels like orange grease. The tail-piece was sealed with Yamabond 5, another one of my favorite sealants. A spark plug with the hex part ground down worked perfectly as a clutch alignment tool. And while I was waiting on parts, some auxiliary lighting found it's way onto the car. As you can kind of see in some of the pictures, 5th gear was nicked up from the bad bearing, and not surprisingly there is now a quite noticeable whine in 5th. No big deal though, that was expected.

If I am correct that the bearing cup adjuster is the piece that the axle seal is in; the diff/stub axle bearing butts up against it. And it seems to screw in or out to set where the bearing race rides. These were never messed with, never even took them out. When we put it together we noticed that the stub axles have some play in them. Is it okay if they are a little loose? Would turning those adjusters in tighten them to where they are supposed to be?

Ended up only torquing the cases to 17 ft/lbs, that felt like plenty. How do I set the preload for the axles? Something like going two or three notches past where there's no play?

I believe there is a guy locally running propane or natural gas in an EJ car. I've never seen his setup, so I'm also quite interested to see how it's done. How does one convert a fuel injected car to lpg?

The dealer finally got all the parts in, so I drove to OKC and got them today. Excited about finally having parts, some progress was made. for those that care, here's the current Koyo P/N for the bearing. Subaru P/N 806223020. The ID is 23.5 mm, which is why Subaru dealers are pretty much the only ones with these bearings. As GD said, the plate in the rear comes in two sizes. the 5.00 mm plate is P/N 441347001, and the 5.13 mm plate is P/N 441347002. The input shaft seal is Subaru P/N 806722050. Here is the input shaft right after pressing on the bearing. I used a deep 15/16ths 12-point socket to press the bearing and 5th gear on. The nut on the back of the shaft has to be peened over to lock it in; (the dealer would probably tell you to buy a new one) I used a slightly thinner washer so I could peen a fresh section of the nut. This is a 27 mm nut. Cleaning parts and installing the axle seals. Next: clean case bolts and seal the cases together. What should I torque these to? I'm thinking 20 ft/lbs sounds about right...

This does lower performance, but I know some vehicles definitely get better mileage with a warm air intake. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warm_air_intake Plenty of stuff about them on ecomodder and high mpg sites as well.

I finally got parts ordered today! The bearing was the most difficult part, first I had to figure out what it was. I pulled the bearing off so I could read the part number and then used google and Fleck bearing to see if I could find one that matched. The only useful thing I found was this: http://www.regal-varna.com/stock/KOYO%20AUTO.pdf The second one down is the rear input shaft bearing; Koyo PN DAC2358NRC3. And only $30!! But they are in bulgaria. I ended up calling West coast Subaru dealers to figure out what I needed. To those of you in the Portland area, Eric at Wentworth Subaru is very helpful and seemed to know his stuff. As we are wanting to get these quickly he said it would be almost a week faster to have an OK dealer order it and just gave me the part numbers. In short, we should have the parts on Friday!

I spent most my time today sourcing parts, but I did get a little bit done. The pilot bearing was crunchy and no doubt contributed to the other problems, so I pushed a new one in today. Nice new bearing

Both of the dealers in OKC are having trouble finding parts, I pretty much have to already have the part numbers to be able to order from them. They said I could look at their diagrams, but that's an hours drive just to look at a picture and tell them what I need, and they can't email me the pictures either. Could some of you kind folks recommend your local dealers that are familiar with EA-82's? When we went to get shifter bushings for ours they looked like they'd never seen one before! Is there a place with parts diagrams for the transmission? Unfortunetely, both of the previously mentioned online parts places don't have what I need.

We just ordered the axle seals from O'reilly's. They sent us two pairs, and only one fit, perhaps the other was for a 4wd? One nice thing about O'reilly's is that they don't charge a restocking fee for ordering parts and then returning them. So just have them order all the seals that might fit, then take back the ones that don't. Or just go to a dealer if you have one locally.

That's very helpful, thanks again GD! I'll get some parts coming and update this as I go along.

I just wanted to add that our local dealer is painfully slow (2 weeks for shifter bushings); and the car really needs to be back on the road sooner than that. Is there a good online source of parts, or some other way to get parts in a reasonable time?

Thank you GD, that's exactly what I needed to know! It's also getting a new seal in the back where the shifter is. Does that input seal look like it's riding in the right spot? One other question: Unlike most 5-speeds this car has never had a spring detent from 3-4 to 1-2, just from 3-4 to 5-R has a spring detent. Where is the spring supposed to be for the 1-2 detent? Thank you Dirk, I'll try to get some more before I'm done; perhaps I can help add to the guide in the USRM.